Karaugom Glacier

First ascent description of the Uilpata summit via the southern edge of the South-Western ridge (Caucasus, Tsey gorge), category 4B complexity.

CLIMBING ROUTE DOCUMENT Technical category. Caucasus, Tsey Valley. Uilpata peak via South edge of the South-West ridge. Proposed category 4B, combined, first ascent. Elevation gain 1000 m, length — 1400 m. Length of sections with category 5A — 40 m, 4B — 200 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (the edge itself) 55–60° (3700–4500). No pitons were left on the route. Climbing time — 22 hours, duration — 3 days, including 1 day for "sitting out" bad weather.

Ascent to Unlpata peak via new ridge and fourth buttress, category 4B.

V. Uilpata via the fourth buttress of the South ridge, category 4B Here is the original image: and here are the different crops of this image to help you see better, use these only as hints:

Detailed guide to a combined 4B category route to the summit of Uilpata via Kioi Iyurin spur, including a thorough breakdown of the path and expert recommendations.

Vilpata. The Fourth Spure of the South Ridge (combined route, cat. 4B) From Vilpata bivouacs (departure at 5:00) across the snowy plateau of the northern branch of the Tsey Glacier, cross the Vorobyev Glacier. At the base of the ridge descending to the northern branch to the right of the spurs of the South Ridge of Vilpata peak and to the left of the Vorobyev Glacier, turn right. Then ascend via a wide snowy couloir between the spurs of Vilpata on the left and a long ridge on the right framing the couloir. Here, turn left and exit onto the rocks on the right part of the spur. The entrance is via ledges going left-upwards. There are platforms under the wall. Bypass the wall on the right. Then, via moderately difficult rocks (200 m), exit onto a platform (cairn) under a vertical wall. About 3–4 hours from the bivouac. Bypass the wall on the left, behind it, and ascend to the fourth section. Via steep and moderately difficult monolithic sections, and broken rocks, reach under the second wall, which is bypassed via rocks above moderate difficulty on the right. Via steep and moderately difficult, broken rocks — to a platform under a "gendarme" with a black wall (at 16:00). Bypass the "gendarme" on the right. First, descend downwards for 15 m, then ascend upwards (60+30 m) with above-moderate difficulty. Then, via a couloir, exit onto rocks under the next wall. There are platforms for an overnight stay. Bypass the wall on the right and then via easy and moderately difficult rocks on the left side of the spur — ascent to the South Ridge, where the paths from R1–R3 converge (19:00). Convenient platform for an overnight stay. Then, via easy rocks under a "gendarme" of the South Ridge. Bypass the "gendarme" on the left. There was ice at the entrance. (Crampons necessary.) Then, via a 150–200-meter snowy ascent, exit onto the summit of Vilpata.

Climbing Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge from the Khumbu Glacier Camp. Route description, key points, and features.

UILPATA R13: 100 m, 45° snow, IV R12: 300 m — 45–60° — III–IV R11: School tour 40 m — IV–III R10:

Detailed description of the climbing route to Mount Uilpat with a comprehensive table of path characteristics.

UILPATA | Section | Length, m | Difficulty category of the section | Steepness, ° | |:-------:|:-----------------:|:------------------:|:-----------:| | R1 | 120–150 m | 2, 3 | | | R2 | 40–50 m | 4 | | | R3 | 150–200 m | 2, 3 | | | R4 | 240–260 m | 4, 5 | | | R5 | 15–20 m | 4 | | | R6 | 150–200 m | 3, 4 | | | R7 | 100–120 m | 3 | 45° |

Ascent to the summit via the southern spurs, detailing the route, technical difficulties, and required preparation.

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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Jean d'Arc in the Tata Piney massif in the Peruvian Andes, completed in 2015.

2015

Description of a combined route to the summit of Zhula-tau via the eastern wall, featuring a rocky ridge traverse, icy couloirs, and steep rock sections with piton protection.

Uipata-Hoh via East Face (Mixed route: category III) From Vorobievskaya bivouac, approach the first couloir of the eastern wall. Advance through the snow to beneath the couloir and turn into its right-hand branch, then exit onto a rocky ridge. The ridge consists of monoliths with ledges, on which there are many loose rocks. There are no particular difficulties traversing the ridge. Protection is possible using pitons and rock features. At the point on the ridge where the first cairn is located, the ridge turns left; however, you should continue right, crossing a steep icy couloir (1 rope with step-cutting) from the couloir onto a broad, sloping ledge that extends to the rocks. Further work on the rocks is of medium difficulty with good protection features and ledges. The landmark is a flat rock hanging overhead to the left; climb directly towards it, traversing one ledge all the way to the left and then straight up. The route is clearly visible due to the surrounding sheer walls.

Ascent to the summit via Betv Karagem glacier and Karayupmegergto col.

SOUTH-WEST NORTH RIDGE - SLOPE SONGUTI I NORTH-WEST EDGE EAST BRANCH OF KARAUGOM PLATEAU

Ascent to Mount Wilpatta via the South-West Ridge, route description, key points, and technical characteristics.

UILPATA Southwestern ridge Sonnguti pass 110 ㅍ North ridge-slope Northwestern edge Ukhalpatinsky pass 103.12