Уилпата, 2-й к.с. По северо-западному контрфорсу Южного гребня, 55

From the Vilpata bivouacs (departure at 3:00–4:00 at night due to rockfall in the couloir) across the snowy plateau of the North Branch:

• Go around a long ridge descending to the North Branch to the right of the counterforts of the Vilpata South Ridge on the left.
• Turn right and ascend along a gentle snowy slope of a wide couloir between the bases of the counterforts of the South Ridge on the left and the long ridge on the right.
• Having passed the base of the Second counterfort of the South Ridge, turn left and approach the right side of a narrow snowy couloir between the Second and Third counterforts of the South Ridge.

Turn left here. Overcoming the bergschrund along a snow bridge, ascend 25 m along the rocks of the base of the Third counterfort on the right side of the couloir. Cross the couloir to the left (rockfall possible) and exit onto the rocky shelves on the right side of the Second counterfort of the South Ridge.

From here, traverse 80–100 m to the left and upwards along smoothed rocks of medium difficulty, shelves, and "battering rams" ("live" stones, rockfall possible).

Further:

• along a narrow, destroyed shelf, exit onto the shoulder of the Second counterfort of the South Ridge;
• turn right and move straight up 30 m along simple, steep, heavily destroyed rocks of the wide, steep Second counterfort;
• then, along the left side of the wide internal angle — couloir, approach the overhanging rocks.

Under the overhanging rocks, traverse 40 m to the right along rocks of medium difficulty to approach under a vertical chimney.

Along difficult rocks ("live" stones) of the 40-meter chimney, expanding in the middle part, ascend to a site along the right branch of the chimney (pulling up backpacks).

From the site, 40 m upwards along quartz rocks of medium difficulty to under the first "gendarme" of the Second counterfort. Bypass the "gendarme" on the left with a difficult 20 m traverse along smooth, steep monolithic slabs. Then upwards.

"Rusty" 8–10-meter ascent of the Second counterfort:

• bypass with a traverse on the left along steep, light-colored rocks,
• then 10 m upwards along smooth "battering rams",
• along steep rocks on the right side of the couloir — ascent to the ridge of the Second counterfort.

8–10 m above the exit to the counterfort, on the left of it, on a site — bivouac. From the Vilpata bivouacs — 10–12 hours.

From the site, ascend 100 m along the sharp ridge of the counterfort, bypassing a smooth wall on the right with a 2-meter descent along rocks of medium difficulty. Having overcome small, sharp "gendarmes" head-on, approach under a large, needle-shaped (II) "gendarme". Bypass the "gendarme" on the left with a 15 m traverse. Then descend 10–12 m to a rocky shelf and along it exit 30 m to a site on the bridge of the counterfort behind the needle-shaped "gendarme".

From the bridge, ascend 120 m along rocks of medium difficulty of the wide, concave second counterfort. Then cross to the right a narrow ice couloir and along rocks of medium difficulty of the wall, further along a chimney, exit under a vertical 30-meter internal angle. Along difficult, smooth rocks with an overhanging slab in the middle part (artificial protection), ascend to a wide rocky shelf with sites ("live" stones).

From here, traverse 100 m along a shelf on the left side of the large III "gendarme". Cross to the left a 5-meter ice couloir. Along its left side (rockfall possible in the couloir), first along difficult, then medium difficulty rocks, ascend 50 m under overhanging rocks. Bypass the overhanging rocks with a 10 m traverse on the right along shelves. Further along smooth rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the couloir, higher along the ice couloir, ascend to the wall, which is bypassed on the right along steep slabs. Along rocks of medium difficulty, alternating with shelves, chimneys, and snowy sections, ascend 200–250 m to the South Ridge. From the bivouac on the Second counterfort — 10–12 hours.

Further ascent along the South Ridge to the summit of Vilpata is described in route #104.

Descent along the Southwest Ridge (see route #103). The duration of the route is 4 days.