TACTICAL PLAN FOR ASCENDING ULLPATA PEAK

Via the 3rd Buttress of the South Ridge, Category 5A difficulty, July 14–15, 1983 (team under guidance)

Legend

• Ascent route
• Descent route
• Alternative descent route in good snow conditions

Objects on the Map

• Ullpata Peak: 4646 m (reached by 6:00)
• Ullpatinsky Pass

39A

Description

Ascent to Ostry Tolbachik via the Western ridge. Route 3–6 cat. sl.

Ostry Tolbachik

Passage of the 3rd route. △ — overnight stay locations. R — control tour. The beginning of the approach description to the stream is given in the description of the north-western route. Along the stream descending from the plateau, which approaches the north-western ridge, descent into the valley, separating the north-western ridge and the western one. The descent runs along grassy slopes and is technically simple. Having descended into the valley, it can be seen that to the right of the descent direction the western ridge is bristling with rocky pillars, and to the left glaciers descend into the valley. Having descended into the valley, we turn left along the track to a prominent cliff from the western ridge; this cliff must be bypassed from the western side along grassy slopes, which lead to a grassy glade. The glade encircles this cliff in a semicircle and is easily bypassed from the south-western side. This place is the starting point of the ascent in the western direction. The time required for the approach from the stream with descent and ascent is 1.5–2 hours. Height above sea level is 1600 m.

Route description by sections

1. Gestola, NE buttress — Cat. 4B

The initial bivouac is on the edge of the rocky side of the Lower Tsanner ice fall (point 3). Approach to the western slopes at the base of the NE buttress across the upper plateau of the N. Tsanner Glacier (covered crevasses!). Exit to the ridge of the buttress via a gentle snowy slope of 120–150 m. Up along the ridge (overhanging cornices to the east!) to a depression in the ridge. Ascend a snowy-icy slope to the right of a rocky outcrop: 100 m up a steep (50–60°) ice pitch from the bergschrund, then 150–200 m along a snowy ridge to a snowy-icy "cushion" to the right of a gendarme on the NE buttress. In a depression below the gendarme, it is possible to set up an overnight stay. From the depression, ascend 80–100 m up a sharp snowy ridge, then traverse left for 20 m along the boundary between rocks and snow (ice), and then up easy rocks — an ascent of 80–100 m to a shoulder of the ridge. 30–40 m along a gentle snowy ridge to the summit. 8–12 hours from the bivouac. Descent to the "saddle" of Gestola and further — as per description 2. Recommended ascent plan to Gestola peak via Lyalver:

• Day 1 — approach to the initial bivouac site;
• Day 2 — N. Tsanner Pass – Lyalver – Bezymyanaya (4310) – "saddle" of Gestola;
• Day 3 — ascent to the summit and descent via the ascent route to the initial bivouac site;
• Day 4 — return to camp. via the NE buttress of Bezymyanaya:
• Day 1 — approach to the initial bivouac site;

DYKH-TAU (W), SOUTHERN COUNTERFORTRESS — 5A

The initial bivouac is on a scree shelf at the base of the Central Southern counterfortress of G1. Dykh-Tau. Along the shelf to the right, cross the snow-ice couloir separating the central and right counterfortresses of G1. Dykh-Tau, descend a 3 m wall, and then ascend simple rocks of the right counterfortress to enter the main Southern couloir. The couloir (with loose rocks) is crossed to the right and upwards, exiting under the rocky base of the Southern counterfortress of East Dykh-Tau. Along rocks of medium difficulty on the right side of the counterfortress, ascend 250–300 m under a 50 m wall. Ascent to the 50 m wall:

• First, 30 m up the center of the wall,
• Then 20 m via a crack, exiting onto the shoulder of the wall. From the shoulder, ascend rocks of medium difficulty under a rusty rock fall. Passing the fall:
• First, directly upwards 30 m via a crack,
• Then traverse right along shelves and upwards 25–30 m via an inner corner. A bypass to the right is possible. Above the fall — 80 m along shelves and rocks of medium difficulty on the right side of the counterfortress, exiting onto a saddle upwards to the left via a 10 m rocky couloir. 140–160 m of rocks of medium difficulty lead to a platform. A bivouac is possible here; the time from the initial bivouac is 9–12 hours.

Dykh-Tau (Main), NE BUTTRESS — 5B

"Georgian Route".

Initial bivouac — on the meadow under the base of the SE ridge of Brno peak. From the meadow, transition to Cheget-Mijirgi glacier — western branch of Mijirginsky glacier, bounded by slopes of Dykh-Tau and Misses-Tau. Along the right side of the glacier:

• first, up along the slopes of the eastern ridge of Misses-Tau,
• then crossing the glacier to the left (crevasses, avalanches) with exit under the base of the NE buttress. 200 m below the upper rock island to the right and transition to rocks on the left edge of the buttress base. From the initial bivouac 5 hours. Further movement along the buttress with general direction left and up with exit to its right edge, subsequently turning into a clearly defined ridge. Along the way, between both edges, a series of more or less clearly defined ridges is overcome. A rock mushroom on the ridge of the NE buttress can serve as a landmark. Exit to the ridge under the yellow (40 m) wall 15–20 m above the mushroom. The wall is ascended in the center; the overhanging section in the upper part is bypassed to the right. 50–70 m of straightforward climbing after the wall lead to a ledge. Bivouac is possible. From the initial bivouac 12–14 hours. From the ledge:

Ascent Passport

1. Class of ascents — winter
2. Region of ascents — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ullu-Tau Eastern 4058 m via the rock islands of the northern wall and the western ridge.
4. Complexity category — 5B
5. Height difference — 689 m Extent of the wall part — 930 m Length of sections of 5–6 complexity category — 840 m
6. Number of driven pitons: | rock | nut | bolt | ice |

. Tactical plan of the ascent, breakdown by time, route sections, etc., UIAA scheme:

M­A­L­A­Y­U­SH­B­A (4200 m) (175) 5B cat. diff., central wall, Gorodetsky's route, 1977 Tactical plan of ascent. 21.07.1977 — 5:00 — departure from АУСБ «Адыл-су». 13:00 — «Nemetsky bivouac». 22.07.1977 — 4:00 — ascent. 5:30 — departure. 2:00 — on the saddle between М.Ушбой and «pillow». 18:00 — processed п. Чалаат, bivouac. 23.07.1977 — 5:00 — started descent to л. Чалаат. In the lower part of bergschrund (15 m). 9:00 — reached the ridge rocks, bivouac. 24.07.1977 — observing the route. The wall is lit from 8:00 to 15:00. 25.07.1977 — 8:00 — departure of the first rope. 80 m of simple rocks of the destroyed ridge, crossed the pass separating the ridge from the wall and went to the oblique inclined shelf in the lower part of the wall (slabs). On the shelf 40 m to the right-up (sect. 3) to a steep slab with a cleft. Along the cleft (sect. 4) to approach under the 5-meter overhanging wall (sect. 5, ИТО). Further along the right part of the inner corner (sect. 6) — exit to a small site with a snowy drift. Control stage I.