Пик Сибирский is located in the northwestern spur of the Dukdsan massif. Its height is 4900 m. The peak has several ridges descending into the Archa-Mapdan and Sary-Khodok river gorges. The group planned a route along the northwest ridge. The initial impression of the route is deceptive. The ridge appears to be quite gentle. Its considerable length is not immediately apparent, as the ridge's bends are not visible. Due to the virtual overlap of parallel ridges, it is difficult to discern the actual relief of the route. The lack of clear visibility is confirmed by previous attempts to traverse this route. One group from our expedition, expecting a one-day ascent, turned back after reaching the "Mirror". Additionally, a note from 1954, left by a group from the "Varzob" alpine camp led by A.A. Kuznetsov, was found on the ridge, indicating that they had reached the "Mirror" with one overnight stay. They rated the completed part of the route as 4A category of difficulty and refused to continue the ascent. All this helped us to correctly assess the route and determine the duration of the ascent.

Route Description

July 18, 1968. We left the base camp at 8:00. The ascent to the snow-ice couloir takes 2 hours. The couloir is passable in the first half of the day, as the risk of rockfall increases later. Ascent:

• 4 ropes on snow, местами по льду с рубкой ступеней
• Steepness 4С–5С

Navigation is difficult (3 pitons). After the chimney, we reach the shoulder. From the shoulder upwards along the ruined rocks and talus, we reach the ridge. On the right, just below the ridge, on a rocky ledge, is the 1st control point. Further along the ruined rocky ridge, we pass to a monolithic rocky ridge, which we knock down from the left, descending onto a snowfield (photo 1). Along the snowfield with a steepness of 30° (3 ropes), we ascend to the talus leading to a section of gray moistened rocks - the "Ram's Foreheads". From the ridge to the "Ram's Foreheads", 4 hours are spent. Taking slightly to the right from the ridge, we approach a couloir made of red stone with an overhanging rock above. This section is the first to be passed without a rope. Navigation is difficult: 7 m (2 pitons). After the couloir, we emerge onto an inclined shelf with talus. From here, a traverse of the steep right wall of the "Ram's Foreheads" begins (photo 2). The traverse (6 ropes) requires great physical and moral tension. The belay is piton (14 pitons). The last выступ of the "Ram's Foreheads" can be passed by making a traverse slightly downwards, but at the end, there is a very difficult exit to the ridge. It is easier to continue moving upwards along a barely discernible inclined shelf (6 m, 2 pitons) with an exit to the ridge. 15 m along the ridge and a steep descent into a gap. The "Ram's Foreheads" are passed in 4 hours. Further movement along the ridge with alternating belay through ledges (150 m). We approach a large inclined slab (45–50°). We pass the slab in the lower part, where there are good handholds (40 m, 1 piton). After the slab, there is a small descent along the couloir, and then an ascent along a steep, loose talus, 50 m, and we find ourselves on a large rocky plateau before the "Mirror". On the plateau is the 2nd control point and an overnight stay. Time: 19:00. July 19, 1963. At 9:00, we approached the "Mirror" (photo 3).

