76. bivouac on the Southwest Ridge (route 2B cat. difficulty, I. Daibog, P. Karyev, V. Nikolsky, August 28, 1939). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp along the Shkhelda and Aksu glaciers to the snow plateau of the upper cirque of the left branch of the Aksu glacier with the initial bivouac on "Aristov's Overnight Stay" or on the Northeast Ridge of the Aksu peak is described in route 72. Up the plateau - to the left - exit under the saddle of the ridge - Bivouachny pass, located between the peaks of Bivouachny peak on the left and Fizkulturnik on the right. From the plateau, overcoming the bergschrund, straight up the steep snowy slope (avalanches!) ascent to the Bivouachny pass. Bivouac on the pass. From "Aristov's Overnight Stay" 6–7 hours. On the pass, turn left and exit under the rock wall of Bivouachny peak. Along the edge of ice and rocks, traverse 40–50 m under the wall to the left, exit to the rocky-snowy Western counterforce. Further, with a 5–8-meter traverse under the overhanging wall (pitons insurance!) move to the left side of the counterforce. Along the steep snow-covered, with ice sections, rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the counterforce (pitons insurance!) 80–100-meter ascent to Bivouachny peak. From Bivouachny pass 1.5–2 hours. Descent via the ascent route. Duration of the route 2 days. It is necessary to have 2–3 ice screws and crampons for all participants. ("Baksan Valley", A. F. Naumov)

210. The Big Tsey horseshoe (Adai — Ulargee — Zaromag) (a combined route by K. Korolev, 5B cat. of difficulty). The path from the CSP of the Tsey district (a group of 4–8 people) to the Adai summit is described in route 166. From the Adai summit, descend down the ice-and-snow SW ridge to the first group of rocks, which are bypassed on the right. Then, 40 m down the steep ice-and-snow slope on the right side of the ridge. Then traverse down to the right along the steep ice-and-snow slope to the snow SW ridge. Along the snow ridge with rocky sections of medium difficulty in the lower part, approach the steep rocky ridge. Along the steep, heavily destroyed, simple and medium difficulty rocky ridge descend to a long, gentle ice-and-snow SW ridge, along which approach the rocky "saw". From under the "saw", descend from the ridge 40–50 m to the left and along the ledges, simple and medium difficulty rocks on the left side of the ridge, bypass the "saw" by traversing. Behind it, ascend to the platform of the snow col between the SW ridge of Adai summit and the gendarme "ZIL" of the E ridge of Zaromag summit. From Adai summit — 6–8 hours. From the col, along the wide (80–100 m), steep ridge, approach under the wall of the "ZIL" gendarme. Along the rocks of above medium difficulty on the right side of the wall — ascent to the ridge and along it — exit to the "ZIL" gendarme. The further path to Zaromag summit along the E ridge is described in route 178. From Zaromag, descend along the simple, short, gentle rocky, then snow 200-meter W ridge. Further:

• Descend to the left along the narrow, steep ice-and-snow 300–400-meter couloir, bypassing the rocky drop of the ridge.
• From the couloir, traverse to the right along the snow-covered rocky slopes to exit to the ridge connector.
• From the connector, along the boundary of ice and rocks, bypass two small gendarmes on the left and behind them exit to the col of the snow ridge.

Bivuachnaya

In the center of the Karau­gom plateau, a low, technically simple snow-capped peak Bivuachnaya (4150 m) rises. It is connected to the Krasnoflotets peak, located in the Tsey ridge, by a low ice-snow saddle, which drops to the Central branch of the plateau with an ice fall. The convenient rock platforms at the foot of the Western ridge of Bivuachnaya are used by climbers as a starting bivouac for ascents to the surrounding plateau peaks. It is mandatory to take a tent on the routes, as it is often impossible to find a bivouac in the fog on the plateau.

129. Bocos East (4050 m) via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A, Figure 29). The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak or on the Central branch of Karaugom plateau directly below the peak is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses) via the Central branch plateau, approach the right side of the long snowy saddle connecting the peak Burevestnik - Karaugomsky on the left with the Bocos massif on the right. From the plateau:

• Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge
• Ascend 70-90 m up the steep snowy slope (protection) to the right side of the saddle (cornices) On the saddle, turn right and exit onto the East ridge of the Bocos massif. Along the sharp (cornice) snowy East ridge (protection) 150-200 m upwards to the wall of the black gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the right. Then, along the steep snowy ridge-slope (protection), ascend to the ridge of the massif. Further, along a simple wide ridge, ascend 40-60 m to the peak Vostochny Bocos.

