III. Uipata via the Third Buttress of the Yemnogogreben Ridge

(combined route, category 5A)

From Uilpatin sleeping sites (or from Khosinn) the movement goes in the direction of the confluence of two couloirs that skirt the Central Buttress, and further to the beginning of the Central Ridge (buttress).

The entry onto the rocks is carried out in the lower part of a large internal angle, further movement goes vertically upwards through the internal angle for 40 m. Then - along a steep shelf to the right for 10 m, exit onto несложные скалы (easy rocks), along which you need to go up to the ridge of the buttress for 60 m. After exiting onto the ridge of the buttress, you need to overcome a wall 10 m high, at the top of which on a rocky shoulder there is a control cairn.

Relatively complex sections at the stage up to the I control cairn:

• Vertical movement upwards through the internal angle (40 m)
• Overcoming a steep shelf to the right (10 m)
• Ascending easy rocks to the ridge of the buttress (60 m)
• Overcoming a wall (10 m) to the control cairn

TRAVERSING to the right in the upper part of the vertical angle (internal) and exit to the wall to the I cairn.

80 m traverse from the first control cairn along a simple talus shelf to a wall with good handholds. Simple climbing up the wall (60 m) leads to a small skerries shelf. Along the shelf 15 m to the left, and again climbing simple walls, interspersed with shelves (60 m), leads to the next shoulder of the buttress, on which the second control cairn is located.

A relatively complex section at this stage: a 4 m high wall immediately before the exit to the II control cairn.

From the II control cairn, the buttress forms a 15 m wall with small handholds, the passage of which requires careful climbing with piton belay. At the top of the wall - a convenient point for receiving backpacks.

The ridge is traversed 2-3 m below the highest point and after 40 m leads to the III control cairn. A note is in a tin can hanging on a hook. There is a convenient place for setting up 2 tents.

The most difficult place on the stage from II to III control cairn and the entire route: a 15 m wall after the II cairn.

From the II control cairn, from the left side of the ridge, along simple shelves, traverse for 60 m. Then again exit onto the ridge along a simple 45° wall for 30 m. On the ridge again there is a place for overnight stays.

From the ridge, bypassing a gendarme on the right side along an inclined shelf downwards for 60 m. From the shelf, traverse along the rocks for another 30 m, then upwards along несложные скалы (easy rocks) exit onto the ridge in 100 m. Along the ridge on foot to the base of a snow-ice couloir for 150 m. Along the couloir along the edge of the rocks upwards for 200 m.

Sites for overnight stays. From the sites, 1 hour's walk to the summit along talus rocks and snowy ridges.

Descent to the south via route 2Б category of difficulty.