Ascent Log

1. Ascent type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya, 4200 m, East Face (M.L. Mishilyaev).
4. Difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 800 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 200 m, average steepness 70°.
6. Pitons driven:

Introduction

Peak Volnaya Ispaniya is located in the central part of the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks Bzhedukh and Ullu-Kara, and is very popular among both Soviet and foreign mountaineers. The most interesting and challenging routes, climbed in the right part of the eastern wall (Subbotovich, Myshlyaev), have repeatedly received awards and have rightfully earned recognition as classics. The first ascent of the left part of the eastern wall was made in 1978 by a team from the Bauman Moscow State Technical University and received an award. Since the route was only classified at the end of 1979, it did not gain much popularity and was repeated only in June 1980, although its technical difficulty and logic (it follows a nearly direct line) are no less than those of previously climbed routes on this wall. TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE

Protocol No. 20

Ascent

Debriefing of the group of instructors from the "Shkhielda" alpine camp led by Parshin V.S. on peak Volnaya Ispaniya via route 5B cat. sl. (Kolomyttsev's route on the left part of the eastern wall) on June 16, 1980. Attendees:

• Release supervisor Shepalova G.N.
• Head of the rescue camp Barulin B.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge, section 2.4.32.
2. Volnaya Ispaniya peak, 4271 m, via N wall (V. Kizel, 1952).
3. Difficulty category — 5B.
4. Route character — combined.
5. Route height difference — 500 m; Route length — 800 m; Length of sections:
   • V difficulty category — 55 m
   • VI difficulty category — 40 m

Passport

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range.
3. Peak Volnaya Spain, via North face, 4200 m.
4. Category 5B difficulty.
5. Elevation gain: 400 m, length 600 m. Length of sections: 5th category – 140 m. 6th category – 20 m. Average steepness of the route – 54°, average steepness of the key section – 80°.
6. Hooks left on the route – 2 pcs.

ASCENT REPORT

1. Category: winter ascent.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyl-SU gorge.
3. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya via the North face (Kizel's route).
4. Difficulty category: 5B.
5. Height difference — 580 m, length — 850 m, out of which 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 110 m. Average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons used: Ice screws: 38 (0) Rock pitons: 5 (0) Existing bolted pitons on the route (6 pieces) were used for belaying.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — winter.
2. Ascent area: North Caucasus.
3. Peak, route: p. Volnaya Ispaniya, 4200 m, V. Kizel's route.
4. Category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Height difference: –580 m, route length — 850 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 120 m. Average steepness of the route — 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock – 16/4, chocks – 27/7, ice screws – 27, bolt pitons – 4/3*. Left on the route: bolt piton – 1, chock – 1.
7. Team's working hours: 18 hours and days – 2.
8. Overnight stay: sitting, on ice ledges.

Ascent Log

1. Region of ascent: Central Caucasus.
2. Object of ascent: peak Volnaya Ispaniya.
3. Route: via the north face (Vladimir Kizel, 1952).
4. Difficulty category: 5B.
5. Climbing hours — 22 days — 3
6. Overnights – 2, the first before the rock chimney, the second on the "крыша" (roof).
7. Departure for the route January 4th at 7:00 AM. Reached the summit January 6th at 11:00 AM.

Ascent Record

1. Category: Technical
2. Ascent Area: Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su valley
3. Peak: Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m)
4. Route: via North-Eastern edge (B. Subartovich route), Category 5B, 2.4.34
5. Elevation Gain: — 535 m Distance: — 720 m Length of Category VI sections: — 70 m Average steepness of the main route section: — 73 degrees entire route: — 62 degrees

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus
2. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya via North-Eastern Edge
3. 5B
4. Combined
5. Height difference: 600 m (3600–4200) Route length: 825 m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty – 170 m, VI category of difficulty – 15 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 70°
6. Hooks left on the route: 0 Hooks used on the route: 12. Artificial holds used: 13

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak: Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m) via the NE edge.
4. Category 5B complexity (Subortovich route)
5. Route characteristics: Average steepness of the main wall section — 78°. Average steepness — 48°. Height difference — 480 m. Length of sections: Category difficulty section — 135 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: | rock | ice | bolt | chocks | |:----:|:---:|:------:|:-----:| | 18 + 11^X | 7 | 2^X | 19 |