PASSPORT

  1. Rock climbing category
  2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains. Imat Valley.
  3. Peak 4150 m "Stimul".
  4. Proposed 1B category difficulty first ascent.
  5. Height difference 250 m.
  6. Climbing time 1.5 hours.
  7. Team: Baykovsky Yu.V. MS. Pilkevich A.V. Gupalov A.V. Moskovkin A.V.
  8. Coach: Baykovsky Yu.V. MS 1st category.
  9. Ascent made on August 31, 1993.
  10. Organization: State Committee of the Republic of Tajikistan for Physical Culture and Sports, Association of Alpinism, Rock Climbing and Travel of Tajikistan.

Overview of the Ascent Area

Peak 4150 m, proposed name "Stimul", is located in the Imat glacier area, in the same ridge as peaks Bolshaya Ganzya, Linkor, Kibron, Pik Nezavisimosti Tadzhikistana, Sarof.

Before the ascent, the peak did not have an official name. It consists of destroyed limestone. The northern side is bordered by a powerful rock bastion, on which routes of 3-4 category difficulty can be laid. The southern slopes are talus slopes and a destroyed rock massif.

The route from Dushanbe goes through the Anzob pass to the town of Zeravshan-2. Then turn left into the Pasrud-Dara valley. Drive to the village of Pasrud (6 km) and to the upper village of Marguzor. From it 4 km to the fork and bridge ("Sangi-Safed"). From the fork 1 km along the road to the summer pastures. Then along the trail on the right side of the river 2-2.5 hours to the summer pastures and another 30 minutes to suitable places for organizing a camp. A wide cirque of the Imat glacier with birch and juniper groves.

From the base camp, go up the upper slopes to the Nizhny Zinat pass (height 2800 m) in 2-2.5 hours. From the pass, 1 hour to the saddle between peak 4150 m and Pik "Nezavisimosti Tadzhikistana". There is ice on the saddle.

Overall, the area is promising in terms of sports. Convenient places for organizing a base camp. Plenty of firewood. There are unclimbed peaks and routes of 1-5 category difficulty.

Route Description

From the saddle, the peak and the entire ascent route are clearly visible. Move along the talus shelves and rocks in the direction of the peak for 200 m. Reach the rocky ridge. Go up 100 m along the ridge. The rocks are destroyed. Descent from the peak to the southwest to the Nizhny Zinat pass. The ascent takes 1.5-2 hours.

Photo of peak Stimul (4150 m) from the west

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Attached files

Sources

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