Fig. 28 119. Dubl pik Se­ver­ny (4516 m) via East slope (route is combined, G. Belikova, 3B cat. dif., fig. 28). The path from CSP of Tsey region (group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Severnaya branch of Tsey glacier opposite the col of Dubl pik is described in route 83. From the bivouac, descend to the center of the ice-snow slope descending from the col between the South and North summits of Dubl pik across the glacier plateau. A large snow cornice overhangs from the col.

From the overnight stay on the Tsейский glacier plateau below Mazа Dublyor peak, the route goes in the direction of the Northeast Ridge. Approach the ridge from its left side, through the bergschrund in the area of the avalanche gully, onto the snowy slope. Up the slope (40 m) to a rocky outcrop. Along the rocky outcrop on snow (120 m) to the right into the first couloir. Cross the second avalanche gully and on snow (60 m) to the rocks. On rocks of medium difficulty to the ridge beyond the first "gendarme". Traverse over the ridge to the shoulder — the first control cairn. From the cairn along the ridge, bypass a small "gendarme" on the left (possible to bypass on the right — 1 piton) to the wall. Up the wall (40 m, 80°). The wall rocks are heavily destroyed (rockfall hazard — piton belay). The wall initially traverses right and up (30 m), then straight up to the second large "gendarme". Further on the steep, crumbly ridge (120 m) to the wall. Up the wall (45–50 m) to the third "gendarme" (the wall of the "gendarme" has a large number of holds and "live" rocks, piton belay). From the "gendarme", descend along the snowy ridge, abutting the pre-summit wall. The steepness of the ridge is initially 25–30°, at the top up to 70° (belay via ice axe and ice screws). Along the ridge, initially keeping away from the cornice, then to the right (90 m), and then straight up under the rocks. The entire ridge is 250–300 m. Up the roc- (over 80 m) / to the pre-summit wall. Wall-

NORTH PEAK DOUBLE 5A

VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE SOUTH NORTH R15 R14 R13 R12

DUPLICATE NORTH PEAK B

VIA EAST RIDGE R15: 20 m 40° 3 RIDGE R14–R15: 80 m 80° 5 WALL R13–R14: 80 m 60° 4 RIDGE R12–R13: 150 m 70° 1 RIDGE, ICE R11–R12: 100 m 70° 4 RIDGE R10–R11: 60 m 30° 3 RIDGE R9–R10: 50 m 80° 5 WALL

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Dubl peak

In the southeastern corner of the Karaugom plateau and the southwestern corner of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier, at the beginning of the Tsey ridge, above the Tsey-Karaugom pass rise:

• South summit of Dubl peak (4516 m)
• North summit of Dubl peak (4516 m) between which a short ice-snow saddle passes. North of Dubl peak in the Tsey ridge stands a low peak Krasnoflotets. From both summits of Dubl peak to the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier and the Karaugom plateau descend steep rocky edges - walls, separated by wide ice-snow slopes. Dubl peak is well освоен by mountaineers.

117. Dubl peak South (4512 m) via Southwest counterforce, 2B cat. dif. (I. Antonovich, A. Zolotarev, August 4, 1933). Fig. 28. The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group 4-12 people) to the saddle of the Tsey-Karaugom pass with the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. On the pass, turn right and approach the ascent of the South summit of Dubl peak. Further, traverse left along the simple southern slope of the South summit, pass:

• the first South counterforce,
• followed by a snow couloir,

36. Dubl peak Yuzhny (combined route, 4A cat. dif.)

From the overnight site below Yuzhny Dubl peak rocks across the bergschrund 300 m up rightwards via broken rocks (250–300 m) to the first cairn near "Camel's Hump". Protection via rock projections. Traverse leftwards-up along a ledge, then up medium-difficulty rocks for 300 m to the second cairn (200 m). Protection via rock projections. From the second cairn

Technical Plan for Ascending Dubl'-pik Peak (4580 m) via the Eastern Ridge

Category of Difficulty: 3A category of difficulty (according to technical description) Peaks:

• Dubl'-pik Peak (4580 m) (southern)
• Dubl'-pik Peak (northern)
• Dubl'-pik Peak (N-2) (C) Route Sections (main, from "Dubl'-pik southern" peak):
• R0: 40 m II+ snow

122. South Dubl' Peak — North Peak (combined route by I. Antonovich, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the Tsey region's KSP (group of 4–8 people) to South Dubl' Peak is described in route 117. From South Dubl' Peak, descend along the ice-and-snow ridge, then down the slope to a wide saddle (with a corniche on the right). From the saddle, approach the base of North Peak's ascent. From the saddle, ascend a steep 70–80 m ice-and-snow slope in a couloir, then climb 25–30 m of moderately difficult rock (using piton insurance) to reach the Western ridge of North Peak. Here, turn right and follow the snow-covered, simple to moderately difficult rocks of the ridge to reach North Dubl' Peak. The journey from South Dubl' Peak takes about 1 hour. Descend via the ascent route or through the Karaugom Plateau (see routes 121, 63). The route duration is 3 days.
123. North Dubl' Peak — South Peak (combined route by M. Zvezdkin, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the Tsey region's KSP or the village of Dzanaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the Western ridge's platforms of Bivouachnaya Peak is described in route 83. From the platforms, traverse the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugom Plateau to approach (watch for hidden crevices) the steep ice-and-snow slope descending from the Tsey ridge's saddle (between North Dubl' Peak on the right and Krasnoflotets Peak on the left). From the plateau, to the left of North Dubl' Peak's western walls and ice fall:

• cross the snow bridge over the bergschrund;
• ascend the steep 400–500 m ice-and-snow slope (beware of avalanches; use piton insurance);
• reach the wide saddle of the ridge. On the saddle (with a corniche to the north), turn right. After crossing the bergschrund on a snow bridge, continue:

122. Dubl pik South — North (combined route by I. Antonovich, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the tourist service center (TSC) of the Tsey region (group of 4–8 people) to the South Dubl pik is described in route 117. From the South Dubl pik, descend along the ice-and-snow ridge, then along the slope to a wide saddle (with a corniche on the right). Along the saddle, approach the base of the North peak's ascent. Then:

• Ascend a steep 70–80-meter ice-and-snow slope in a couloir;
• Overcome 25–30-meter moderately difficult rocks (piton protection) to reach the West ridge of the North peak;
• On the ridge, turn right and traverse simple and moderately difficult snow-covered rocks to reach the North Dubl pik. Approximately 1 hour from the South Dubl pik. Descend via the ascent route or through the Karaugom plateau (see routes 121, 63). The route duration is 3 days.

123. Dubl pik North — South (combined route by M. Zvezdkin, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the TSC of the Tsey region or the village of Dzinaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the platforms, traverse the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugom plateau (closed crevices) to approach the steep ice-and-snow slope descending from the saddle of the Tsey ridge (between the North Dubl pik on the right and the Krasnoflotets peak on the left).