Shkhara: via NE ridge and N edge

Shkhara (Main), NE ridge — Cat. 5A

The initial bivouac can be organized either at the "Austrian overnight stays" or on the Shkhara pillow — a snow plateau below the western slopes of the NE ridge.

From the "Austrian overnight stays," descend to the glacier and, passing under the steep ice step of its tributary flowing from the Sella pass, cross the Eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier, exiting under the icefall in the couloir between the NE ridge and the North edge of Shkhara.

Ascend the couloir to the right of the icefall via a snowy slope with a series of ascents. 400–450 m. The couloir is avalanche-prone (threatened by ice discharges on the northern slopes of East Shkhara), so at the beginning of the ascent, stay closer to the rock outcrops of the North edge.

Upon reaching the upper boundary of the icefall, you should:

• Turn left,
• Cross avalanche gullies,
• Exit onto the snow plateau above the icefall — the "pillow".

An alternative ascent to the "pillow" is possible to the left of the icefall along the junction of it with the slopes of the NE ridge.

From the plateau, overcoming the bergschrund, ascend the snow-ice slope to the left boundary of the triangular rock island 120–150 m and then along the boundary of rocks and snow (ice) exit onto the NE ridge (300–350 m).

Further, the path goes along the snowy ridge with a series of ascents and несложных rock gendarmes:

• To the point where the ridge turns before East Shkhara — cornices overhang to the left (west).
• After the turn — cornices overhang to the north.
• To the saddle below the snow-ice ascent of East Shkhara — 10–14 hours.

The ascent to the East summit via the snow-ice slope and then along the ridge and simple rocks requires 1.5–2 hours.

Descent from the East summit to the saddle and subsequent ascent via the snow-ice slope to the Main Shkhara takes 1.5–2 hours.

Cairn — on the rocks of the southern slopes below the summit.

Descent via the ascent route to the "Austrian overnight stays" takes 10–14 hours.

Recommended ascent plan:

• Day 1 — approach to the route;
• Day 2 — exit onto the NE ridge and ascent along the ridge to the saddle below East Shkhara;
• Day 3 — ascent to the summit and descent along the ridge, overnight stay on the ridge;
• Day 4 — descent from the ridge to the "Austrian overnight stays," return to camp.