The traverse goes right 1 cm with an exit to a heavily destroyed shelf. Along the shelf to the left with a crack in the inner corner. To the left is an overhanging wall. The entrance is along the right wall (12 m). Steepness 80° (3 hooks). We enter a sloping wet stone. Then we follow along the ridge of a snow patch with a steepness of 60° (20 m, one hook). We exit onto an inclined shelf with wet snow turned to ice. After the shelf, there is an inner corner with a crack (15–20 m, 5 hooks). Difficult climbing, few footholds (photo 4). After the corner, there is a shelf with good ledges for belay. It took 4 hours to overcome these sections. From the shelf with alternating belay, we exit onto the ridge. Along the ridge, we approach the "Ыандарum". We bypass it on the right along the way, along small shelves (50–60 m). Then, along a 20 m crack (60°), we exit again onto the ridge. Along the ridge with alternating belay, we approach the second "Ыандарum", which is overcome directly. The ascent is 25 m, rocks of medium difficulty, steepness 60–70° (2 hooks). Descent from the "Ыандарum" is 15 m. There follows a new wave of the ridge with a steepness of 70–75° (2 ropes, 2 hooks). Further along the snowy ridge, 4 ropes with alternating belay through an ice axe. Again, a rocky ridge, which leads to a heavily destroyed gully. Descent along the gully to a rocky ridge with a width of 4–5 m and a length of 10 m. Stesova, having fixed a rope, descends 20 m down, onto the pre-summit ridge. Traversing to the right, she exits onto a steeply rising pre-summit ridge. Climbing of medium difficulty with alternating belay, in some places simultaneous movement is possible. After 6 ropes, she exits onto the summit. Time 17:40, they dismantled the cairn. By the right of the first ascenders, they named the summit peak "Сибирский" (Sibirskiy). The descent is via the ascent route. At the key section, they had to leave two hooks with loops.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent classification: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak: Skalnaya Wall (4800 m), route via the Eastern ridge 4. Difficulty category: 4B 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — about 1400 m. Average slope — about 30°. Section lengths: 2nd difficulty category ≈ 1100 m, 3rd difficulty category ≈ 800 m, 4th difficulty category ≈ 550 m. 6. Pitons hammered for safety: rock — 33 (out of which for creating artificial footholds — 0), chocks — 4

Report

on the first traverse of the peak Skalnaya Stena from west to east with an exit to the ridge along the counterfort of the southern wall from the Dvoynoy pass, category 5A (approximately) in the account of the Volga Region mountaineering championship. August 1-2, 1968, Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay.

I. Characteristics of the Area

Between the Gissar and Zeravshan ridges of the Pamir-Alay rises a cluster of short but high ridges - the Fan Mountains. The main ridge of the Fan range stretches from west to east in a continuous arc, convex to the south. It is intersected by two indistinctly expressed meridional ridges:

• the western one - with the Laudan pass (in the north) and the Dukdan pass (in the south);
• the eastern one - from the Pasrud River (in the north) to Lake Iskanderkul. At the intersections of these ridges are the highest peaks of the range - Chimtarga (5487 m) - the main peak of the area, located in the western node, and Big Ganiza (5415 m) - in the eastern node. The main ridges of the Fan range are composed of metamorphosed limestones, lying in thick strata. The weathered rocks of the peaks are very brittle. Rockfalls are a constant phenomenon in the Fan Mountains. The forms of rock weathering often have a superficial, pockmarked character. Such rock sections are very convenient to pass in rubber boots.

Report

The teams of climbers from the Kuibyshev Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on the "Skalnaya стена" peak via the southern wall from the "Khoroshevsky" pass, category 4B-5A (approximately). July 30 - August 1, 1968, Fann Mountains. Protocol No. 293 dated 10.XII.68. Category 4B. The group is credited with a first ascent. Tolyatti

Route map

68

To the classification commission of the USSR Alpinism Federation

The route was included in the table according to a note made by V. Tselovakhin's group (1968), which passed the route to the ridge via Svido. (They named it via the S wall). The commission erroneously believed that both groups had passed the same route (this route — via the NW wall). The commission did not have S. Morozov's report.

• V. Shulepin
• April 20, 1984

Fann Mountains

Description of the first ascent: Skalnaya Stena peak – 5112 m, combined route via the north-west wall, 5B category of complexity. Completed on August 8–12, 1967, by a group organized by the sports club "GRANIT". Ascent leader — Master of Sports MOROZOV S.A.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION № 292 dated October 3, 1968 5A+Б It is given The route has not been entered, apparently, into the classification table of routes, as it was mistakenly believed that this same route was first passed by a group led by S. Morozov, who is listed in the table. V. Yumikevich April 26, 1984

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. ASCENT CLASS — technical.
2. ASCENT REGION — Pamir-Alay.
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Skalnaya Stena, 5112, via the left part of the center of the North face.
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference — 810 m, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 220 m, «––» — 5th cat. diff. — 430 m,

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains. Imat Valley.
3. Peak 4150 m "Stimul".
4. Proposed 1B category difficulty first ascent.
5. Height difference 250 m.
6. Climbing time 1.5 hours.
7. Team: Baykovsky Yu.V. MS. Pilkevich A.V. Gupalov A.V.