Orjonikidze via SW slope along the NE ridge from Orjonikidze Pass

Route description.

Peak Orjonikidze is located in the central part of the Malo-Almatinsky spur, is the highest point in this area. It is a large rocky massif with lateral ridges extending to the northwest and northeast, has significant glaciation:

• the East Orjonikidze glacier descends into the lateral valley of the Left Talgar;
• it is framed by the West Orjonikidze hanging glacier on the western side. The starting bivouac is at Orjonikidze Pass (3980 m). The approach to it is through the Tuyuk-Su glacier and its right lateral moraine, the Tuyuk-Su Needles glacier, and then to the foot of the pass. After overcoming a large talus, exit to the middle, and in the upper part of the slope - to the fine talus. The ascent length is up to 300 m. The ascent begins in a southerly direction:
• along the talus,
• then along easy rocks turning into a crumbling ridge.

Otechestvennoy voyny 1Б cat. difficulty via Mayakovsky peak's North ridge

Route description.

The peak Otechestvennoy voyny is located in the central part of the Maloalmatinsky spur; Mayakovsky peaks rise to the south of it, and Antikainen peak is to the north. On the western side and northern slopes of the lateral ridge of Mayakovsky peak, a small Mayakovsky Glacier descends. The eastern slopes are cut by narrow stepped couloirs, separated by steep rocky ridges. The starting bivouac is near the Mynzhilki weather station. From here, cross the Malaia Alma-Atinka river and go around the Manshuk Mametova glacier at its foot; then ascend to the ablation zone of the Mayakovsky Glacier. Move along the moraine, then along the

Partizan 2B cat. via West face from Ledik Igla

Route description.

The summit of Partizan is located in the main ridge of the Malo-Almatinsky spur. It rises with two rocky towers above its snowy-ice foundation. From the south, the peak is connected to the peaks of Igly Tuyksu by a long, heavily serrated rocky ridge; to the north lies the peak of Ordzhonikidze. They are connected by a 200-meter snow-ice ridge with powerful cornices on its eastern side. From here, the Partizan glacier flows down to the west. The initial bivouac can be conveniently set up on the moraine of the Igly Tuyksu glacier. The ascent begins by approaching the base of the left snow-ice couloir adjacent to the massif of the Ordzhonikidze peak. Traverse the narrowest part of the couloir and exit onto the ice slope. Belaying is with pitons. Crampons are necessary. If the ice sections are heavily exposed, one can:

• turn left onto the rocks
• ascend them with piton belaying to the upper snowy slope
• move along the slope towards the northern tower of Partizan

Pogrebetskogo — Lokomotiv 2A cat. cl. traverse

Route description.

From the initial bivouac on the Morain of Molodezhny Glacier, exit onto Tuyuksu Glacier and move along its middle part. Having passed the glacier drop and the massif of Tuyuksu peak, turn left towards the large stones lying at the foot of the ridge of Tuyuksu peak. Climb to Tuyuksu Pass and move along the ridge to the peak. Descent:

• Down the snowy, not steep slopes, sometimes on talus — to the lowering between the peaks of Pogrebetskogo and Lokomotiv.
• Bypass a number of gendarmes on the left along the rocks of medium difficulty and easy ones

Tuyuksu via North Ridge from the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier, 3B cat.

Route description.

Cross the Tuyuksu glacier in its initial part, move to the right lateral moraine, reach the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier and follow it to the rocky ridge located on the north-north-eastern slope of the summit massif. The ascent begins here. The first rock is bypassed on the right via a snowy-icy couloir with an exit to the saddle. Further, the path goes along easy rocks to a 15-meter rock wall, with piton belay. A new section of easy rocks leads to a 20-meter rock wall. It can be overcome:

• via a narrow cornice on the left side
• on the right via inclined slabs (caution! "live" stones)

Route Description

The starting point of the route is described in the ascent description to the summit of Uchitel 2A cat. sl. from the East. Further path follows the ridge connecting both summits. The first and second gendarmes are bypassed on the left. The remaining ones are overcome head-on. Then a неслож­ный спуск (easy descent) into the pass, movement along the ridge to the very summit of Pioner. The descent from the summit is to the left along the ridge to the Pioner­sky pass (3870 m), from it to the moraine of the Mametova glacier and along the trail to return to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac at the Alpin­grad site.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• main rope — 2×40 m
• expendable repschnur — 5–6 m

Fizkulturnik 2A cat. sl. from Aiyak glacier

Description of the route.

The initial bivouac is in the area of Talgar Pass, through which the approach to the route is made. From here, the path to the summit is clearly visible. Crossing the terminal moraines of the Bogdanovich Glacier, approach the foot of the ridge. The Til Glacier can serve as a landmark. Ascend the smoothed rocky outcrops and "bighorn sheep's foreheads". Continue ascending along the talus and moderately difficult rocks on the left side of the Til Glacier. After 300 m, cross over to the glacier (insurance via ice axe, step cutting). Overcoming the glacier on crampons (there are crevices), approach the gendarme, which is overcome head-on. Behind the gendarme, ascend a small crumbly wall to the forepeak, which is taken head-on or bypassed on the right.

Chkalova, 1B cat. diff. from the west

Route description.

From the Chimbulak ski resort, ascend to the Talgar Pass. In the southeast direction, beyond the tongue of the Bogdanovich Glacier, the hanging Til Glacier is visible. Follow the trail between Shkolnik Peak (on the right) and a rocky outcrop (on the left) to reach the glacier, and, crossing it, approach the rocks to the left of the Til Glacier. After traversing about 50 meters across the "ram's foreheads," reach an inclined ledge. Follow the ledge to reach a scree couloir, and ascend it to a snowy plateau. Cross the plateau in an easterly direction and approach a couloir descending between the summit and the ridge. Moving up the couloir (avalanche risk!), reach a narrow couloir branching off to the left. Enter this couloir and ascend, turning right. Continue up moderately difficult rock terrain to reach the summit. Descend via the ascent route.

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants: 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac at Talgar Pass.

I. Ice and snow class 2. Central Tian-Shan, Inylchek ridge 3. Peak "5581" (Dobroĭ voli) via the direttissima of the North face 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B, first ascent 5. Height difference: 1500 m, main section length: 1900 m, sections with 5-6 category of difficulty: 1250 m, average steepness of the main section: 60.5° (4000-5500 m), out of which 6 category of difficulty: 450 m, 75° (4250-4750 m) 6. Pitons used:

7. Climbing hours — 27, days — 3

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: