Пик Сибирский is located in the northwestern spur of the Dukdsan massif. Its height is 4900 m. The peak has several ridges descending into the Archa-Mapdan and Sary-Khodok river gorges.

The group planned a route along the northwest ridge.

The initial impression of the route is deceptive. The ridge appears to be quite gentle. Its considerable length is not immediately apparent, as the ridge's bends are not visible. Due to the virtual overlap of parallel ridges, it is difficult to discern the actual relief of the route.

The lack of clear visibility is confirmed by previous attempts to traverse this route. One group from our expedition, expecting a one-day ascent, turned back after reaching the "Mirror". Additionally, a note from 1954, left by a group from the "Varzob" alpine camp led by A.A. Kuznetsov, was found on the ridge, indicating that they had reached the "Mirror" with one overnight stay. They rated the completed part of the route as 4A category of difficulty and refused to continue the ascent.

All this helped us to correctly assess the route and determine the duration of the ascent.

Route Description

July 18, 1968. We left the base camp at 8:00. The ascent to the snow-ice couloir takes 2 hours. The couloir is passable in the first half of the day, as the risk of rockfall increases later.

Ascent:

• 4 ropes on snow, местами по льду с рубкой ступеней
• Steepness 4С–5С
• Staying on the right side of the couloir, we approach the overhanging slabs
• The first person overcomes a 3-meter wall with belay
• The rest ascend on the fixed ropes
• A short traverse across icy slabs
• Again, ascent on snow and ice for 2 ropes

Traverse the couloir to the left, cutting steps, and exit onto a wide rock ledge 30–60 m long. Movement along the ledge is simultaneous.

Further:

• 2 ropes on moderately difficult rock to a vertical chimney 5 m high.