Karaugom Glacier

Description of the route to the summit of Wilpatta via the Northwest Ridge, highlighting key stages and safety measures.

The path from the Tsey district CSP or from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac on the sites of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak. From the bivouac (departure at 3:00–4:00 am due to avalanche danger), from the snow plateau (closed crevasses) bypass Bivouachnaya peak from the left (from the north), and behind it approach the North-west edge of Uilpata peak. From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund on a snow bridge, approach the rocks of the North-west edge along a steep ice-and-snow 100–120-meter slope. Up a steep ice slope on the right side of the rocks of the North-west edge 350–400 m straight up (pitons belay). Before the ice rise, exit left onto the rocks of the North-west edge. Up 40 m along the heavily destroyed rocks of medium difficulty of the edge to the rock rise, then up 40-meter rise with rocks of above medium difficulty («live» stones — pitons belay) — ascent to the talus sites. From the sites, along the rocks of medium difficulty of the edge, approach the wall, which is bypassed on the right along a steep 100-meter ice-and-snow slope (pitons belay). Then up a steep 200-meter ice-and-snow North-west edge (pitons belay) — ascent to the summit ridge and along it (cornices) — exit to the summit of Uilpata.

Ascent to the summit of Uilpata (4668 m) along the northern ridge-slope, category of complexity 4A, ice and rock terrain, duration of the route is 3 days.

Fig. 26 Uilpata (4668 m) via the North ridge-slope (route is ice-snow, V. Naumenko, category 4A, Fig. 26). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac at Vorobyovskie nochevki: via Uilpatinsky glacier — described in route 99; via South and North branches of the Tsey glacier — described in routes 83 and 108. From Vorobyovskie nochevki, turn right (when ascending from the Uilpatinsky glacier) and along Vorobyev glacier, left of the ice falls descending to the Uilpatinsky glacier, approach a steep snow slope with several rocky buttresses. The slope descends from the Songuti pass, connecting the peaks of Songuti on the right and Uilpata on the left. From the glacier, pass through the snow bridge of the bergschrund. Further: pass on the left side of the steep, third couloir from Uilpata (possible rockfall); ascend simple and moderately difficult, heavily damaged rocks of the steep counterfort (pitched rope);

Report on the first ascent of the route of 3B category of difficulty to the summit of Uilpata (4648 m) via ice-rock gully along the South ridge.

V. Uilpata 4648 m Report of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the first ascent of the route to Mt. Uilpata via the ice gully along the Southern ridge "3B" (c) Tomsk, 2008 Participants: Temerev I.M. Terekhin V.A. Table of Contents

First ascent description of the Wilpatta peak (4649 m) in the Caucasus via the left part of the southern glacier-snow slope, grade 3B complexity.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — ice and snow. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey Range. Peak, route: Uilpata, via the left part of the southern ice slope. Expected category of difficulty, 3B — first ascent. Height difference: 900 m, including 500 m of wall section, total route length — about 800 m (wall section), average steepness of the route — 35°, steepness of the wall section — 45°.

Ascent to the summit of Wilpatta (4648 m) along the South-west ridge, a combined route of 2B category of complexity.

Fig. 26 Uilpata (4648 m) via the Southwest Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 26). From the bivouac on the plateau (closed crevasses), bypass the Bivouachnaya peak from the left (north) and approach the Uilpatinsky Pass, located between Uilpata on the left and the CDS peak on the right. Traverse the plateau and cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge (protection required) Ascend a steep, 250–300-meter snow slope to the Uilpatinsky Pass Time from the initial bivouac: 2–3 hours. The path from the KSP of the Tsey region to the initial bivouac in the hut or on the scree - Uilpatinsky overnight stays - is described in route 83. From the Uilpatinsky overnight stays, traverse the snow plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey Glacier, bypassing the southeastern slopes of Uilpata. Approach the right side of the broad saddle of the Uilpatinsky Pass, connecting Uilpata on the right with the CDS peak on the left. Turn right and ascend a gentle snow slope to the right side of the long, narrow rocky ridges descending from the right side of the Uilpatinsky Pass between the ice falls of hanging glaciers. Glaciers:

Climbing Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, a detailed description of the challenging route and key considerations for mountaineers.

Ascent to the summit of **Uzunkol** mountain (4000 m) via the southwest wall, route description, technical information, and tips for climbers.

ULARG SONGUT KOMSOMOLETS

### Climbing Route Description The route covers several peaks, including the Main Summit, "Black Gendarme", Komsomolets, and Ullarg, detailing the specifics of the ascent and descent.

