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Route Description: С стене В гребня
SSummitMateDescription of a challenging combined route (category 6B difficulty) ascent to the Western Shkhara summit with a traverse to Eastern Djanga on Central Caucasus by a group of mountaineers.
Ascent Log
Region: Central Caucasus, Bezingi region, No. in table 2.5 Peak name: West Shkhara Route name: via N wall of E ridge (Razumov's route) with traverse to East Janggi Difficulty category: 6B Route characteristics: combined Route elevation gain: 1457 m Wall section length: 1730 m Total route length: 4800 m Length of sections with 5th cat. diff.: 285 m, 6th cat. diff.: 480 m
Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Krestovaya via the South-West Buttress: route description, key features, and technical difficulty.
Route Description: центру левой части 3 стены
SSummitMateThe second ascent of the Nekrasov route on the West face of Erydag in winter conditions, tactics and technique of the ascent, description of the route and recommendations for future groups.
- Class - winter
- Caucasus Eastern, Dagestan, Chekhychay river gorge
- Erydag via the center of the West wall
- Nekrasov's Route (86, Leningrad) - second ascent
- Height difference 480 m, length 530 m, sections of 5th cat. diff. 300 m, 6th cat. diff. 30 m, avg. slope 65°
- Pitons driven: | rock | nut | ice | bolt | | :--: | :--: | :-: | :--: | | 4/2 | 68/1 | 0/0 | 4/2+1 |
- Team's travel hours - 22, days - 4
Route Description: СЗ кф. 3 гребня
SSummitMateTraverse Peak XIX Partsezd - Spartak - Lenin via the western ridge of the South summit of Peak XIX Partsezd, grade 5B.
ASCENSION PASSPORT
- Type of ascension — High-altitude and technical.
- Area of ascension — Zaalayskiy Ridge, Pamir.
- Peaks, their height, ascension route — Traverse of p. XIX Partsezd (5920 m) – p. Spartak (6183 m) – p. Razdelnaya (6148 m) – p. Lenin (7134 m), with ascent to the Southern peak of p. XIX Partsezd via the western ridge.
- Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 3000 m, length of sections: 1st category of difficulty — none, 2nd category of difficulty — 325 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 4230 m, 4th category of difficulty — 5930 m, 5th category of difficulty — 450 m. Average steepness — 30°.
- Number of pitons used: for creating artificial support points — none, for belaying — 18. Among them, rock pitons — 8, ice pitons — 10, screw pitons — none.
- Number of walking hours — 54 hours, 6 days.
- Number of nights and their characteristics — 5 nights, lying down.
Description of the ascent route to the summit with a detailed analysis of technical difficulties and tactical features.
Fig. 6