Fig. 13

Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours.

From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat.

Up the steep snow-ice slope:

• first to the right-upwards,
• then to the left-upwards,
• and along the snowy slope exit to the snow cushion between the northern контродфорсом Herzog and the rocky island.

Further:

• on the right side of the ridge,
• along the destroyed rocks,
• through low walls upwards (belay through ledges, местами крючьевая!) 300–320 m,
• exit to the left on the ridge crest,
• and along it ( loose rocks, belay!) to the summit.

From the bivouac to the summit 6–7 hours.

Descent along the ascent route (thorough belay!) to Dombayskaya Polyana takes 6–7 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac — Turiy Lake, on the rocks of Razdelny peak.
3. Time of departure from the bivouac — no later than 2–3 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2×30 m; b) expendable Repschnur — 2 m; c) rock pitons — 6–8; d) ice pitons — 2; e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8–10; g) crampons — 4 pairs.
5. Possible bivouac locations: 1st — on the plateau below the snow cushion; 2nd — on the snow cushion.