The ascent goes up, and when climbing it, the belay is piton. Above the cleft, you need to climb up the heavily destroyed rocks to a large site, from which the belay is clearly visible. The visible path runs along the wall, which has the structure of a fort and ends with a small site. From the site, they lift to the Small South Peak. From the Small Peak, descend to the NE, while descending to the right under the ridge in order to reach the saddle between the peaks. Further, the ascent goes straight up to the Main Peak. When climbing the tower, use piton belay. Descend from the top to the isthmus and arrange an overnight stay. Along the uncomplicated sections of the rocks, they traverse the slope to the snowy isthmus, then along the snowy ridge, they go in the direction of the "Black Gendarme", bypassing the rocky spur leading to Skatikovaya on the left. They climb to the "Black Gendarme" along the rocks of medium difficulty. The descent from the gendarme goes first along the uncomplicated rocks (6–8 m), then "sitting on the rope" (40–35 m) to the shelf. After that, they go around the "gendarme" and arrange an overnight stay. From the overnight stay location, they reach the summit of Komsomolets along the medium rocks and descend to the snowy ridge leading to Ullarg. The ascent to the summit of Ullarg begins by entering to the left along the course to the beginning of the snowy couloir (about 60 m) and exiting to the right counterfort. Then, along the uncomplicated rocks, they reach the summit of Ullarg along the ridge. Bypassing Pik Artsishevskogo on the right along the course, they reach the couloir leading to the Uilpatinsky Glacier plateau, where they can arrange an overnight stay on the ice rocks. The further descent follows the ascent path.

### Combined Route to Songuti via the Eastern Spur of Uilpati A detailed description of a challenging ascent that traverses glacier, rock, and snowy slopes, highlighting the risks of rockfall and avalanches.

SONGUTI-ULARG, TRAVERSE (combined route) category III The path from the "Torpedo" camp goes along the trail along the Tsey-Don River to the Uilpata River, where it is necessary to turn upwards (to the right). By the stream flowing down the "sheep's foreheads" from the Uilpatinsky Glacier (C-3), the path turns towards this glacier, ascending to the right end of the glacier. When ascending, one should beware of rockfall. The glacier should be ascended in the middle, heading towards the overhanging wall of the icefall. The wall is the edge of the firn plateau that feeds the Uilpatinsky Glacier and the nameless glacier sliding down to the northern branch of the Tsey Glacier. Both these glaciers are divided by the eastern shoulder of Uilpata. From this icefall - the serac - one should bypass it from the left (in the direction of travel), ascending along the avalanche deposits, cross the bergschrund, and exit onto the scree, ascending along it to the ridge of the western end of the eastern shoulder of Uilpata. When ascending to the ridge, beware of rockfall. From the ridge of the eastern shoulder of Uilpata, cross over to the firn plateau and head in the direction of the Sonquti ridge, towards the 10-3 ridge. When ascending to the ridge, one should keep to the direction of the second (counting from Uilpata) "gendarme" along the firn and partly icy slope. Initially, overcome a small bergschrund and approach the rocks along the slope, ascending through the couloirs, and exit onto the 10-3 ridge of Sonquti. When ascending, it is necessary to beware of avalanches and rockfall. On the ridge near the "gendarme", a bivouac can be organized. Further, the path goes along the 10-3 ridge to the Sonquti summit. On the ridge, there are two more "gendarmes": the first is small and can be passed easily;

First ascent of the Southeastern wall of Songuti-khokh summit (4460 m) with 5th category of difficulty by the team of Kharkov regional council "Avangard" in 1973.

Report On the first ascent of Songuti-khokh peak (4460 m) 5B cat. via the south-eastern wall by the team from Kharkov regional council of the "Avangard" sports society 1970 Brief information about the area and the object of ascent Songuti-khokh peak (4460 m) is located in the Tsey region of the Central Caucasus, between the peaks of Uilpata (4646 m) and Ularig (4420 m), and is one of the main peaks of the large Tsey horseshoe, characterized by the presence of complex wall routes. In the Tsey valley, 12 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty have been classified. This area has significant glaciation (Tsey glacier, Uilpatinsky, Karaugomsky, etc.). The main rocks composing the peaks of the Tsey valley are schists, granites, and gneisses. The weather in summer is unstable, with significant precipitation, frequent prolonged rains, low cloud cover, and fog. It is characteristic that the weather worsens in the second half of the day. The Uilpatinsky ridge separates the Tsey valley from Digoria with a high barrier, dissected by several latitudinal valleys, so strong winds of western and south-western directions are almost always present in the area of the ridge. Approach to Songuti-khokh peak can be conveniently made along the Tsey valley and then along the Uilpatinsky glacier. The transition from the "Tsey" alpine camp to the glacier plateau takes 6-7 hours. There are two routes to the peak: 4A category of difficulty along the ridge from the side of Uilpata peak;