In the upper reaches, the valley is narrowed by snow, there are few trails. View of the summit and saddle see Fig. I. From the bivouac to Gusev's saddle — 4–4.5 hours of walking.
From Gusev's saddle, move straight up in the direction of and along the ridge between Pik Chyorny and v. N. Ganz. At the glacier's ascent, there are many hazardous sections on the ridge, partially covered with snow. Movement without crampons is possible. One should move in rope teams, with occasional use of transverse belay. From the ridge, move left onto the snowy ascent (2 ropes), then to the summit (2 ropes), which is a rocky ridge: to the north and northeast — a firn dome, divided by a small saddle into western and eastern summits, both having small rocky outcrops. The summit drops off with sheer rocky walls to the north and southwest.
Time from Gusev's saddle to the summit — 2–2.5 hours.
In good weather, the summit offers a panorama of all the peaks in the Sansarsky Mountains system. To the northeast, the massive array of Bolshaya Gavza is visible, along with the spurs of the pyramid of Pik Krasnykh Zor.
To the north and northeast are visible:
- Pik Chyorny,
- p. Zarnok,
- Meropo,
- v. Chintarga,
- p. Energiya,
- p. Sakharnaya golova,
- p. Krasnaya Kosvka.
Descent follows the ascent route — 2 hours. Total estimated time:
- from the base camp to the bivouac — 4 hours,
- from the bivouac to v. M. Ganz — 6–7 hours,
- descent from the summit to the bivouac — 2 hours,
- from the bivouac to the base camp — 1.5–2 hours, i.e., around 15:00 work hours.