All-Union Council

Alplager "Bezengi"

The ascent is dedicated to the bright memory of Igor Alexandrovich DUDCHENKO

Caucasus

Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the center of the North face

1. BLANKOVSKY A.K., Master of Sports — "Zenit" — team leader
2. LEVIN A.S., Master of Sports — "Trud" — participant
3. KRAINOV I.P., CMS — "Spartak"
4. MELENTYEV V.I., CMS — "Zenit"

1980

Introduction

Western Shkhara (5057 m) is located in the Bezengi Wall. The northern slopes of the Bezengi Wall have a significant glaciation with many hanging glaciers and ice falls (photo). The ridge of the Bezengi Wall is decorated with huge cornices formed due to the constantly blowing winds from the south. The weather in the Bezengi area is unstable, with frequent thunderstorms and heavy precipitation, which greatly complicates ascents on the northern slopes and requires climbers not only to have excellent physical and technical (especially ice) preparation but also tactical maturity. The object of our ascent is located between Shkhara Main and V. Jangi-Tau, where there are no classified routes. This is mainly due to the fact that the entire section of the wall is intersected by powerful icefalls and ice drops, creating an objective danger. And only through the center of the North face of Western Shkhara is a path visible that is not overrun by avalanches and icefalls. However, in the lower third, this path is blocked by a powerful ice drop, but a fairly safe rock counterfort leads directly to its base.

This route has long attracted the attention of climbers. The first attempt to ascend Western Shkhara from the north was made in the early 1960s. By 1980, the route had been repeatedly entered in the USSR climbing championships. However, due to the insurmountable difficulties faced by climbers when attempting to pass the ice drop (barrier), all attempts ended in failure, as successful passage of such routes requires not only completely new technical means but also a change in the psychology of climbers, a change in attitude towards ice routes.

The necessary change began to occur in recent years. It is driven, on the one hand, by the emergence of new ways to overcome ice walls (ice screws, twelve-tooth rigid crampons, ice axes, etc.). On the other hand, it is a consequence of the natural development of mountaineering, a significant increase in its level, i.e., the very trend of mountaineering development forces us to seek combined routes that have not only complex rock sections but also a large number of extremely complex and steep ice sections.

Sports Characteristics of the Route

Recently, Caucasian routes have not been highly regarded in the USSR championships, with the center of gravity shifting to Central Asia. Combined routes in Bezengi can fill this gap, not inferior to, and in many cases surpassing, Central Asian routes.

One of the most problematic and complex routes in the Bezengi region has long been the route to Western Shkhara via the center of the North face ("direttissima").

Three key sections can be identified on the route.

• The first section is a powerful overhanging ice barrier about 200 m long (sections R6–R9, photo). It requires not only high ice climbing technique and equipment with high-quality ice gear but also a completely new approach to "ice work," due to the need to overcome not only ice overhangs but also negative ice sections.
• The second section is a bergschrund (section R10–R11, photo) cutting through a snow-ice slope leading to a triangular wall. Even a preliminary assessment indicated that the upper wall of this bergschrund is strongly overhanging, and it is very heavily broken. Further observations from the SE ridge of V. Jangi-Tau confirmed this conclusion. The third key section is a half-kilometer triangular wall (sections R13–R17, photo). Observations of it and experience from Bezengi ascents on northern walls via routes of the highest difficulty suggested that this wall has a very high steepness and is most likely covered in ice. However, reality exceeded our expectations.

It turned out that the wall:

• although dissected in the lower part, is so heavily covered in ice that it is hardly possible to speak of purely rock sections here;
• the upper part, about 200 m monolithic, has many overhanging sections and is also covered with ice accretion.

The route has practically no convenient and safe bivouacs along its entire length, except for sections R3–R4, R8–R9, R10–R11, and from section R11 to the ridge of the Bezengi Wall — only semi-hanging bivouacs are possible. Additionally, it should be remembered that after passing the ice barrier, only an ascent is possible; descent in bad weather becomes very dangerous.

