Route Description

The starting point of the route is described in the ascent description to the summit of Uchitel 2A cat. sl. from the East. Further path follows the ridge connecting both summits. The first and second gendarmes are bypassed on the left. The remaining ones are overcome head-on. Then a неслож­ный спуск (easy descent) into the pass, movement along the ridge to the very summit of Pioner.

The descent from the summit is to the left along the ridge to the Pioner­sky pass (3870 m), from it to the moraine of the Mametova glacier and along the trail to return to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac at the Alpin­grad site.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• main rope — 2×40 m
• expendable repschnur — 5–6 m
• rock pitons — 8 pcs.
• carabiners — 8 pcs.
• hammers — 2 pcs.

Uchitel — Pioner traverse of 2 summits from the East 3A cat. sl. 2B

From the Moun­tain.kz website