Republican Climbing Club

Council of the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations

Kazakh SSR

Report

On the ascent of Peak Sugar Head (4971 m) via the northeast edge (Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alay) (First ascent) Alma-Ata 1966 

Photo #1

NORTHEAST EDGE OF PEAK

Ascent Description of Sugar Loaf Peak via the Central Part of the East Face

Approximately 5–6 category of difficulty. The route was traversed by a group of participants from the LETI alpinade named after V.I. Ulyanov (Lenin). FAN MOUNTAINS, Leningrad, 1974 Peak Sugar Loaf (4971 m) from the east.

2. Brief Geographical Description of the Area and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Sugar Loaf peak (4971 m above sea level) is located in the Zeravshan ridge (Fan Mountains). The section of the ridge where the peak is situated serves as a watershed for the basins of the following rivers:

• Akhbasoi (to the east)

Ascent Passport

I. Technical Climbing Category. 2. Area 5.3. Zeravshan Range. 3. Peak Sakharnaya Golova (4971 m), via the right buttress of the North face. 4. 5-6 difficulty category. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 970 m average steepness — 65°, section lengths: I difficulty level — 120 m, II difficulty level — 40 m, III difficulty level — 200 m, IV difficulty level — 430 m, V-VI difficulty level — 465 m 6. Pitons driven: for belaying — rock: 71, ice: 16, chocks: 14; for creating artificial anchors — rock: 3. 7. Total climbing hours — 24. 8. Two bivouacs on the route on platforms without a tent.

ASCENT DOCUMENT 60a

1. Climbing type — rock.
2. Climbing area, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Sakharnaya Golova, 4971 m, via the "table" (center of the north face).
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1000 m, b) length of 5B category sections — 675 m ("pillar"). c) average steepness: "pillar" — 75°, route — 65°.
6. Pitons hammered: a) rock — 148, b) ice — 28, c) bolted — none.
7. Number of climbing hours — 31 h.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — 2 (1 — lying, 2 — semi-reclining).

1. Sports organization: Sports club of Moscow Aviation Institute
2. Ascent class: Technical
3. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains
4. Ascent route: Peak Sakharnaya Golova (4971 m) via the "pillar" (center of the north face)
5. Ascent characteristics: a) height difference 990 m (1095 and 65°); b) average steepness: 1) "pillar" — 75°, 2) route — 65°; c) length of the "pillar" — 675 m
6. Pitons driven: a) rock — 132 pcs., b) ice — 35 pcs., c) expansion bolts — none
7. Number of climbing hours: 42 hours

61

DESCRIPTION

Ascent to the peak Selegrad, cat. III first ascent via the South-West ridge Peak Selegrad. Start of the ascent to the South-West ridge. --- previously traversed route, cat. III

Пик Сибирский is located in the northwestern spur of the Dukdsan massif. Its height is 4900 m. The peak has several ridges descending into the Archa-Mapdan and Sary-Khodok river gorges. The group planned a route along the northwest ridge. The initial impression of the route is deceptive. The ridge appears to be quite gentle. Its considerable length is not immediately apparent, as the ridge's bends are not visible. Due to the virtual overlap of parallel ridges, it is difficult to discern the actual relief of the route. The lack of clear visibility is confirmed by previous attempts to traverse this route. One group from our expedition, expecting a one-day ascent, turned back after reaching the "Mirror". Additionally, a note from 1954, left by a group from the "Varzob" alpine camp led by A.A. Kuznetsov, was found on the ridge, indicating that they had reached the "Mirror" with one overnight stay. They rated the completed part of the route as 4A category of difficulty and refused to continue the ascent. All this helped us to correctly assess the route and determine the duration of the ascent.

