Passport

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range.
3. Peak Volnaya Spain, via North face, 4200 m.
4. Category 5B difficulty.
5. Elevation gain: 400 m, length 600 m. Length of sections: 5th category – 140 m. 6th category – 20 m. Average steepness of the route – 54°, average steepness of the key section – 80°.
6. Hooks left on the route – 2 pcs. Previously driven hooks used – 8 pcs.
7. Team's climbing hours: 8 hours and days – 1.
8. Overnight stays: without overnight stay.
9. Leader: Abramov Alexander Viktorovich – Master of Sports Participants:
   • Shcherbakov A.K. – Master of Sports
   • Romanov A.A. – Candidate for Master of Sports
   • Shaginyan N.A. – Candidate for Master of Sports
   • Tyurikov O.N. – Candidate for Master of Sports
   • Averkiev O.V. – Candidate for Master of Sports
10. Coach: Volodin V.G. – Master of Sports.
11. Approach to the route: February 14, 1992. Summit: February 14, 1992. Return: February 14, 1992.
12. Organization: SKA – 13 MVO.www.alpfederation.ru↗

Photo of the wall profile from the left

Profile of the route. View from the left

M 1:2000 p. V. Spain, 4200 m February 14, 1992

Preparation for the ascent

The North and North-East walls of Peak Volnaya Spain are interesting for complex technical routes. The route via the North wall (Kizel) is known as a classic winter route. Not the least role in this is played by the relatively short approach to the route.

The team SKA-13 MVO constantly conducts joint training, which makes it possible to successfully participate in both summer and winter Championships of the CIS. The team constantly participates in competitions on rock climbing and ice climbing.

In the 1992 season, a training ascent was made to v. Kurmichi, category 1B.

Knowing that there are no good sites for an overnight stay on the route and taking into account the instability of the weather in March, the team set a goal to complete the route in one day. To achieve this, the team started early to approach the route in order to process the beginning of the route, but due to deep snow and the absence of a trail, they only managed to make a trail to the route and leave all the equipment there. To be on the safe side, they took:

• a tent,
• a primus stove,
• spare fuel.

For the passage of the key part of the route, the first climber used hook-nogi, steep sections were passed using two ice axes on stirrups, everyone had two jumar clamps, the first worked with a UIAA rope, and the rope was secured with top rope.

The rescue team was formed from the gathering: 2 – Master of Sports, 6 – Candidate for Master of Sports, and the team of KSP.

Communication with the rescue team was carried out via the "Kaktus" radio station.

Tactical actions of the team

The team worked in rope teams: Abramov – Romanov, Shcherbakov – Shaginyan, Tyurikov – Averkiev.

The section R0–R1 was first worked by the rope team Abramov – Romanov, then it was replaced by the rope team Shcherbakov – Shaginyan and worked on sections R1–R0. The first participant worked on the UIAA rope, the rest on sections R0–R1 moved along the handrails with top rope.

Use of jumars:

• R1–R0 and R0–R1: one jumar
• R0–R1: two jumars

On ice, intermediate insurance was organized on ice screws, on the rock section – on regular and bolted hooks, previously driven.

The route was completed without injuries, with a good physical and time reserve. The rescue team was located at the "Shkhelda" alpine camp, and communication with it was carried out via the "Kaktus" radio station every 2 hours. To ensure safety, the team had:

• a first-aid kit,
• a tent,
• a primus stove,
• spare fuel,
• dry sublimated products. Total weight of equipment – 11.7 kg.

See appendices:

• photo 1: approach to the key section, R2–R3
• photo 2: passage of the key section, R4–R5

Description of the route by sections

Section R3–R4 – passage of the bergschrund and ice wall with a steepness of 80°. Section R4–R3 – ice slope with a steepness of 45°. Section R4–R4 – rocky chimney, 80°, 0.5–1 m wide, filled with ice. Section R4–R4 – rocky internal angle with a plug, 75°–80°. Climbing is difficult, with the use of ITC. Section R4–R16 – rocky-ice slope, steepness 45°–50°. Section R16–R16 – snow ridge, insurance through ice screws. Exit to the summit. On all sections, handrails and top rope were used.