Karaugom Glacier

Description of the ascent made by the MOS DSO "Trud" mountaineering group to the summit of Ullarga (4320 m) via the northwest counterforce.

REPORT on the ascent to Mt. Ullarg via the Northwest Buttress by a group of climbers MOS DSO "Trud" § 1. Geographical description of the area and sporting characteristics of the region The summit of Ullarg (4320 m) is located in a lateral spur of the main Caucasian ridge, beyond the peaks of Uilpata and Songuti-khokh. The peaks of Arcihevskogo and Oni-Ani follow after Ullarg. The Ullarg region is still poorly explored from the north. It is far from active camps, and there are no convenient approaches. The only relatively easy access is from the northeast, from the villages of Dunta and Komunta, along the Songuti-don river. The path from the villages of Dunta and Komunta is long and difficult to traverse. [^0] [^0]: www.alpfederation.ru To date, only one route to the summit of Ullarg from the north was laid by Yashnov's group in 1968. This route is classified as category 5B and passes through the right part of the northern wall. The central part of the wall and the very beautiful and interesting path along the northwest buttress remain unclimbed.

Ascent to Ucharg peak (4358 m) via the Eastern ridge, a combined route of 3B category of difficulty, duration 3 days.

Fig. 32 Ularg (4358 m) via the East Ridge (combined route by Mitchell, category III, Fig. 32). The path from the Tsейsky District base camp (group of 4–8 people) to the Artsyshevsky Peak with the initial bivouac at the Volginsky bivouac is described in route 142. From the Artsyshevsky Peak, descend along the snowy slope of the East Ridge (cornices) to under the Kvadratny Dzhandarm. Bypass the dzhandarm on the left along the destroyed, crumbly rocks. Behind it, exit into the couloir onto the col under the II dzhandarm and bypass it on the right with a traverse (20°) and along the snowy slope (with belay). Further along the sharp snowy ridge (cornices), approach the dzhandarm "Vilka", pass it in the center through the fork, and descend to the col of the East Ridge. From the col, ascend 100–120 m upwards along the narrow, sometimes steep snowy East Ridge or along its left side (cornices — piton belay). Along the heavily destroyed, simple, sometimes snow-covered rocks of the East Ridge or its left side, ascend to the summit of Ularg. From the Volginsky bivouac, it takes 5–6 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The duration of the route is 3 days.

A description of a technical 5B category climb to the summit of Uilpata (4646 m) via the South Ridge in the Caucasus.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — technical. Ascent area, ridge — CAUCASUS, Tsey ridge. Peak UILPATA, 4646 m, via the South ridge. Difficulty category — 5B. Length — 1409 m.

### Description of a new 5A category difficulty route to the summit of Uilpata (4649 m) via the 1st buttress of the South Ridge, with a detailed analysis of sections and technical features.

Ascent Record Technical category. Caucasus, Tsey Range. Uilpata (4649 m), via the 1st buttress of the South Ridge. Proposed category: 5A–5B, first ascent. Elevation gain: 1050 m; route length: 1640 m. Length of 5–6 category sections: 35 m. Average slope: 50° for the main part of the route, 45° for the entire route (from the bergschrund). Pitons used: rock pitons — 17 chocks — 29

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Uilpata via the North slope through the Second buttress of the South ridge, complexity category, duration 4 days.

Уилпата, 2-й к.с. По северо-западному контрфорсу Южного гребня, 55 From the Vilpata bivouacs (departure at 3:00–4:00 at night due to rockfall in the couloir) across the snowy plateau of the North Branch: Go around a long ridge descending to the North Branch to the right of the counterforts of the Vilpata South Ridge on the left. Turn right and ascend along a gentle snowy slope of a wide couloir between the bases of the counterforts of the South Ridge on the left and the long ridge on the right. Having passed the base of the Second counterfort of the South Ridge, turn left and approach the right side of a narrow snowy couloir between the Second and

Ascent to the summit of Bolshoy (Big) Yantatta via the North-Eastern Counterfort, category of complexity 5A.

TACTICAL PLAN FOR ASCENDING ULLPATA PEAK Via the 3rd Buttress of the South Ridge, Category 5A difficulty, July 14–15, 1983 (team under guidance) Legend Ascent route Descent route Alternative descent route in good snow conditions Objects on the Map Ullpata Peak: 4646 m (reached by 6:00) Ullpatinsky Pass

Ascent to the summit via the south ridge, route description, difficulty level, required skills, and equipment.

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Description of the 5A category difficulty route to the summit of Uilpata via the third buttress of the Yem ridge, with detailed information on challenging sections and passage features.

III. Uipata via the Third Buttress of the Yemnogogreben Ridge (combined route, category 5A) From Uilpatin sleeping sites (or from Khosinn) the movement goes in the direction of the confluence of two couloirs that skirt the Central Buttress, and further to the beginning of the Central Ridge (buttress). The entry onto the rocks is carried out in the lower part of a large internal angle, further movement goes vertically upwards through the internal angle for 40 m. Then - along a steep shelf to the right for 10 m, exit onto несложные скалы (easy rocks), along which you need to go up to the ridge of the buttress for 60 m. After exiting onto the ridge of the buttress, you need to overcome a wall 10 m high, at the top of which on a rocky shoulder there is a control cairn. Relatively complex sections at the stage up to the I control cairn: Vertical movement upwards through the internal angle (40 m) Overcoming a steep shelf to the right (10 m) Ascending easy rocks to the ridge of the buttress (60 m) Overcoming a wall (10 m) to the control cairn TRAVERSING to the right in the upper part of the vertical angle (internal) and exit to the wall to the I cairn.

First ascent description of the Uilpata-tau summit (4646 m) via the central ridge from the east, category 5B difficulty grade, with a detailed description of the route and technical challenges.

UKRAINIAN REPUBLICAN COUNCIL OF THE STUDENT SPORTS SOCIETY "BUREVESTNIK" FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF UILPATA-TAU VIA THE CENTRAL RIB FROM THE EAST, 5B category of difficulty (report) Caucasus, Tsey, July 26–28, 1968 I. Introduction Brief characteristics of the ascent area The summit of Uilpata-tau (4646 m) is located in close proximity to the Main Caucasian Range and towers above all other peaks in the Tsey region of the Caucasus. The Tsey mountain region is situated to the northeast of the Main Caucasian Range, encompassing peaks from Nokauk-sakh-zayne in the west to Mamison-Khokh in the east. The main peaks of the region — Fday-khokh, Zomag-taU, Ronketti, Mamison-Khokh, ChanchaKhi-Khokh, Uilpata-tau — are arranged in two "horseshoes" that divide the Tsey Glacier into two cirques: the South and North cirques. In the North cirque of the Tsey Glacier are located the peaks:

Description of a combined 5A category route to the summit of Willat via the northeast face, including technical details and potential hazards.

UILPATA via the North-Eastern Wall (combined route, category 5A difficulty) The ascent starts from the tourist center (KSP) of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac via the Uishatinsky glacier and the Southern and North-Western glaciers. From the Vorobyevsky overnight camps (protected from avalanches and rockfalls), cross the Vorobyev glacier and approach the wide snow-and-ice couloir of the North-Eastern wall. From the glacier, ascend via an avalanche gully, bergschrund, and ice-and-snow slope, then via smooth rocks (potential rockfall) to the wall on the left side of the couloir. From the couloir, move upwards via a steep ice gully (avalanches possible). From here: 20 m straight up via difficult smooth rocks with few holds (artificial handholds); 20 m via difficult rocks straight up under the ice formations on the right; then traverse left along rocky balconies; then ascend via a vertical inner corner to an ice ledge (avalanches possible);