Pogrebetskogo — Lokomotiv 2A cat. cl. traverse
Route description.
From the initial bivouac on the Morain of Molodezhny Glacier, exit onto Tuyuksu Glacier and move along its middle part. Having passed the glacier drop and the massif of Tuyuksu peak, turn left towards the large stones lying at the foot of the ridge of Tuyuksu peak. Climb to Tuyuksu Pass and move along the ridge to the peak.
Descent:
- Down the snowy, not steep slopes, sometimes on talus — to the lowering between the peaks of Pogrebetskogo and Lokomotiv.
- Bypass a number of gendarmes on the left along the rocks of medium difficulty and easy ones — exit to Lokomotiv peak. On one of the rocky fragments — a cairn with a note.
- Descent along the snowy ridge, then along the couloir, which is technically easy, but rockfall-prone. When passing through it, maximum caution is necessary.
- Exit from the couloir onto Tuyuksu Glacier.
Movement along the glacier is possible by two routes:
- at the foot of the ridge stretching between Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya peaks;
- crossing the glacier in its upper part, exit to the foot of the ridge of Tuyuksu peak.
Having reached the point where Kosmodemyanskaya Glacier flows into Tuyuksu Glacier, exit to the middle of the glacier, further on the moraines of Tuyuksu and Molodezhny Glaciers to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 10–12 hours.
Recommendations:
- Number of participants — not limited.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of Molodezhny Glacier.
- Departure from bivouac at 5:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2×40 m
- crampons — 4 pcs.
- ice axes — 4 pcs.
- ice screws — 4 pcs.
Author: Zhunusov B. Source: Book "Alpinistskie marshruty. Zailiyskiy Alatau".
Part 1
(1) 2A cat. cl. traverse
(1) 2A cat. cl. traverse