Physical Culture and Sports Committee under the USSR Council of Ministers

XXXVI USSR Alpine Championship 1985

Snow and Ice Ascent Category

Report

On the ascent of Shota Rustaveli peak, 4960 m, via the north face, category 5B difficulty, made by the team RSFSR – II.

Team's Tactical Actions

A day before departure, an observation of the route and a study of the lower part of the route were conducted. The tactic was built to safely and quickly pass the extended snow and ice route.

To make an early start on the route, a bivouac was organized at the beginning of the route. According to the tactical plan, departure from the bivouac was at 2:00 on August 12. The team approached the route at 2:30.

• The ice wall was traversed by 5:00 using "ice axes".
• The first climber went on a double rope with a shock absorber, twisting ice screws every 2 m.
• Then, simultaneous movement on snow and ice ascents.
• The couloir was crossed by the shortest path, and the team approached the bergschrund by 5:20.

On the ice slab, to speed up movement, three teams worked autonomously. The teams moved simultaneously, in parallel, with a distance of 10–15 m between them. Ice screws were twisted every 5 m. They did not stand on top of each other. The team captain was in the middle team.

The route requires great physical endurance. There is a particularly heavy load on the ankles.

To unload their legs, a stop was made on a rocky island. After rest and a snack, movement continued according to the same scheme.

The steepness increased somewhat when approaching the ridge. They reached the ridge at 15:00.

Movement along the ridge took 5 hours. In some places, the ridge is heavily destroyed, with snow cornices. Caution is needed when traversing the ridge.

• From 17:00 to 18:00, there was heavy hail.

They stopped for the night at 20:20 according to the tactical plan.

On August 12, they left the bivouac at 7:30 and were on the summit of Shota Rustaveli at 8:00 during the morning communication.

Descent was made via the 4B category difficulty route on East Jangi-tawu. According to the tactical plan, the team was at the "Jani-kosh" bivouac by 18:15.

Thus, the tactic of fast and safe passage of the extended snow and ice route was successfully implemented.

Safety measures on the route included:

• Early departure on the route, minimizing rockfall and avalanche danger;
• Rest before departing on the route and rest on a rocky island and on the ridge;
• Working on a double rope;
• Using a shock absorber first on complex sections;
• Autonomous work of three teams on the ice slab and changing the lead every 20 m;
• Reliable radio communication;
• Good visibility of the route by observers;
• Presence of other groups in the area.

ROUTE SCHEME IN UIAA SYMBOLS. M 1:2000 sections R0–R1; R2–R5 at a scale of 1:10000

Route Description by Sections

Section R0–R1: Glacier, representing a system of snow and ice ascents. Movement is simultaneous along the left part of the glacier under the base of a large snow and ice wall.

Section R1–R2: Snow and ice wall (30 m, 90°); ascended vertically upwards using ice axes. Protection via ice screws.

Section R2–R3: Snow ascents leading under the bergschrund. Movement is upwards, sticking to the left safe part. Traverse the couloir of the ice fall in the narrowest place in the direction of the middle part of the ice slab. Simultaneous and alternate protection via ice axe.

Section R3–R4: Ice slab. Alternate movement in the direction of a rocky island at the top of the slab. Protection via ice screws (every 5 m). Use of ice axe and "ice hooks".

Section R4–R5: Steeper section of the ice slab. Protection via ice screws (every 5 m). Alternate movement. Use of ice axe and "ice hooks".

Section R5–R6: The steepest section of the slab, leading to the ridge (40 m, 60°). Be careful! On the ridge, a cornice is possible, which is traversed at the narrowest place.

Section R6–R7: Ridge towards the summit of Shota Rustaveli. Destroyed. Cornices towards the East Bezengi glacier. Ridge protection. There are several sports descents.

Traverse the rocky massif of the summit to the right. Be cautious - cornices!

Exit onto the snow plateau between the summit of Sh. Rustaveli and East Jangi-tawu. Ascent to the summit of Sh. Rustaveli from the plateau via easy rocks and then left along the snow ridge. There is no clearly defined summit tour.

Descent:

• onto the plateau
• then along the north-eastern ridge of East Jangi-tawu, category 4B difficulty

Team Captain Shkarban V.V. USSR Master of Sports Team Coach Shevchenko N.A. USSR Master of Sports Bezengi Alpine Base August 11–12, 1985

Izmailov V.I. Edimov V.B. Kurochkin A.T. Sekachev N.G. Tesheolov V.A.

August 9, 1985