Route Description

Ascent to v. Malaya Ganza via the northwestern ridge, category 2B.

From the base camp, move up the valley along the left (orographic) bank of the Arg river.

Cross the Suvtor river, which flows from the northwestern glacier (1 hour's walk from the camp), and continue along its left bank to the Yashnovaya river (30 minutes from the Suvtor river crossing).

The path goes up a steep rocky scree. Move along the left (orographic) bank of the Yashnovaya river to the north, towards the "ram's foreheads" (baran'i lby).

The "ram's foreheads" are steep and slippery; it's possible to move without being roped up, but with caution (snowy scree, rockfall, and heavily glaciated "ram's foreheads"):

• Snowy scree
• Rockfall
• "Ram's foreheads" are heavily glaciated

Beyond the first stage of the "ram's foreheads", there's another scree slope, which is moderate and steep. To the left, the "ram's foreheads" continue as a ridge. Move up the scree slope and a cascade of waterfalls that descend from the next stage of the "ram's foreheads". Caution is necessary on this section due to rockfall and potential icefall, as the path lies beneath the tongue of the glacier.

At the level of the waterfalls lies the second stage of the "ram's foreheads". Having ascended to the scree slope beneath the overhanging rusty rock wall (to the right), move left towards the "ram's foreheads", which are cleverly positioned in the middle of the scree slope.

Continue upwards: first across the "ram's foreheads", then along the scree slope towards the gently sloping ridge of "ram's foreheads" — a waterfall — on the left. About 300 meters before reaching it, there's a campsite for two tents.

From the Yashnovaya river to the campsite, it's a 2 hour 30 minute walk; from the base camp, it's 4 hours.

Early in the morning, move up the steep snow slope, then across the tongue of the glacier (keeping to the left) to reach the middle of the glacier. Move in teams. In the middle reaches, the glacier is open. To the right:

• The northern walls of M. Ganza frequently produce icefalls
• Glaciers lying on the adjacent slopes

By moving across the middle of the glacier, reach the Rusev saddle (4600 m)