130. Eastern Bokos via the South slope (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 29). The path from the village of Dzinaga or from the tourist center of the Tsey region (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau near the western saddle of Shovi - Karaugom pass is described in route 83. From the bivouac, across the snowy plateau of the Western branch (closed crevasses) and slope, exit to the left side of the South ridge (cornice) of the Eastern Bokos peak. Without reaching the ridge, along the snowy slope on the left side of the South ridge, gradually increasing in steepness, move left into the second snowy couloir. Then:

• Along the steep snowy slope of the narrowing couloir, 350-400 m left - upwards (avalanche risk) to its end.

131. Bokos West via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2A, Fig. 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzhinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bnuvachnaya peak or on the snow plateau of the Central branch under the Bokos massif is described in route 83. From the platforms (closed crevices) along the snow plateau of the Central branch, approach the saddle of the ridge connecting the massifs of Bokos on the left and VTsSPs - Karaugomsky on the right. From the plateau, ascend a steep 50-60-meter snow slope to the bergschrund and overcome it via a snow bridge. Further up the steep icy-snow slope, the ascent is 80-100 m to the saddle (with belay).

132. Bokos Western (4060 m) via Western Ridge (ice and snow route, category 2B, fig. 29). The path from the CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the middle plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevasses), approach the wide leftmost snow couloir rising to the Western ridge of the Western Bokos peak, to the right (east) of the Big rocky gendarme. From the plateau, ascend a steep 120-150-meter snow slope to the bergschrund and cross it in the middle part via a snow bridge. Continue up a steep snow slope (avalanche risk) for 150-200 m to the Western Ridge saddle (belay required). On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snow-covered rocks of the Western Ridge, then a steep 80-100-meter ice and snow slope (running belay) to the Northern Ridge (cornices). Turn right here and:

• ascend a sharp, steep 40-50-meter Northern Ridge (cornices)
• then ascend simple, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks to reach the "Western Bokos" summit. From the plateau - 3-4 hours. Descend via the ascent route. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976. BUTSP

133. Bokos East — West (combined route by A. Durnov, category III complexity, fig. 29). The path from the Tsey region checkpoint or from the Dzinaga settlement (group of 4–8 people) to the East Bokos summit is described in routes 129, 130. From the Eastern summit, descend along the simple Western ridge, then along the snowy ridge to reach the snowy col. From the col, along the simple snow-covered rocky ridge, ascend to the Central Bokos summit. From the Central summit, along the long, destroyed, and snow-covered simple rocky ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on, approach the overhanging walls of the Central gendarme. From under the gendarme, descend 40–50 m to the left along a narrow, heavily destroyed (many "live" stones, piton belay) couloir, then along ledges, bypass the gendarme on the left and ascend the heavily destroyed steep rocks behind it onto the ridge. Further along the simple rocks (with several simple, passable gendarmes head-on) of the wide, long destroyed ridge, then along the snowy slope, reach the West Bokos summit. Descent along the Northern or Western ridges (see routes 131 and 132). The duration of the route (without approaches) is 10–12 hours. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Kavkaz), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976. BURS — KARAUTUMSKY

• South
• Central
• North

134. Bocos Western — Eastern (combined route by V. Miklashevsky, category III of complexity). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Western Bocos is described in routes 131, 132. From the Western summit, there is a small descent along the snowy Eastern ridge in the direction of the Central summit. Then, along the occasionally snow-covered simple rocks of the wide, long, and destroyed ridge with numerous, straightforward, несложными gendarmes, approach under the sharp Central gendarme. From under it:

• descend 30–40 m along steep rocks (loose stones — piton protection) to the right;
• then, along ledges, bypass the gendarme to exit into a narrow, steep couloir. Along rocks of medium difficulty (many loose stones — piton protection, key point of the route) of the narrow couloir, ascend 30–40 m to the ridge behind the Central gendarme. Along the simple, long, destroyed, and snow-covered rocky ridge, overcoming numerous gendarmes straightforward, reach the summit of Central Bocos. From the Central summit, along the simple ridge, descend to a wide snowy saddle. From the saddle, along the simple snowy, then along the wide, gently sloping Western ridge:
• ascend to the summit of Eastern Bocos. Descent along the Eastern ridge or the Southern slope (see route 129 or 130).

Traverse Bubis – Songuti, category 4B Bubis, Double Peak (South, North), Krasnoflotets, Krasnoarmeets, 1 2, Tsей-Karaugomsky pass. TsDSA, Uilpatinsky pass, Uilpata, Songuti pass, Songuti.