Tuyuksu via North Ridge from the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier, 3B cat.

Route description.

Cross the Tuyuksu glacier in its initial part, move to the right lateral moraine, reach the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier and follow it to the rocky ridge located on the north-north-eastern slope of the summit massif. The ascent begins here.

The first rock is bypassed on the right via a snowy-icy couloir with an exit to the saddle. Further, the path goes along easy rocks to a 15-meter rock wall, with piton belay.

A new section of easy rocks leads to a 20-meter rock wall. It can be overcome:

• via a narrow cornice on the left side
• on the right via inclined slabs (caution! "live" stones)

Bypass the gendarme, which has the shape of a tooth, on the right, move to the site, where the control point is located.

From the site, ascend steep, heavily destroyed rocks, reach the ridge with snowy ascents, which are overcome head-on. Behind them is the summit. Descent is possible via the ascent route or via the route 1B category of difficulty:

• via a large couloir
• through the Tuyuksu Pass

Time for ascent — 9–10 hours

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants — 4–6 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny Glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• main rope — 2×40 m
• ice screws — 2–3 pcs
• rock screws — 8–10 pcs
• hammers — 2 pcs (1) 36 к.т. по С ре­бру с л. Иглы Ту­юксу (1) 36 к.т. по С ре­бру с л. Иглы Ту­юксу

Author: Zhunusov B. Source: Book "Alpinistskie marshruty. Zailiyskiy Alatau". Part 1

From the Mountain.kz website