To the Classification Commission

Moscow City Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society

Ascent to peak "Vilnius" via the 3rd wall, made by the team of Moscow City Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society via route 4B cat. difficulty Pamir-Alay Fann Mountains, Arg gorge August 1976

I. Characteristics of the region and the object of ascent.

The mountain system that includes the Fann Mountains occupies an intermediate position between Tian Shan and Pamir and is called the Pamir-Alay. Ongoing mountain formation processes lead to significant folding disturbances. The actions of water and wind exacerbate these disturbances. All of this together affects the terrain. A large difference between winter and summer temperatures affects the formation of cracks. The ridges of the Fann Mountains have many walls reaching a height of two kilometers, canyons, and towers. The mountain crests abound with gendarmes and weakly fixed large blocks.

Назепо — bivouac — 3 vak becomes Nazepo — bivouac — 3 vak

Route Description

Ascent to v. Malaya Ganza via the northwestern ridge, category 2B. From the base camp, move up the valley along the left (orographic) bank of the Arg river. Cross the Suvtor river, which flows from the northwestern glacier (1 hour's walk from the camp), and continue along its left bank to the Yashnovaya river (30 minutes from the Suvtor river crossing). The path goes up a steep rocky scree. Move along the left (orographic) bank of the Yashnovaya river to the north, towards the "ram's foreheads" (baran'i lby). The "ram's foreheads" are steep and slippery; it's possible to move without being roped up, but with caution (snowy scree, rockfall, and heavily glaciated "ram's foreheads"):

• Snowy scree
• Rockfall
• "Ram's foreheads" are heavily glaciated Beyond the first stage of the "ram's foreheads", there's another scree slope, which is moderate and steep. To the left, the "ram's foreheads" continue as a ridge. Move up the scree slope and a cascade of waterfalls that descend from the next stage of the "ram's foreheads". Caution is necessary on this section due to rockfall and potential icefall, as the path lies beneath the tongue of the glacier.

In the up­per reaches, the val­ley is nar­rowed by snow, there are few trails. View of the summit and saddle see Fig. I. From the bivouac to Gusev's saddle — 4–4.5 hours of walking. From Gusev's saddle, move straight up in the direction of and along the ridge between Pik Chyorny and v. N. Ganz. At the glacier's ascent, there are many hazardous sections on the ridge, partially covered with snow. Movement without crampons is possible. One should move in rope teams, with occasional use of transverse belay. From the ridge, move left onto the snowy ascent (2 ropes), then to the summit (2 ropes), which is a rocky ridge: to the north and northeast — a firn dome, divided by a small saddle into western and eastern summits, both having small rocky outcrops. The summit drops off with sheer rocky walls to the north and southwest. Time from Gusev's saddle to the summit — 2–2.5 hours. In good weather, the summit offers a panorama of all the peaks in the Sansarsky Mountains system. To the northeast, the massive array of Bolshaya Gavza is visible, along with the spurs of the pyramid of Pik Krasnykh Zor. To the north and northeast are visible:

• Pik Chyorny,
• p. Zarnok,
• Meropo,
• v. Chintarga,
• p. Energiya,

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing
2. Climbing area, ridge — Arga area
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Heroes of the Kursk Battle (approximately) 4110 m via NW edge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 610 m length of sections with III–IV difficulty category — 300 m with an average steepness of 62° average steepness 41°

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route —
   • Dukdon Glavny, 5080 m, right part of the northern wall, first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1330 m,
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 704 m,
   • average steepness — 72°.

Dukdon — Central Peak, category 5B difficulty

Route Map

Description of the Ascent to Dukdon Peak, category 5B difficulty

The Dukdon peak, with an elevation of 5200 m, is located in the Fann Mountains of the Pamiro-Alay region. The Fann Mountains are characterized by fault-block structures without pronounced foldings. The main Zeravshan ridge lies aside. The Dukdon massif stretches approximately 15 km in a latitudinal direction and includes several peaks above 5000 m. The group targeted the central peak from which a southern spur branches off, transitioning into a parallel ridge. The approach to Dukdon begins from the village of Dji-Djik, where the motorable road ends. The route continues:

1. Along the Iskander-Darya River (3 hours).
2. Around Iskander-Kul Lake (1 hour).

Central Council “Zenit”

Traverse of Dukdon Massif (first ascent)

N 418, October 13, 1970 5B

Team Captain Moiseev Yu. Team Coach Baskin S.

2. Simonik A. G.
3. Druy M. G.
4. Pisarev K. L.
5. Solodkov Yu. K.
6. Kopenningene L.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area - 5,3 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route

• Jonatar, 4300 m, via SW ridge

4. Estimated difficulty category - 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 250 m, average slope 55° on ascent, section lengths - I 100 m, II 150 m, III 240 m, IV 20 m, VI m.
6. Number of pitons driven: for belay for creating belay points rock - 34 ice - -

Ascent Passport

1. Sports organization — MGS DSO "Spartak".
2. Ascent category — technical.
3. Ascent area — Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alay.
4. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak Jinatar 4400 m, north-eastern ridge.
5. Ascent description: a) height difference 700 m. (III cat. diff. — 490 m, IV cat. diff. — 270 m, V cat. diff. — 260 m); b) average steepness 65°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying — rock 90, ice —, bolted —; for creating I.T.O. — 5.
7. Total climbing time: 11 hours.