Partizan 2B cat. via West face from Ledik Igla
Route description.
The summit of Partizan is located in the main ridge of the Malo-Almatinsky spur. It rises with two rocky towers above its snowy-ice foundation.
From the south, the peak is connected to the peaks of Igly Tuyksu by a long, heavily serrated rocky ridge; to the north lies the peak of Ordzhonikidze. They are connected by a 200-meter snow-ice ridge with powerful cornices on its eastern side.
From here, the Partizan glacier flows down to the west.
The initial bivouac can be conveniently set up on the moraine of the Igly Tuyksu glacier. The ascent begins by approaching the base of the left snow-ice couloir adjacent to the massif of the Ordzhonikidze peak. Traverse the narrowest part of the couloir and exit onto the ice slope. Belaying is with pitons. Crampons are necessary. If the ice sections are heavily exposed, one can:
- turn left onto the rocks
- ascend them with piton belaying to the upper snowy slope
- move along the slope towards the northern tower of Partizan
The description of the route to the northern and southern towers of the summit is given in the following section.
Descent is via the ascent route.
The ascent takes 8-9 hours.
The first ascent was made by a group of instructors from the Central Asian School of Mountaineering Instructors in 1937, led by O. Aristov.
Recommendations:
- Number of participants — 4-6 people.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Igly Tuyksu glacier.
- Departure from bivouac at 5:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2×30 m
- expendable cordelette — 6 m
- rock pitons — 6 pcs.
- ice screws — 6 pcs.
- hammers — 2 pcs.
25 cat. difficulty from 3, from l. Igla (2)
35 cat. difficulty via N-W wall
Author: Zhunusov B. Source: Book "Climbing routes. Trans-Ili Alatau".
Part 1
From the website Mountain.kz