30. UILPATA via the North-Eastern Wall

(combined route, category 5A difficulty) The ascent starts from the tourist center (KSP) of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac via the Uishatinsky glacier and the Southern and North-Western glaciers. From the Vorobyevsky overnight camps (protected from avalanches and rockfalls), cross the Vorobyev glacier and approach the wide snow-and-ice couloir of the North-Eastern wall. From the glacier, ascend via an avalanche gully, bergschrund, and ice-and-snow slope, then via smooth rocks (potential rockfall) to the wall on the left side of the couloir. From the couloir, move upwards via a steep ice gully (avalanches possible). From here:

• 20 m straight up via difficult smooth rocks with few holds (artificial handholds);
• 20 m via difficult rocks straight up under the ice formations on the right;
• then traverse left along rocky balconies;
• then ascend via a vertical inner corner to an ice ledge (avalanches possible);
• short traverse to the right onto the rocks;
• then a moderately difficult 60–80 m ascent to a small platform under an overhanging glacier.

The bivouac is on the platform. From the Vorobyevsky overnight camps (10–12 days) to the platform, reach the snow-and-ice slope. Ascend a steep slope with rocky outcrops in the lower section (potential rockfalls) to the snowy summit ridge (cornice) and along it to the summit of Uilshata. From the bivouac on the North-Eastern wall, 4–8 days via the South-Western ridge. Duration of the route