Thus, the chosen route required all team members to:

• be able to work on the most complex sections of any mountain relief, including negative ice;
• have high psychological preparation;
• be interchangeable;
• have very high physical fitness, as climbing such a route in the Bezengi climate must be planned for the minimum time.

All these circumstances dictated the plan for preparing candidates for the team and then the final selection of the assault group.

Team Preparation before Departing to the Mountains

The specifics of the camp team imply the participation of climbers representing different cities. Preparations for its formation began as early as the 1979 season. Then, throughout the autumn, a list of candidates was refined, including the following instructors from a/l "Bezengi":

1. Blankovsky A.K., Master of Sports, Zaporozhye, "Zenit"
2. Levin A.S., Master of Sports, Moscow, "Trud"
3. Maerkovich V.A., Master of Sports, Leningrad, "Spartak"
4. Kalashnikov E.F., Master of Sports, Kharkov, "Avangard"
5. Krainov I.P., CMS, Kharkov, "Spartak"
6. Melentyev V.I., CMS, Moscow, "Zenit"
7. Belousov E.B., CMS, Saratov, "Burevestnik"
8. Shishin V.A., CMS, Leningrad, "Trud"
9. Alimov, CMS, Arkhangelsk, "Trud"
10. Efremov A.A., 1st sports category, Kharkov, "Spartak"

Each candidate trained according to an individual plan drawn up by coach I.B. Kudinov.

It included:

• elements of general physical preparation;
• specialized training.

During pre-camp preparation, candidates traveled to Crimea and the Caucasus, where they climbed routes of 3rd, 4th, and 5th categories of difficulty and participated in the Ukrainian championship in mountaineering in the low mountains of Crimea. Thus, the pre-camp training plan was fully implemented.

Team Training in the Camp

The plan for training team members in the camp was determined by two factors: the team members' workload with instructor work and the weather conditions in Bezengi.

It was planned that team members would participate in a pre-camp instructor gathering, followed by a 15-day gathering directly before heading out on the route, based on which the final team composition would be determined. During this gathering, the main focus was on:

• practicing high-level ice climbing technique,
• testing non-standard equipment,
• climbing peaks located in the immediate vicinity of Western Shkhara to observe the route and take photographs.

The ascent to Western Shkhara was planned for the first days of August. By this time, the training plan had been fully implemented.

Team members climbed routes of 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6B categories of difficulty. In particular, they made first ascents on peak Brno via a route of 4B category of difficulty and on Krumkol via a route of 6B category of difficulty. For four days, ice climbing training was conducted on the drops of the North face of peak Sella for all team members. These drops are approximately at the same height as the ice barrier of the North face of Western Shkhara and have about 40 m of overhang with negative sections. Non-standard ice gear was tested and selected on them.

Then, 7 team members made a joint ascent to V. Jangi-Tau via the NE ridge. Observations and photography of the North face of Western Shkhara were conducted from this route, and fuel and products were cached on the summit of Jangi-Tau.

By August 1, all team members had gathered at the camp. At a meeting of the camp's coaching council with the participation of the team, the final composition was determined: Blankovsky A.K., Levin A.S., Krainov I.P., and Melentyev V.I.

Route Observation. Ensuring Safety

As already mentioned, the first attempts to pass the North face of Western Shkhara date back to the early 1960s. Practically from that time, this wall has been under observation.

In the 1980 season, team members continuously observed the wall starting from June 22. Periodically, they made exits directly under the start of the route and observed its lower part (the start of the route is located just an hour's walk from Janghi-kosh). As already mentioned, observations were also conducted from the SE ridge of V. Jangi-Tau. Such preparation fully justified itself and allowed:

• to choose the most optimal and safe path;
• to draw up a tactical plan for the ascent, which was practically implemented.

