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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Adyge­ne, the highest point of the Jalal-Abad ridge of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, from the Ala-Archa alpine camp.

The summit of Adygenе is located in the upper reaches of the eponymous gorge on the northern slope of the central part of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range. It is the highest point of the Dzhalamysh spur. North of the Adygenе peak in this spur stands the peak Agitatorov (1A cat. diff.); the ridge branching off from it to the east leads to the summit Elektro (1B cat. diff.). Between the peak Adygenе and the peak Elektro lies the Adygenе pass (1B cat. diff., 4030 m). To the west from the peak Adygenе a short ridge branches off. The western slopes of the summit are cut off by steep rocky walls. The northern slope is a hanging glacier flowing into the Tez-Tor glacier. The summit Adygenе is well visible from the Ala-Archa gorge and from the city of Bishkek. From here (from the north-east and from the north) it looks like an icy pyramid. From the very base of the Alplager "Ala-Archa" the peak Adygenе is a qualifying summit for beginner climbers. The path to the summit from the Alplager "Ala-Archa" lies through the Adygenе gorge. The mouth of this gorge is 900–950 m below the camp. Adygenе is a left tributary of the Ala-Archa river. On the right (orographically) side of the Adygenе gorge there is an intricate and well-trodden trail that goes through a forest of Tian Shan spruce. Then it leads climbers through a rich tall-grass meadow, some plants of which reach human height. Beyond the tall-grass meadow, the trail winds above the river at a height of about 100 m, passing through a subalpine meadow, then descends to the river a little above the confluence of the Adygenе and Tez-Tor rivers. Here the Adygenе river can be easily forded across the stones, and further on the trail goes to the end along the left bank of the Adygenе river. At the terminal moraine of the glacier there is a convenient area for a large bivouac, the so-called "Elektro" campsite. It is:

  • safe,
  • has a stream with clean water,
  • can easily accommodate several teams.
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Route description to the summit of Nazepo, third overnight stay, with photographs and key information on the passage of the path.

Назепо — bivouac — 3 vak becomes Nazepo — bivouac — 3 vak

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First ascent of Peak Aktubek (5125 m) via the right counterfort of the north face, category 5A difficulty, with a detailed route description and photographs.

Ascent Log

  1. Technical category.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-su valley.
  3. Peak Aktyubek (5125 m) via the right counterfort of the North face.
  4. Proposed category 5A, first ascent.
  5. Height difference — 1325 m. Total length: 2435 m, sections of category 5 — 200 m. Slope: overall on the route — 38°, on the wall section — 50°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock — 25, ice — 11. Chocks placed — 34.
  7. Number of travel days — 3, hours — 24.
  8. Number of bivouacs on the route — 2 (both convenient, in a tent).
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