Shkhara

via the northern edge, cat. 5B Team M.G.S. "SPARTAK" July 13-18, 1965 Coach and leader - SHATAEV V.N. Shkhara northern edge

Ascent

July 13. From the alpine camp, the path goes up along the trail and the Besengi glacier moraine to Misses-Kosh. We set out fairly early (5:00) hoping to rest well at the "Austrian" campsite and get to know the character of Shkhara. No wind. Only the uларs disturb the peace with their morning songs. The path is familiar only to the leader; the others are going to Shkhara for the first time. Turning left from the confluence of the Eastern and Western branches of the Besengi glacier along the coastal moraine, we approached the red rocks, from which we reached the campsite in half an hour. Gusty winds were shaking the tent of a group of Leningraders climbing Shkhara via the Eastern edge - cat. 4B. We set up the tent behind a rock, and while preparing lunch, Shataev-Karchewski went out to examine the approach route and the exit to the edge.

Description of the ascent route to peak Kankosheva 3920 m via the Eastern edge (from KOSHTAN pass) – 3A category of difficulty.

From the overnight stay behind the moraine - into the moraine gap, exit to the Ullu-Auz glacier. Cross the glacier in the direction of the KOSHTAN pass. From the glacier - along the talus and snowfields, exit to the plateau below the KOSHTAN pass. From the plateau - along the snowy slope, passing the bergschrund on the right. Reach the KOSHTAN pass (replace the note in the cairn on the pass). From the pass - right and up along the wide snowy ridge. The first gendarme is bypassed on the left along the snow. The second - first a 10-15-meter traverse to the right, then 10 m straight up the plate and 30 m along the rocks of medium difficulty - exit to the gendarme's saddle. From the saddle - a 40-meter traverse along the ledges on the left side of the gendarme with an exit to the shoulder of the South counterfort. Along the steep rocks of medium difficulty 30 m up to the gendarme. Further - 50-70 m along the sharp snowy ridge - exit below the walls of the third gendarme. First, bypass it on the right along the boundary of ice and rocks to a 12-15-meter ledge. From the ledge - 50 m up the plate, then a traverse into a 70-80-meter couloir, which leads to the saddle. From the saddle - up a 15-meter cleft to the gendarme. From it - down to the ridge after 20–25 m. Further - up along the simple rocks of the ridge. The fourth gendarme is ascended straight up (40 m), then - bypassed by a 60-70-meter traverse on the left along the ledges and rocks of medium difficulty through the South counterfort with an exit beyond the gendarme to the saddle below the rocky ascent of peak Kankosheva. From the saddle - straight up 15 m along the difficult rocks of the counterfort. Further - 40 m along a 4-meter cleft - ascent to the Eastern peak of Kankosheva.

Shkhara: via NE ridge and N edge

Shkhara (Main), NE ridge — Cat. 5A

The initial bivouac can be organized either at the "Austrian overnight stays" or on the Shkhara pillow — a snow plateau below the western slopes of the NE ridge. From the "Austrian overnight stays," descend to the glacier and, passing under the steep ice step of its tributary flowing from the Sella pass, cross the Eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier, exiting under the icefall in the couloir between the NE ridge and the North edge of Shkhara. Ascend the couloir to the right of the icefall via a snowy slope with a series of ascents. 400–450 m. The couloir is avalanche-prone (threatened by ice discharges on the northern slopes of East Shkhara), so at the beginning of the ascent, stay closer to the rock outcrops of the North edge. Upon reaching the upper boundary of the icefall, you should:

• Turn left,
• Cross avalanche gullies,
• Exit onto the snow plateau above the icefall — the "pillow".

Physical Culture and Sports Committee under the USSR Council of Ministers

XXXVI USSR Alpine Championship 1985

Snow and Ice Ascent Category

Report

On the ascent of Shota Rustaveli peak, 4960 m, via the north face, category 5B difficulty, made by the team RSFSR – II.

Team's Tactical Actions

A day before departure, an observation of the route and a study of the lower part of the route were conducted. The tactic was built to safely and quickly pass the extended snow and ice route.

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit of Itkaya­bashi 3197 m. via the left part of the center of the Western wall (proposed 6A category) by the team of Sumy region FAS from August 3 to 5, 2013. Team captain: Roshko V. I. Team coach: Mityukhin F. P.

Sumy — 2013

Addresses:

Coach Mityukhin Fyodor Petrovich, 40004, Sumy, Metallurgov str., 14/67; home phone: +38 (050) 634-34-34; work phone: 8 (0542) 61-99-64 Leader Roshko Vladimir Ivanovich

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF TEGENEKLIBASHI PEAK VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 2A (ORIENTATIONAL) DIFFICULTY LEVEL AM AUSC Tyrnyauz UTS Tegenekli May 1, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

I. Class of ice and snow ascents 2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi 3. Peak Shota Rustaveli - 4960 m via North face (route by A. V. Laletin) 4. 5B category, fourth ascent 5. Total height difference of the route is 1360 m. Height difference of the wall section is 1200 m. Average steepness of the wall section is 48°. Route length is 2565 m. Length of the wall section is 1755 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty is 1445 m. 6. Pitons hammered: Ice pitons for belay - 250, ITO - 9. Rock pitons for belay - 13.

Ascent Logbook

1. Type of ascent: ice and snow climb.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Peak Shota Rustaveli, 4960 m, via the north face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Total height difference of the route 1340 m, height difference of the wall section 1180 m, average steepness of the wall section 48°, route length 2400 m, wall section length 1660 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 1355 m.
6. Pitons used: Ice pitons for belay 257, ITO 6, rock pitons for belay 12.
7. Total climbing hours: 24.

REPORT

on the Dykhtau – Koshtan traverse of 6A category of complexity by the team from St. Petersburg from 30.08.2020 to 5.09.2020 2020

I. Climbing Report

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the Demchenko CSKA team

To the summit 3652 m. Working name — peak TK MISiS (TK MISiS)

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge. (43°4′5.09″ N 43°17′16.41″ E) via the southern ridge First ascent. Presumably 2A category of difficulty. Galimzyanov T.R. — Zaryaev V.V. 2016

Ascent participants