Karaugom Glacier

Ascent to the summit of Everest via the Southeast Ridge from the Khumbu Glacier, a classic route for experienced climbers.

SON-GUTI UP THE RIGHT BUTTRESS OF THE EASTERN WALL, 5A R1: 300 m, diff. cat. 2 R2: 60 m, diff. cat. 1 R3: 500 m, diff. cat. 2+ R4: 25 m, diff. cat. 2 R5: 80 m, diff. cat. 4 R6: 200 m, diff. cat. 5 R7: 100 m, diff. cat. 5

**"Corysy 5A" Route** - a detailed overview of a challenging mountaineering ascent, including its classification and key details.

Coreype 5A

Ascent of Songuti via the right buttress of the East wall, category 5A difficulty, with a detailed description of the route and recommendations for climbers.

Songuti via the right buttress of the East face 5A cat. diff. From the "Volginskaya overnight stay" in the direction of the buttress, which descends lowest onto the plateau from the Songuti massif. The ascent to the Songuti wall is made along the ridge of the buttress, bypassing individual sections on the left. Rocks of medium difficulty. Along the rocks (300 m) to a wide snow-ice shelf at the base of the wall. Along the shelf left-down into the couloir. Up the couloir (50–60 m) to a small indentation on the right, at the beginning of the wall. From the indentation, ascend straight up the vertical wall (rocks are smooth, few ledges, rockfall hazard on the left!). Landmark: to the left of the wall, a narrow snow-ice couloir goes straight up to the shoulder of the buttress, turning into rocks in the upper part. Movement near the couloir is dangerous (rockfall, avalanches!). The path goes through the middle part of the wall along difficult rocks, requiring careful piton belay (150 m) to a small glaciated chimney. Along the chimney (20–25 m) to the ridge of the buttress. From the "Volginskaya overnight stay" to the ridge — 12–15 hours. Convenient sites. Control cairn. Overnight stay. From the overnight stay: left — up along the ridge (rocks of medium difficulty, protection via ledges) to a characteristic round stone (“balda”) like a "ram's forehead"; bypassing the stone on the left onto the snow slope, leading under the summit tower of Songuti;

### Ascent to Peak V. Sopryt via the Northwest Wall A detailed overview of a challenging climb, highlighting key moments and characteristics of the route.

V. Songuti via North-West wall, 4B

Description of a combined route, category 4B difficulty level, to the summit of Songuti via the Northwest wall starting from the initial bivouac on the West ridge.

(combined route, category 4B difficulty) The path from the KSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak. From the platforms, approach the Northwestern wall of Songuti peak via the Eastern branch of the Karaugom plateau (beware of hidden crevasses). From the plateau, cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend a steep 150–200-meter snowslope to rocky outcrops in the direction of the saddle between the summit pinnacles of Songuti (avalanche risk, rock and piton belay). Continue as follows: ascend snow-covered rocky outcrops of medium and above-medium difficulty, alternating with steep snowslopes (rockfall risk — piton belay) to the rocky ascent of the summit pinnacles. From here, ascend a steep, diagonal snowslope of the couloir 200 m up and to the right (piton belay). Then, ascend snow-covered rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty on the wall to the saddle between the pinnacles. Bivouac on the saddle platform. 10–14 hours from the initial bivouac. Continue with the ascent to Songuti peak. Descent via the ascent route or down the Southwestern ridge with rappels.

Ascending Khan-Tengri peak via the classic route on the border of Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and China.

SONGUTI UP THE LEFT BUTTRESS OF THE CENTRAL EDGE IV Zhand. SOUTH TOWER BLACK ZHANDARM MAL. ZHAND. R1, R2, R3+, R4, R5+, R6–R23, R25–R28

Description of the ascent route to the summit, including technical data and coordinates.

IV SW ridge III Route Sections: R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, R10, R11, R12, R13, R14, R15, R16, R17, R18, R19, R20, R21, R22, R23, R24, R25, R26, R27, R28, R29 Section Descriptions: 50 m 50° 3 20 m 60° 3 30 m 50° 3 40 m 50° 3

Ascent to Mount Everest via the South Col using the classic route from Lhotse.

[^0] [^0]: False summit Main summit "Black gendarme" Shelf II ridge connector I ridge connector Overhanging rock in couloir

Ascent to Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, route description, key difficulties, and climb specifics.

Report on the Ascent to the Summit of "Pik Ostry" (4050 m) via the North Face Route Category 5B Region: Pamir, Western Murghab, Severny Tanymas ridge. Peak: "Pik Ostry" (4050 m). Route: via the north face, category 5B (first ascent). Leader: Ivanov A.A. (CMS, 1st sports category). Participants: Petrov S.V. (1st sports category), Sidorov I.N. (CMS). Departure: August 15, 2023, 9:00. Return: August 16, 2023, 17:30. Total Time: 32 h 30 min.

Description of the 4B category route to the summit of Songuti via the left buttress and central edge of the eastern wall, including technical details and hazards along the way.

Route on the Left Buttress and Central Edge of the Eastern Wall of Sonuti “The route is combined, category 4B difficulty.” The path from the KSP of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac at the Volginsky nochyovki. From the Volginsky nochyovki, “depart at 3–4 am due to rockfall in the lower part of the route,” cross the snowy plateau of the Uilpatinsky glacier to the left and upwards towards the Left Buttress of the Eastern wall of Sonuti peak. To the left of the buttress, there are ice collapses at the top. From the plateau, after passing the bergschrund, ascend a steep snowy-ice slope “possible ice collapse” to the rocks of the Left Buttress. From here, straight up through 120 meters of simple, heavily destroyed, snow-covered rocks. Then, ascend 150 m through steep, moderately difficult, destroyed rocks of the Left Buttress to the first rocky islands in the right ice-snow couloir descending from the saddle with a small lake on the Southwest ridge from under the wall of the South tower of Sonuti. Further, traverse to the right “pitons for protection” through the ice-snow couloir “rockfall, avalanches,” then through moderately difficult rocks of the Left Edge of the Eastern wall of Sonuti. After passing a platform, through monolithic rocks, approach the second steep ice couloir and traverse to the right and upwards through this couloir “possible rockfall” to the rocks on the left side of the Central Edge of the Eastern wall. Through monolithic rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty on the left side of the Central Edge, ascend 150 m “pitons for protection” to a platform. From the Volginsky nochyovki, 6–8 hours. From the platform, 150 m through medium and above-medium difficulty rocks with numerous holds on the left side of the Central Edge “pitons for protection” upwards to a shoulder. From the shoulder, across a sharp snowy ridge, move left to the rocks on the right side of the Left Edge.