Karaugom Glacier

Report on the first ascent of the route of 3B category of difficulty to the summit of Uilpata (4648 m) via ice-rock gully along the South ridge.

V. Uilpata 4648 m Report of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the first ascent of the route to Mt. Uilpata via the ice gully along the Southern ridge "3B" (c) Tomsk, 2008 Participants: Temerev I.M. Terekhin V.A. Table of Contents

Ascent to the summit of Vostochny Karaugom (4495 m) via the South-eastern counterfort, a combined route, category 3A complexity, description of the path and key points.

Fig. 21 Karaugom East (4495 m) via the Southeast Buttress (G. Rebërn's combined route, Category III, Fig. 21). The path from the KSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross northwest across the Karaugom plateau (closed crevasses) and approach the wide southern slope of the Southeast Buttress of Karaugom East. From the plateau, having passed the bergschrund, ascend a steep 300-400-meter snowy slope (avalanche danger) to the saddle of the Southeast Buttress above the large first pinnacle. On the saddle, turn left and ascend the sharp snowy ridge (cornice). Further, along simple, partially medium-difficulty snow-covered rocks of the Southeast Buttress, approach the large pinnacle. Bypass the pinnacle on the right along a steep ice-snow slope or overcome it directly via steep rocks of medium difficulty (running belay). Behind the pinnacle, initially along a snowy (cornices), then along a heavily damaged rocky Southeast Buttress with "live" rocks - belay - ascend to the shoulder. Here, turn left and along the simple, gently sloping, damaged, and snow-covered (cornices) Northeastern ridge, ascend to the summit of Karaugom East. From the initial bivouac, 7-8 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Climbing Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, a detailed description of the challenging route and key considerations for mountaineers.

Ascent to the summit Vostochny Karaugom (4495 m) via North-eastern ridge, a combined route of 3A category of complexity.

Fig. 21 Karaugom East (4495 m) via North-Eastern Ridge (combined route by V. Lubents, category III, fig. 21). The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzanaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Karaugom plateau to the northwest (closed crevasses) and approach a wide snowy saddle on the ridge connecting the peaks of Vologata on the right and Karaugom on the left. Reach the bergschrund on the left side of the wide snowy slope and, overcoming it via a snow bridge, ascend a steep ice-snow (belay) 300–400-meter slope to the saddle. Here, turn left. Further: Along the wide ridge of the saddle (cornice) Then along the gradually increasing steepness of the North-Eastern ridge of Karaugom East (cornices) Exit through a 10–12-meter ice wall onto the takeoff rocks (pitched belay) Along simple and medium-difficulty takeoff rocks («live» stones, pitched belay) of the North-Eastern ridge, ascend to the shoulder. From the shoulder, along a snowy (cornices), then along a heavily destroyed and snow-covered rocky ridge («live» stones — belay) reach the summit of Karaugom East. From the initial bivouac, 6–7 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Source:

Ascent to TsDSA Peak (4477 m) via the North Ridge, a combined route of 2B category of difficulty, description of the path from the Uilpatinsky Pass.

Fig. 27 Peak TsDSA (4477 m) via North Ridge (route is combined, cat. 2B, fig. 27). The path from the CSP of Tsey area or from the village Dzhinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the saddle of Uilpatinsky Pass with initial bivouacs on the platforms of the Western Ridge of Bivouachnaya Peak or in the hut of the Southern branch of Tsey Glacier is described in the routes: 83 103

**Route #200 via the South-West Wall of Peak Sovetskoy Konstitutsii, category VI complexity**, a detailed description of the path and obstacles.

ASCENT VIA EASTERN COUNTERFORTS SOUTH TOWER Route difficulty category: 4B/TR. R14 UTYUG R13 40 m 3 R12 10 m 4 R11 15 m 3 R10 30 m 3 R9 35 m 3 TRAVERS 200 m

Ascent to the summit of Rapait (4200 m) via the western slope and the northern edge, category 5 complexity.

V. Karaugom Western via the North Edge, 5A cat. diff.

Description of a combined route category 4B complexity to Peak 120a via the 2nd wall of the eastern ridge with a detailed analysis of key sections and ascent to the summit.

Peak TsDSA via the Southeast Ridge South Face (combined route, cat. 4B difficulty) From the Uilpatinsky overnight camps, ascend the glacier, bypassing the Southeast face of Peak TsDSA, to reach the start of the route. Climb a 150–200 m snowy slope to reach the rocks of the southern buttress. The ascent is via moderately difficult rocks, leaving the "Suchi" to the right. After 120–150 m, enter a snow-ice couloir that leads to a 20-meter wall (the first critical section), which is climbed without a backpack. Two pitons are hammered into this wall. After the wall, move 30–50 m left and up across scree slopes under the "Bastion" to find a platform with a cairn, where a note from the first group to take this route in 1963 was found. From the cairn, move right across easy rocks to reach a broad snow-ice couloir. Cross it and exit onto the ridge on the right side. Follow the ridge for 30 m across easy rocks to reach a snow-ice saddle (with a cornices on the saddle). After crossing the saddle, bypass the "Bastion" on the right across heavily broken rocks. Then ascend 100–120 m up snow-covered rocks to reach a saddle between the "Bastion" and the First sentinel. Bypass the sentinel on the left and follow the ridge to the second sentinel (the second critical section). The 50-meter sentinel wall has a steepness of 80–90° with few holds. There is a small platform at the top for belaying (five pitons are hammered in at this section). Continue up the heavily broken ridge with numerous sentinels, which are climbed head-on: On the ridge, there is a second control cairn with a note from a 1952 group led by Master of Sports Kolomensky V. The "Zub" sentinel is climbed head-on via a crack with a plug - a [moderately difficult] section. Five pitons were hammered in during the ascent and descent of the "Zub" sentinel (descent on a rope while seated).

Description of a combined route to the summit of Zhula-tau via the eastern wall, featuring a rocky ridge traverse, icy couloirs, and steep rock sections with piton protection.

Uipata-Hoh via East Face (Mixed route: category III) From Vorobievskaya bivouac, approach the first couloir of the eastern wall. Advance through the snow to beneath the couloir and turn into its right-hand branch, then exit onto a rocky ridge. The ridge consists of monoliths with ledges, on which there are many loose rocks. There are no particular difficulties traversing the ridge. Protection is possible using pitons and rock features. At the point on the ridge where the first cairn is located, the ridge turns left; however, you should continue right, crossing a steep icy couloir (1 rope with step-cutting) from the couloir onto a broad, sloping ledge that extends to the rocks. Further work on the rocks is of medium difficulty with good protection features and ledges. The landmark is a flat rock hanging overhead to the left; climb directly towards it, traversing one ledge all the way to the left and then straight up. The route is clearly visible due to the surrounding sheer walls.

Ascent to the summit of Ushba via the Southwest Face, route description, difficulty category, and required technical skills.