To the memory of our friends, lost in the mountains...

Report on the First Ascent to the Summit 3593 m, Peak Spasately

Climbing Passport.

1. Caucasus. Tsey Range. Section number in the Classification 2.7.
2. p. 3593 m (Peak Spasately) — via the Southwest Ridge.
3. Proposed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock.
5. Height difference of the route — 400 m. Total route length — about 600 m. Length of sections with 3rd category of difficulty — 20 m. Steepness of key sections — 70°. Average steepness of the route — 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route — none.

Peak Cherevichenko - route description.

1. Approaches. From Vladikavkaz, take a vehicle to Tsey valley, then to Verkhniy Tsey village, after which move along the dirt road leading to the repeater. Before the last turn of the road directly to the repeater - there is a fork, the left branch goes off, with a spring as a landmark. Turn left, move another 2-3 km to the end of the road leading to the abandoned adit. A 4WD vehicle can ascend almost to the place where the road is blocked by a stone (there is a turnaround area). From there, move another 20 minutes along the road to the adit. Below the adit, a wide shelf is cut into the ground, where several tents can easily fit. There is water directly in the adit.

2) Route.

From the adit, move along a faintly expressed ridge (grassland, category 2 rocks) to the NE ridge of Peak Cherevichenko. Having reached the ridge, move southwest along the ridge line, in the direction of Pik Sadon. To Pik Sadon - category 2-3 rocks.

Description of the route condition to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B complexity. The nature of the route as of September 2015:

• snow-ice
• rock sections do not present technical difficulties.

Approaches

Get to the village of Verkhniy Koni, register at the border outpost (the summit is located in the border area, to make ascents you need to obtain a permit to enter the border zone in the established form, it's better to do this in advance), then go up to the village of Tmenikau, 2 km further up the gorge — there's a border post, this is the farthest point you can reach by car. From the border post:

• A gentle, wide trail (formerly a geological road) goes up the Genaldon gorge
• The trail leads to the warm mineral springs in front of the tongue of the Maili glacier
• This is where the base camp for ascents to Mt. Kazbek from the north is located
• There are places for tents and water

St. Petersburg Climbing Championship 2018 High-Altitude Class

Report on the Ascent to the Summit of Peak Korzhenevskaya via the South Ridge (Tsetlin, 1966) 5A Category of Difficulty

Team Coach: S.A. Semiletkin Team Leader: F.M. Zaliev Team Members:

• A.S. Dusheiko
• S.V. Livandev, St. Petersburg 2018

Ascent Passport

• Region: PAMIR Area: Academy of Sciences Range (western side of Fedchenko Glacier from Yazglemsky Pass in the south to Muksu River in the north with all lateral spurs) Peak Name: Peak Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m

86

THIS ASCENT IS DEDICATED TO THE MEMBERS OF THE GROUP WHO DIED ON PIK PATRIOT IN 1953 Protocol No. 201 dated November 2, 1962 5B+1

Description of the Ascent to Pik Patriot

Ascent to Pik Patriot via the western ridge (Pamir, Garmo Glacier), July 1962. Group of the joint Soviet-British expedition to Pamir. July 26, 1962. Pik Patriot is located in the Academy of Sciences Range (Fig. 1). The first ascent to Pik Patriot (then known as Peak 6350 m) was made by a group of climbers from the "Lokomotiv" society led by B. Garf in 1950 via the southwest ridge, categorized as 5B. Garf, with the aim of scouting approaches to Pik Kommunizma, ascended to the upper cirque below Pik Patriot (photo 2) to traverse the spur extending from the Academy of Sciences Range (the western ridge of Pik Patriot). Garf wrote about the ascent options to Pik Patriot: "It was not possible to traverse the spur: it rose as a 300-meter wall (see photo 3)."

Vanch Range

UNNAMED PEAK 5231 m (previously 5211)! (FIRST ASCENT) VIA WEST RIDGE ROUTE APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 5A DIFFICULTY

Team Composition

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent Category

High-altitude and technical.

2. Ascent Region

Shakhdarin Range. South-West Pamir.

3. Ascent Route with Indication of Peaks and Elevations

Peak TadGU, 6183 m, via the East-South-East wall, 6B category of difficulty.

4. Ascent Characteristics

Elevation gain — approximately 1000 m, average steepness — 75°, length of complex section — 500 m.

5. Number of Pitons Driven

Fig. 28