Ascent of Koshtan-Tau via the Southeast Ridge with descent along the North Ridge

Accomplished by the MGS DSO "Trud" team under the leadership of MS USSR A. Naumov. Tikhonov Peak Koshtan-Tau from the south (from the Spartak Pass)

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

The Koshtan-Tau massif, with a height of 5151 m, is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Main Caucasian Range, and together with the peaks:

• Dykh-Tau,
• Mizhirgi,
• Krumkol,

36. Koshtantau via the North Counterforce — Cat. 4B (E. Mikhalskiy, E. Varteresevich, T. Lukaitis and E. Khrobak — August 20, 1964, V. Klimashin, Yu. Zhemchuzhnikov, E. Karchevskiy, A. Klopova, E. Nikonov and V. Shataev — June 29, 1965, Fig. II). The route from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the Southern ridge of the Utug crag is described in route 18. From the bivouac:

• Descend to the glacier above the third step of the icefall
• Move up and to the right along the glacier towards the base of the Western ridge of the Kunduum-Mizhyrgi peak
• Pass the fourth step of the icefall 10–50 m to the right of the ridge
• Bypass individual crevasses in the upper part of the icefall to the right
• Exit left onto the upper plateau of the glacier
• Move up the plateau towards the left side of the North counterforce of Koshtantau
• Ascend 120 m up the snowy slope

Koshtan-Tau (5145 m), North Ridge, Cat. 4B

From the "3900" campsite, move in the direction of the upper plateau of the Kundryum-Mijirgi Glacier. The fourth stage of the icefall is climbed:

• near the rocks of the West Ridge of Kundryum-Mijirgi Peak (piton use required!)
• or through the center (crevasses!) of the icefall. Then, move left along the route with a slight ascent to reach the slopes of Ptitsa Peak. It is convenient to camp here (1.5–2 hours from the "3900" campsite). From the plateau, through a small bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the rocks at the lower part of Yuzhnaya Ptitsa Peak, left of a vaguely defined couloir. From here:
• ascend slabs (60 m)
• ascend an inclined ledge up to the right (80 m) to reach a rocky terrace. Then, make a short traverse left to the base of the couloir, which after 40 m will lead to a rocky platform on the left part of the snowy-icy slope. Along the wall rocks, on rocks and icy-snowy sections (piton use required!), ascend (120–140 m) to a rocky niche.

5. Height difference — 1800 m, average steepness — 42°, length of sections 6 — 40 m, steepness 80°. 5 — 570 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Ice screws | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | | :-----: | :------: | :-------: | :---------: | | 187 | 25 | 51 | 0 | | 0 | 0 | 2 | 0 |
7. Total travel time — 23 hours.
8. One bivouac on Katyn Plateau — on ice.
9. Leader: Sergey G. Bayanin Master of Sports of the USSR Team members:

Russian Alpine Championship

in the high-altitude technical class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Koshtantau via the left part of the Central Counterfort of the North wall (Simonik route) 6A category of complexity by the team from Rostov region from October 8 to 10, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

43. Koshtantau via the Southwest Ridge — Cat. 5B (I. Galustov, A. Korchagin; K. Sizov, I. Smirnov, N. Shalaev, and V. Yakushkin — July 27, 1955; Fig. 13). From the fork of the Dykhsu and Karasu gorges, ascend via a poorly-defined trail on the left bank of the Dykhsu River to the Green Glade below the Dykhsu Glacier. From the fork — 3.5–4 hr. Further:

• From the glade, ascend via the left-bank moraine of the Dykhsu Glacier.
• After 500–600 m, cross onto the glacier.
• Via the central moraine of the Dykhsu Glacier, reach the confluence with the

To the Classification Commission of the USSR Alpinism Federation

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit of Koshtan-tau via the right part of the north wall. Central Caucasus. Bezengi region. 1989.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing class — technical.
2. Region — Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Summit — Koshtan-tau, route — via the right part of the N wall. First ascent. Route is combined.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B.

TO THE QUALIFICATION COMMISSION OF FASIL ST. PETERSBURG CHAMPIONSHIP OF ST. PETERSBURG ON ALPINISM 2011 DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO Mt. KOSHTAN-TAU (5151 m) VIA THE LEFT PART OF THE CENTRAL COULISSE OF THE NORTH FACE (A. SIMONIK) 6A cat. diff. THE ROUTE WAS CLIMBED BY THE COMBINED TEAM OF ST. PETERSBURG Team captain — Alexander Gukov, team head coach — Yuri Saratov Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi region, Main Caucasian Range, route classification section № 2.5
2. Name of the peak: Koshtan-Tau, 5151 m, route name: via the North Face
3. Cat. diff.: 6A
4. Route type: combined

99. The North summit of Kayashkishubashi via the North-Eastern buttress - Cat. 1B (G. Stepanov, Yu. Vuslik, O. Degtyarev, V. Eremeev, V. Ershov, V. Kompanovsky, V. Kos, O. Lomakin, D. Muzhev, V. Nagolny, A. Snesarev and R. Khabatov - December 7, 1955, Fig. 33). From Mukhol village, follow the pack trail up, then along the slope of the right bank of the Chainashki river. At the foot of Chuprobashi peak - bivouac. From Mukhol village - 6-7 hours. From the bivouac, ascend the scree, then the snowy slopes to a wide couloir. Ascend the right side of the couloir; 60-70-meter "sheep's foreheads" in the middle part of the couloir are traversed via the central gully; further ascent on scree leads to the Eastern snow cirque formed by Kayashkishubashi and Chuprobashi peaks. Traverse the scree, then the snow-ice fields and slopes of the Unnamed glacier left-upwards, below the left slopes of the North-Eastern buttress of Kayashkishubashi peak. Below the buttress - bivouac. From the first bivouac - 7-8 hours. From the plateau, ascend simple and moderately difficult rock terrain ("live" rocks!) to the North-Eastern buttress of the peak. Along the edge of rocks and snow, in places via broken simple rocks, ascend to the summit rock pitch, 30-40 meters, and via it (belay!) reach the North summit of Kayashkishubashi. From the bivouac below the buttress - 3-4 hours. Descent via the ascent route to the bivouac below the buttress - 1.5-2 hours. Recommendations for climbers:
100. Number of participants - 4-20 people.
101. Initial bivouac - grassy slopes, Chuprobashi peak.
102. Departure time - 4-5 am.
103. Equipment: main rope - 2×30 m; auxiliary cord - 1.5 m; rock pitons - 2-3; rock hammer - 1; carabiners - 7-8; tent - 1.
104. Bivouac locations - on the Unnamed glacier and on simple rocks of the North-Eastern buttress.