Chkalova, 1B cat. diff. from the west
Route description.
From the Chimbulak ski resort, ascend to the Talgar Pass. In the southeast direction, beyond the tongue of the Bogdanovich Glacier, the hanging Til Glacier is visible.
Follow the trail between Shkolnik Peak (on the right) and a rocky outcrop (on the left) to reach the glacier, and, crossing it, approach the rocks to the left of the Til Glacier. After traversing about 50 meters across the "ram's foreheads," reach an inclined ledge. Follow the ledge to reach a scree couloir, and ascend it to a snowy plateau.
Cross the plateau in an easterly direction and approach a couloir descending between the summit and the ridge. Moving up the couloir (avalanche risk!), reach a narrow couloir branching off to the left. Enter this couloir and ascend, turning right.
Continue up moderately difficult rock terrain to reach the summit.
Descend via the ascent route.
Recommendations:
- Number of participants: 8–10 people.
- Initial bivouac at Talgar Pass.
- Departure from bivouac at 6 a.m.
- Group equipment for 4 people:
- Main rope — 2 × 40 m
- Disposable cordelette — 4 m
- Rock pitons — 2 pieces
- Carabiners — 4 pieces
- Hammers — 1 piece
(1)
15 km from the west
Author: Zhunusov B. Source: Book "Alpinistskie marshruty. Zailiyskiy Alatau". Part 1
From mountain.kz website