Route Description

July 18, 1968. We left the base camp at 8:00. The ascent to the snow-ice couloir takes 2 hours. The couloir is passable in the first half of the day, as the risk of rockfall increases later. Ascent:

• 4 ropes on snow, местами по льду с рубкой ступеней
• Steepness 4С–5С

Navigation is difficult (3 pitons). After the chimney, we reach the shoulder. From the shoulder upwards along the ruined rocks and talus, we reach the ridge. On the right, just below the ridge, on a rocky ledge, is the 1st control point. Further along the ruined rocky ridge, we pass to a monolithic rocky ridge, which we knock down from the left, descending onto a snowfield (photo 1). Along the snowfield with a steepness of 30° (3 ropes), we ascend to the talus leading to a section of gray moistened rocks - the "Ram's Foreheads". From the ridge to the "Ram's Foreheads", 4 hours are spent. Taking slightly to the right from the ridge, we approach a couloir made of red stone with an overhanging rock above. This section is the first to be passed without a rope. Navigation is difficult: 7 m (2 pitons). After the couloir, we emerge onto an inclined shelf with talus. From here, a traverse of the steep right wall of the "Ram's Foreheads" begins (photo 2). The traverse (6 ropes) requires great physical and moral tension. The belay is piton (14 pitons). The last выступ of the "Ram's Foreheads" can be passed by making a traverse slightly downwards, but at the end, there is a very difficult exit to the ridge. It is easier to continue moving upwards along a barely discernible inclined shelf (6 m, 2 pitons) with an exit to the ridge. 15 m along the ridge and a steep descent into a gap. The "Ram's Foreheads" are passed in 4 hours. Further movement along the ridge with alternating belay through ledges (150 m). We approach a large inclined slab (45–50°). We pass the slab in the lower part, where there are good handholds (40 m, 1 piton). After the slab, there is a small descent along the couloir, and then an ascent along a steep, loose talus, 50 m, and we find ourselves on a large rocky plateau before the "Mirror". On the plateau is the 2nd control point and an overnight stay. Time: 19:00. July 19, 1963. At 9:00, we approached the "Mirror" (photo 3).

The traverse goes right 1 cm with an exit to a heavily destroyed shelf. Along the shelf to the left with a crack in the inner corner. To the left is an overhanging wall. The entrance is along the right wall (12 m). Steepness 80° (3 hooks). We enter a sloping wet stone. Then we follow along the ridge of a snow patch with a steepness of 60° (20 m, one hook). We exit onto an inclined shelf with wet snow turned to ice. After the shelf, there is an inner corner with a crack (15–20 m, 5 hooks). Difficult climbing, few footholds (photo 4). After the corner, there is a shelf with good ledges for belay. It took 4 hours to overcome these sections. From the shelf with alternating belay, we exit onto the ridge. Along the ridge, we approach the "Ыандарum". We bypass it on the right along the way, along small shelves (50–60 m). Then, along a 20 m crack (60°), we exit again onto the ridge. Along the ridge with alternating belay, we approach the second "Ыандарum", which is overcome directly. The ascent is 25 m, rocks of medium difficulty, steepness 60–70° (2 hooks). Descent from the "Ыандарum" is 15 m. There follows a new wave of the ridge with a steepness of 70–75° (2 ropes, 2 hooks). Further along the snowy ridge, 4 ropes with alternating belay through an ice axe. Again, a rocky ridge, which leads to a heavily destroyed gully. Descent along the gully to a rocky ridge with a width of 4–5 m and a length of 10 m. Stesova, having fixed a rope, descends 20 m down, onto the pre-summit ridge. Traversing to the right, she exits onto a steeply rising pre-summit ridge. Climbing of medium difficulty with alternating belay, in some places simultaneous movement is possible. After 6 ropes, she exits onto the summit. Time 17:40, they dismantled the cairn. By the right of the first ascenders, they named the summit peak "Сибирский" (Sibirskiy). The descent is via the ascent route. At the key section, they had to leave two hooks with loops.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent classification: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak: Skalnaya Wall (4800 m), route via the Eastern ridge 4. Difficulty category: 4B 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — about 1400 m. Average slope — about 30°. Section lengths: 2nd difficulty category ≈ 1100 m, 3rd difficulty category ≈ 800 m, 4th difficulty category ≈ 550 m. 6. Pitons hammered for safety: rock — 33 (out of which for creating artificial footholds — 0), chocks — 4