TACTICAL PLAN FOR ASCENDING ULLPATA PEAK

Via the 3rd Buttress of the South Ridge, Category 5A difficulty, July 14–15, 1983 (team under guidance)

Legend

• Ascent route
• Descent route
• Alternative descent route in good snow conditions

Objects on the Map

• Ullpata Peak: 4646 m (reached by 6:00)
• Ullpatinsky Pass
• Southwest Ridge
• South Ridge
• Vorobiev Glacier
• Towards Ullpatinsky Passes

Route Sections (bottom to top)

• R0: Starting point of the route (from Ullpatinsky Passes)
• R0–R1: 40 m, 3
• R1–R2: 60 m, 3
• R2–R3: 10 m, 4
• R3–R4: 60 m, 2
• R4–R5: 15 m, 2
• R5 (First intermediate point)
• R5–R6: 60 m, 3
• R6–R7: 15 m, 5
• R7–R8: 40 m, 3
• R8 (Second intermediate point)
• R8–R9: 60 m, 3
• R9–R10: 30 m, 3
• R10–R11: 30 m, 2
• R11–R12: 30 m, 2
• R12–R13: 300 m, 2
• R13–R14: 150 m, 4
• R14–R15: 200 m, 3
• R15 (Third intermediate point)
• R15–R16: 30 m, 3
• R16: Ullpata Peak