Ascent Log
- Region of ascent: Central Caucasus.
- Object of ascent: peak Volnaya Ispaniya.
- Route: via the north face (Vladimir Kizel, 1952).
- Difficulty category: 5B.
- Climbing hours — 22 days — 3
- Overnights – 2, the first before the rock chimney, the second on the "крыша" (roof).
- Departure for the route January 4th at 7:00 AM. Reached the summit January 6th at 11:00 AM. Returned to base camp January 6th at 5:00 PM.
- Equipment used:
- main rope — two 50 m ropes,
- ice axes – 2,
- ice screws – 12,
- cams – 5,
- nuts – 10,
- quickdraws – 12,
- crampons – 2,
- tent – 1,
- gas burner – 1,
- sleeping bag «нога» (leg-type) – 1,
- down jackets – 2,
- sleeping mats – 2.
- Participants: Vlaznev Dmitry Alexandrovich, Candidate Master of Sports, Troitsk, Moscow region, tel. (495) 518-86-67. Bagov Valery Alexeevich, Candidate Master of Sports, Korolyov, Moscow region, tel. 8-916-845-54-80.
Tactical Actions of the Team
On January 3rd, 2006, our pair (Vlaznev D., Bagov V.) and four other Moscow region climbers (Goltsblat L., Vlazneva Yu., Buzulukov M., Grishkova E.) approached the north-eastern slopes of peak Volnaya Ispaniya from the Dzhan-Tugan alpine camp and set up a base camp in a safe location.
On January 4th, both groups started their ascent to peak Volnaya Ispaniya:
- the pair ascended via the north face using V. Kizel's route, 5B category,
- the foursome (led by Goltsblat L.) ascended via the western ridge from the col between Volnaya Ispaniya and Bzhedug peaks using a 3A category route.
Communication between the groups was maintained using two Motorola radios, which were kept on receive mode within line of sight.
R0–R1 After ascending a snowy slope to the right of the bergschrund, the pair turned left, crossed the bergschrund, and reached a firn slope. They ascended the firn slope (150 m, 45°) to a broad, steep, ice-covered chimney.
R1–R2 They ascended the steep, hard ice of the chimney (40 m, 80°) to a rock chimney. As night was approaching, they were unable to pass the rock chimney and, securing their backpacks and covering themselves with a tent, they had a sitting overnight bivouac on the ice. The night was windless and warm, and the bivouac was successful.
R2–R3 On January 5th, at dawn, they continued their ascent and overcame the rock chimney (25 m, 90°). The weather was good.
R3–R4 After the rock chimney, a 150 m long ice couloir led upwards, initially steep (70°) and then becoming less steep (50–60°).
R4–R5 The path continued first over a snowy slope (50 m, 40°), then over snow-covered rocks (50 m, 40°). At the top of the rocks, beneath the snow-covered north-eastern ridge, they set up a tent on a platform and spent their second night.
R5–R6 On the morning of January 6th, it was windy, snowing, and visibility was 200 m. After traversing 30 m of snowy slope, they reached the snow-covered north-eastern ridge and followed it to the summit of Volnaya Ispaniya at 11:00 AM.
They traversed 30 m along the ridge to the west and began their descent via rappel down the north-western snow-covered rocky slope of Volnaya Ispaniya towards the "trough" between Bzhedug and Volnaya Ispaniya. After setting up three rappels, they reached the snowy slopes. Here, they met the foursome that had ascended Volnaya Ispaniya via the 3A category route. They continued their descent down the "trough" together with their friends.
They returned to base camp at 5:00 PM. On the morning of January 7th, they continued their descent and by 3:00 PM were back at the Dzhan-Tugan alpine camp.
Peak Volnaya Ispaniya. North face.
Peak Volnaya Ispaniya. View from the base camp.