and fixed ropes are hung for the rest of the participants. The 2nd terminal cairn is built on the platform. From the platform, along a narrow (20–30 cm) inclined ledge, you need to bypass a large black "tooth" on the left, which is clearly visible from the glacier. After 8–10 m, the ledge bends to the right, and the rocks overhang in this place. The wall ends with this "tooth", and then a rocky section of a ridge character follows. You need to:

• descend to the left along the direction of movement for 15–20 m to the snow-rock garnish;
• bypass the rocky gendarme;
• reach the lowering of the ridge. There is a convenient place for an overnight stay here. Overnight stay on the ridge is mandatory. The entire wall is climbed in 8–10 hours with piton belay. In some areas, it is necessary to pull up the backpacks of all group members. The first person always moves without a backpack. The height of the wall is about 300 m. On the next day, departure is no later than 6:00 am. Movement is up the ridge. Rocks are of medium difficulty. Crossing the 1st snow-ice couloir to a separate rocky island, from the separate rocky island in the direction of rocky ridges, crossing the second couloir.

Route Description

Ascent to v. Malaya Ganza via the northwestern ridge, category 2B. From the base camp, move up the valley along the left (orographic) bank of the Arg river. Cross the Suvtor river, which flows from the northwestern glacier (1 hour's walk from the camp), and continue along its left bank to the Yashnovaya river (30 minutes from the Suvtor river crossing). The path goes up a steep rocky scree. Move along the left (orographic) bank of the Yashnovaya river to the north, towards the "ram's foreheads" (baran'i lby). The "ram's foreheads" are steep and slippery; it's possible to move without being roped up, but with caution (snowy scree, rockfall, and heavily glaciated "ram's foreheads"):

• Snowy scree
• Rockfall
• "Ram's foreheads" are heavily glaciated Beyond the first stage of the "ram's foreheads", there's another scree slope, which is moderate and steep. To the left, the "ram's foreheads" continue as a ridge. Move up the scree slope and a cascade of waterfalls that descend from the next stage of the "ram's foreheads". Caution is necessary on this section due to rockfall and potential icefall, as the path lies beneath the tongue of the glacier.

Climbing route description to Gerta-bashi peak (4200 m) from Ullu-Auz glacier — Category 1B From the overnight stay on the moraine, ascend via grassy slopes and scree, then left to bypass the ridge descending from the Dumala-Tau massif, and following the Dumala-Tau slopes along the glacier and snowfields — ascent to the middle plateau of the Ullu-Auz glacier. Then, via snowy slopes upwards, in the direction of the central rocky outcrop under Mira peak (above the outcrop are icefalls) to a snowy ledge-slope above the icefalls. Along the snowy ledge-slope above the icefalls 400–500 m leftwards upwards under Mira peak slopes (prone to avalanches and icefall) to ascend to Trud pass plateau. From the overnight stay — 5–6 hours. From the pass, leftwards via snowfields, slopes, and simple rocks to reach Gerta-bashi peak. Descent via the ascent route takes 2–3 hours.

Shkhara: via NE ridge and N edge

Shkhara (Main), NE ridge — Cat. 5A

The initial bivouac can be organized either at the "Austrian overnight stays" or on the Shkhara pillow — a snow plateau below the western slopes of the NE ridge. From the "Austrian overnight stays," descend to the glacier and, passing under the steep ice step of its tributary flowing from the Sella pass, cross the Eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier, exiting under the icefall in the couloir between the NE ridge and the North edge of Shkhara. Ascend the couloir to the right of the icefall via a snowy slope with a series of ascents. 400–450 m. The couloir is avalanche-prone (threatened by ice discharges on the northern slopes of East Shkhara), so at the beginning of the ascent, stay closer to the rock outcrops of the North edge. Upon reaching the upper boundary of the icefall, you should:

• Turn left,
• Cross avalanche gullies,
• Exit onto the snow plateau above the icefall — the "pillow".