Bezengi

Report on traversing the Krumkol — Dykhtau Main Ridge via a Category 6B route, accomplished by a team of climbers in July 2020.

Russian Championship in Alpinism 2020. Class of Altitudinal-Technical Ascents. Report on the Traverse of Krumkol (4688 m) – Dykhtau Gl. (5205 m), via Route 6B cat. dif. by the Combined Team of Voronezh Region and Moscow Region for the Period from July 15 to July 22, 2020 I. Ascent Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Dmitrienko E. V., MS | | 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Susloparov P. A., CMS, Maximov D. S., CMS, Vasiliev I. V., CMS | | 1.3 | Full Name of Coach | Bolkovoy E. V. | | 1.4 | Organization | Alpinism Federation of Moscow Region |

Report on the ascent to the summit of Ural (V) (4273 m) via the southwest wall, first ascent category 5A by the FASPb team on July 9, 2022

Report on the ascent to the summit of Ural (V) (4273 m), via the Southwest wall, first ascent, approximately 5A category of difficulty, by the team Сборная ФАСПб from July 9 to July 9, 2022. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Team members: Bolyachkin D.L. — 1st sports category Matinyan A.A. — Master of Sports Trikozov V.M. — Master of Sports Ascent Passport

Report on the first ascent of Pik Ural Vostochny via the left part of the southeast wall, cat. 5B, in August 2020 by a team of climbers from the Demchenko named ЦСКА and KAiS MPEI.

Report on the first ascent of Ural Vostochny Peak (4273 m) via the left part of the SE wall, approximately 5B category of difficulty, by the combined team of CSKA named after Demchenko and KAiS MPEI, from August 19 to August 20, 2020. Senior coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Team leader: Nilov S.A. Ural Vostochny (4273 m) via the left part of the SE wall Climbing details | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :--------------------------------------------------------------- | :---------------------------------------------------------------------- | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Nilov Sergey Alekseyevich, Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full names, sports ranks of the team members | Golovchenko Dmitry Nikolayevich, Candidate for Master of Sports; Yablokov Evgeny Alexandrovich, 1st sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Kuznetsova Elena Valentinovna |

Ascent to Saratov Peak (3711 m) via the North Ridge, Category 1B difficulty, Bezengi region, Caucasus.

Climbing Passport Caucasus, Bezengi region, Ukyu gorge. Section 2.5 according to the 2013 classification table. To the peak named after Yu.S. Saratov, 3711 m high, via the N ridge 43.05.337 N 43.10.797 E. Proposed category 1B difficulty, first ascent. The route is rock. Height difference is 500 m. There is 1 rappel anchor on the route. Climbing time — 5 hours. Leader — S.A. Slotyuk, Candidate Master of Sports, in a team of two with S.V. Kotachkov, Candidate Master of Sports. Coach — S.A. Slotyuk.

Ascent to the Gestola peak (4850 m) via Lyalver, 3B category of difficulty route, description of the path, itinerary and features of overcoming obstacles.

4310 — Gestola, NE ridge, traverse, 4A cat. Route of ascent to the top. Gestola through Mt. Lyalver. Red dashed line — ascent route 4A route is indicated by a blue dashed line A possible emergency descent route, unclassified route, is indicated by a black dashed line Green labels — overnight stays 4 — Chyornye Osypi (Black Talus) stop. Ascent to Gestola peak via Lyalver. Gestola peak (4850 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge, in the Bezengi Wall. The ascent to Gestola via Lyalver is classified as 3B cat. difficulty.

### Description of the Traverse of Bezengi Wall Peaks from Shkhara to Jangitau Account of the traverse of the Bezengi Wall peaks from Shkhara to Jangitau, accomplished by a group of climbers in 1964.

www.alp-federation.ru Group Composition and Support The mountaineering group that completed the traverse consisted of athletes with the 1st sports category from the MGS DSO "Trud" gathering, held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp: Saratov Yu.S. — group leader, Beda A.G., Golubkov B.S., Daruga V.K. Three of the group members had experience climbing in the Bezengi region in previous seasons. All participants underwent joint training during the pre-camp period and completed training ascents: 3B — Ullu-Auz-Bashi 4B — Main Jangitaus via the northern edge, category of complexity in the 1964 season.

Traversing Bezengi Wall with an ascent to Shkhara via the northern edge, accomplished by a group of climbers in 1960 in 8 travel days under challenging weather conditions.

Moscow City Council VSS "TRUD" TRAVERSING THE BEZENGI WALL WITH ASCENT TO SHKHAra VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE 1960 Leader: Gavrilov B. A. Participants: Moiseev Yu. A. Mosunov A. A. Chereshkin D. S. In July-August 1960, a gathering of qualified climbers from the Moscow City Council of VSS "Trud" was held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp. The plan included participating in the Moscow championship in the traverse class. The Bezengi Wall was chosen as the object, whose traverse with ascent to Shkhara via the northern ridge had only been done once before in 1948 by a group from VSS "Spartak" led by Honored Master of Sports Abalakov V. M.

Account of the ascent made by the Elbrus airline crew to the Western Pharaoh (5057 m) via the northern wall of the eastern ridge buttress in 1982, rated as category 6B difficulty.

Ascent Passport Class — technical Central Caucasus, Bezengi region 2.5 Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the north face of the eastern ridge spur, second ascent of the route Proposed difficulty category — 6 Height difference — 1157 m (3900–5057), wall length — 1730 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 660 m (3975–4570, 4780–4890), average steepness of main sections — 64–67°, of which 6th category — 320 m (4280–4570, 4780–4890), 77–79°

Description of a challenging combined route (category 6B difficulty) ascent to the Western Shkhara summit with a traverse to Eastern Djanga on Central Caucasus by a group of mountaineers.

Ascent Log Region: Central Caucasus, Bezingi region, No. in table 2.5 Peak name: West Shkhara Route name: via N wall of E ridge (Razumov's route) with traverse to East Janggi Difficulty category: 6B Route characteristics: combined Route elevation gain: 1457 m Wall section length: 1730 m Total route length: 4800 m Length of sections with 5th cat. diff.: 285 m, 6th cat. diff.: 480 m

Ascent to Shkhara West via the center of the northern wall, route rated 6 (Russian grading scale), climbed by a team consisting of Blankovsky, Levin, Krainov and Melentyev.

All-Union Council Alplager "Bezengi" The ascent is dedicated to the bright memory of Igor Alexandrovich DUDCHENKO Caucasus Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the center of the North face BLANKOVSKY A.K., Master of Sports — "Zenit" — team leader LEVIN A.S., Master of Sports — "Trud" — participant KRAINOV I.P., CMS — "Spartak" MELENTYEV V.I., CMS — "Zenit" 1980