Ascent Log

1. Ascent type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya, 4200 m, East Face (M.L. Mishilyaev).
4. Difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 800 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 200 m, average steepness 70°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 55–60, ice 17, bolted 0, chocks used 12.
7. Total climbing hours: 22.
8. Number of bivouacs on the wall: one (sitting).
9. Climbers: Makauskas Dainius Yuozat, Antanas – Master of Sports Baibara Viktor Savelyevich – Candidate for Master of Sports
10. Observers: Emelyanenkovo Yury Sergeyevich – Master of Sports, Makhinov Anatoly Pavlovich – Candidate for Master of Sports.
11. Ascent period: July 21, 1977 – departure from base to the plateau, July 23, 1977 – start of the route from the plateau (observation camp), July 24, 1977 – descent from the summit to the observers' bivouac.

Brief Explanation of the Table

From the bivouac in the upper cirque of the Kashka-Tash glacier, we approached the slopes of the East Face of Volnaya Ispaniya peak via the glacier. The bergschrund is passable to the right of a small rocky outcrop, about 70 meters away – this path is less hazardous (the usual path through the bergschrund is somewhat like taking the Avangard route).

We climbed straight up (R1–R2) and moved left along the edge of ice and rocks. From here, the Avangard bivouacs remain slightly to the right (~10 m). Then, we went left and up towards a detached rock and reached it (R2–R5).

A difficult wall (R5–R6), then we exited via less complicated maneuvering to the Myshlyaev bivouac site under the wet wall (R5–R7). There is ice for water below the bivouac. Falling icicles and occasional rocks pass by or fly over the bivouac. By making half-hammocks from ropes, we could sleep in a semi-reclined position.

The section R7–R9 – left, bypassing the wet wall. Maneuvering is very difficult (we pulled up our backpacks!), but safe.

After passing the chimney (R9–R10), we could:

• exit to the "roof" to the right with a slight ascent and descent (there are driven pitons, loops);
• we went left and up, then to the right.

A difficult section (R10–R11) with loose rock blocks. The pre-summit ridge is not complicated, but when it started snowing, it was difficult to climb in crampons.

The exit to the summit is along the snowy ridge.

Protocol

Debriefing of the ascent of Volnaya Ispaniya peak via the East Face (M.L. Mishilyaev's route) 5B category (verified), completed on July 24, 1977, by D. Makauskas and V. Baibara, participants of the USSR Sports Committee gathering.

Attendees: gathering coach and releasing Master of Sports USSR, senior instructor Emelyanenko Yu.S., head of the Elbrus region KSP Makhinov A.P., Ladygin V.A., V.S. Baibara, D.A. Makauskas.

Makauskas: "Due to certain circumstances, we had the opportunity to thoroughly familiarize ourselves with the route, the breakdown of the passage by time for different sections, and receive 'fresh' consultations. We saw how the teams Silin–Razumov, Chumakov–Myshakov, and a trio of French climbers passed the route. The main conclusion – rocks themselves do not generally fall on this route this year; occasionally (from 11:00 to 17:00) ice falls."

"We approached the route around 17:00 on July 21, 1977. Contrary to our expectations, the team Chumakov–Myshakov was low, and we decided to wait one day to avoid being hit by rocks that might 'fall from under them'."

"The next day at 17:00, we approached the bergschrund and fixed a rope: although there was a 5th category, almost sheer wall, it was also a more direct and safer exit to the rock route."

"We also tested new ice pitons, in whose reliability we had doubts. These doubts were confirmed, and that's why we took old-style screw pitons on the route."

"I want to note:

• I led the entire ice and snow part of the route;
• on rocks, on the first day, I led only 3 ropes, on the second day – two;
• Viktor led the key sections;
• we only pulled up our backpacks on the second day, when we deviated left from under the wet wall after the bivouac."

"According to the description, the route goes along the wet wall, where bolts are driven, but ice and rocks fall on it. We deviated 5 meters to the left and then arced upwards. Climbing was very difficult. We exited to the same place as those who go via the wet wall. I think our path is more complicated but safer."

"We bivouacked at Myshlyaev's cairn, making half-hammocks from a rope. We stopped for the night at 18:00, and on the next day (July 24), we started moving at 9:00. The radio, as you know, broke. We were at the summit at 17:00. From 15:00, it started snowing, which greatly hindered our progress. At the top, there was very slushy, deep snow; steps couldn't be made; old steps we were counting on turned out to be not steps but 'markers'."

"We descended to the tents in the dark; the descent was hindered by fog."

"I want to note:

• Viktor's excellent – clean and reliable – climbing;
• good and correct choice of route."

"The entire wall was climbed (except for the bergschrund) using free climbing."

"Among the shortcomings, it should be noted that Viktor wants to climb all difficult sections by himself, and perhaps in one place (exit from the bivouac), he should have climbed without a backpack – we would have gained time; Viktor lacked a Schтихт plate, and I insured with a plate only three times."

"It should be noted that we used chocks very little; on this route, it's better to use pitons, and take only large chocks."

Baibara: "Dainius forgot to say that the constant observer was V. Ladygin, and A. Makhinov, then Yu. Emelyanenko joined him."

"On the route, we started on July 23 at 5:00. During the passage of the route, there was complete mutual understanding between us on all issues. Dainius went first on ice very clearly and reliably and oriented himself perfectly in the fog during the descent. There's a lot to learn from him."

Makhinov: "The team passed the route at a good pace. Usually, groups, if they stop where Vitya and Dainius did, fix a rope in the evening and then climb up on jumar on the frozen rope in the morning. Here, they used daylight to set up a bivouac; it was clear they had a good margin. The deviation left from under the wet wall is a more complicated option; usually, it's taken in bad weather when the wet wall is covered with ice."

Emelyanenko: "The ascent was made with strict adherence to the planned tactical plan, competently, and at a good pace. The quality of the ascent confirms that the technical, tactical, and psychological preparation of Makauskas and Baibara allows them to undertake ascents on routes of the highest difficulty category. The ascent of Volnaya Ispaniya peak via the East Face (5B category) is verified."

Protocol led (V.S. Baibara) July 25, 1977