Fizkulturnik 2A cat. sl. from Aiyak glacier
Description of the route.
The initial bivouac is in the area of Talgar Pass, through which the approach to the route is made. From here, the path to the summit is clearly visible.
Crossing the terminal moraines of the Bogdanovich Glacier, approach the foot of the ridge. The Til Glacier can serve as a landmark. Ascend the smoothed rocky outcrops and "bighorn sheep's foreheads". Continue ascending along the talus and moderately difficult rocks on the left side of the Til Glacier. After 300 m, cross over to the glacier (insurance via ice axe, step cutting). Overcoming the glacier on crampons (there are crevices), approach the gendarme, which is overcome head-on.
Behind the gendarme, ascend a small crumbly wall to the forepeak, which is taken head-on or bypassed on the right. The path then lies to the main northern summit, followed by a descent south to the northeastern summit, then southwest through a firn basin to the western summit. The ascent to the latter is along the ridge.
Further:
- The southeastern summit is about 200 m away, accessible via an easy path.
- Descend to the saddle between Fizkulturnik and the peak Kommunola.
- Then, along a snowy slope or talus (depending on the time of year), descend to the right branch of the Bogdanovich Glacier.
- Continue along the glacier to the initial bivouac.
The first ascent with a traverse of the entire Fizkulturnik ridge was made in August 1937 by a group of Alma-Ata climbers:
- V. Ignatiev
- A. Demchenko
- L. Kelle
- O. Rossova
- T. Rossova
under the leadership of A. Alekseev
Recommendations:
- Number of participants: 8-10 people.
- Initial bivouac in the area of Talgar Pass.
- Departure from bivouac at 6:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4:
- main rope: 2 × 40 m
- ice screws: 4 pcs.
- ice axes: 2 pcs.
Author: Zhunusov B. Source: Book "Climbing routes. Trans-Ili Alatau". Part 1 from mountain.kz website.