Russian Championship in Alpinism 2020. Class of Altitudinal-Technical Ascents.

Report on the Traverse of Krumkol (4688 m) – Dykhtau Gl. (5205 m), via Route 6B cat. dif. by the Combined Team of Voronezh Region and Moscow Region for the Period from July 15 to July 22, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Dmitrienko E. V., MS
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Susloparov P. A., CMS, Maximov D. S., CMS, Vasiliev I. V., CMS
1.3	Full Name of Coach	Bolkovoy E. V.
1.4	Organization	Alpinism Federation of Moscow Region

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Ural (V) (4273 m), via the Southwest wall, first ascent, approximately 5A category of difficulty, by the team Сборная ФАСПб from July 9 to July 9, 2022. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Team members:

• Bolyachkin D.L. — 1st sports category
• Matinyan A.A. — Master of Sports
• Trikozov V.M. — Master of Sports

1. Ascent Passport

Report on the first ascent of Ural Vostochny Peak (4273 m) via the left part of the SE wall, approximately 5B category of difficulty, by the combined team of CSKA named after Demchenko and KAiS MPEI, from August 19 to August 20, 2020. Senior coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Team leader: Nilov S.A.

Ural Vostochny (4273 m) via the left part of the SE wall

Climbing details

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Nilov Sergey Alekseyevich, Master of Sports
1.2	Full names, sports ranks of the team members	Golovchenko Dmitry Nikolayevich, Candidate for Master of Sports; Yablokov Evgeny Alexandrovich, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Kuznetsova Elena Valentinovna

Climbing Passport

1. Caucasus, Bezengi region, Ukyu gorge. Section 2.5 according to the 2013 classification table.
2. To the peak named after Yu.S. Saratov, 3711 m high, via the N ridge 43.05.337 N 43.10.797 E.
3. Proposed category 1B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is rock.
5. Height difference is 500 m.
6. There is 1 rappel anchor on the route.
7. Climbing time — 5 hours.
8. Leader — S.A. Slotyuk, Candidate Master of Sports, in a team of two with S.V. Kotachkov, Candidate Master of Sports.
9. Coach — S.A. Slotyuk.

4310 — Gestola, NE ridge, traverse, 4A cat. Route of ascent to the top. Gestola through Mt. Lyalver.

• Red dashed line — ascent route
• 4A route is indicated by a blue dashed line
• A possible emergency descent route, unclassified route, is indicated by a black dashed line
• Green labels — overnight stays 4 — Chyornye Osypi (Black Talus) stop.

1. Ascent to Gestola peak via Lyalver.

Gestola peak (4850 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge, in the Bezengi Wall. The ascent to Gestola via Lyalver is classified as 3B cat. difficulty.

www.alp-federation.ru

2. Group Composition and Support

The mountaineering group that completed the traverse consisted of athletes with the 1st sports category from the MGS DSO "Trud" gathering, held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp:

1. Saratov Yu.S. — group leader,
2. Beda A.G.,
3. Golubkov B.S.,
4. Daruga V.K. Three of the group members had experience climbing in the Bezengi region in previous seasons. All participants underwent joint training during the pre-camp period and completed training ascents:

• 3B — Ullu-Auz-Bashi
• 4B — Main Jangitaus via the northern edge, category of complexity in the 1964 season.

Moscow City Council

VSS "TRUD" TRAVERSING THE BEZENGI WALL WITH ASCENT TO SHKHAra VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE 1960 Leader: Gavrilov B. A. Participants:

• Moiseev Yu. A.
• Mosunov A. A.
• Chereshkin D. S. In July-August 1960, a gathering of qualified climbers from the Moscow City Council of VSS "Trud" was held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp. The plan included participating in the Moscow championship in the traverse class. The Bezengi Wall was chosen as the object, whose traverse with ascent to Shkhara via the northern ridge had only been done once before in 1948 by a group from VSS "Spartak" led by Honored Master of Sports Abalakov V. M.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Central Caucasus, Bezengi region 2.5
3. Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the north face of the eastern ridge spur, second ascent of the route
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
5. Height difference — 1157 m (3900–5057), wall length — 1730 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 660 m (3975–4570, 4780–4890), average steepness of main sections — 64–67°, of which 6th category — 320 m (4280–4570, 4780–4890), 77–79°

Ascent Log

Region: Central Caucasus, Bezingi region, No. in table 2.5 Peak name: West Shkhara Route name: via N wall of E ridge (Razumov's route) with traverse to East Janggi Difficulty category: 6B Route characteristics: combined Route elevation gain: 1457 m Wall section length: 1730 m Total route length: 4800 m Length of sections with 5th cat. diff.: 285 m, 6th cat. diff.: 480 m

All-Union Council

Alplager "Bezengi"

The ascent is dedicated to the bright memory of Igor Alexandrovich DUDCHENKO

Caucasus

Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the center of the North face

1. BLANKOVSKY A.K., Master of Sports — "Zenit" — team leader
2. LEVIN A.S., Master of Sports — "Trud" — participant
3. KRAINOV I.P., CMS — "Spartak"
4. MELENTYEV V.I., CMS — "Zenit" 1980