Tactical Ascent Plan

The tactical ascent plan was determined by the presence of the three previously mentioned key sections, their length, steepness, and condition at the time of route passage, as well as Bezengi weather conditions.

The plan was to start the route from Janghi-kosh without prior processing. It was planned to process only the second bergschrund and the ice slope under the triangular rock wall during the ascent.

When developing the tactical plan, early starts on the route were envisaged, as the weather in our area usually deteriorates in the second half of the day.

Ascent plan:

• Day 1 — departure under the ice barrier and its processing
• Day 2 — passage of the ice barrier, exit to the 2nd bergschrund. Processing of the 2nd bergschrund and the ice wall under the triangular wall
• Day 3 — passage of the triangular wall
• Day 4 — exit to the summit
• Day 5 — traverse of the section of the Bezengi Wall between Western Shkhara and V. Jangi-Tau. Descent to Janghi-kosh.

The tactical ascent plan included a movement scheme for the group on the route with a daily change of the lead climber.

According to the movement scheme:

• On the most complex sections, the lead climber of the first rope, having passed the next section, would take the first climber of the second rope.
• The second rope would then pull up the free rope and release the next climber.
• Meanwhile, the rest of the participants would move along the installed fixed ropes.

Features of the equipment:

• The first climber went through the entire route either without a backpack or with a lightened backpack.

Communication and Observation

Communication was carried out using "Vitalka" radios (there were two in the group) with Janghi-kosh, where observers with a "Karat" radio station were located. Communication was maintained at least twice a day.

Additionally, except for periods of bad weather and fog, the group's movement was clearly visible from Janghi-kosh using 7x binoculars.

The permanent observer during the ascent was instructor Golub Yu.I. from the KSP of the Bezengi region. Additionally, observation was conducted by the head of the educational department of a/l "Bezengi," Kudinov I.B.

General view of the route. Photographed on July 21, 1980, from the W ridge of Eastern Jangi-Tau.

Profile scheme. Photographed on August 15, 1980, from the saddle between peak Sh. Rustaveli and V. Jangi-Tau.

Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route to Western Shkhara via the Center of the North Face ("Direttissima")

Reached the summit of Western Shkhara at 14:30. 38 rock pitons and 13 ice pitons were driven during the day. Departed on the route at 6:00. Took 8 hours. Began descent from the summit along the West ridge of Western Shkhara towards Eastern Jangi-Tau. Descended from Eastern Jangi-Tau via the route of 4B category of difficulty (SE ridge) and by 21:00 on August 15, 1980, were at the Janghi-kosh hut.

General Notes

1. Due to the fact that all rock sections, regardless of steepness, are covered with ice accretion, almost the entire route was climbed in crampons.
2. Ice sections steeper than 55° were climbed using two ice axes with stirrups, which could be used as artificial footholds.

The length of the sections was measured based on the use of 45-meter ropes, i.e., the working length was about 40 m.

The average steepness of the route was calculated without considering sections R20–R21 (ridge of the Bezengi Wall).

Team Captain BLANKOVSKY A.K. Coach KUDINOV I.B.

Ascent Diary

August 9. Left a/l "Bezengi" at 6:00. Today's approach to the Janghi-kosh hut — our permanent observation point and base camp. After 5 hours, we are at the hut. Throughout the day, we refine and observe the route. The fact is that on August 2, a severe storm broke out, lasting five days. The Bezengi Wall has become significantly whiter, which, on the one hand, greatly complicates our route, and on the other hand, makes it safer by reducing the likelihood of rockfall from the right part of the triangular wall. Of course, we could have waited a couple more days, but Bezengi experience suggests that we should climb now, while the weather is good. We plan to depart at 3:30 AM.

August 10. Departed at 3:30. After 1 hour and 15 minutes, we approach a huge snow-ice outwash under the icefall from peak Shkhara. Our route begins here. We put on crampons.

The first rope, Melentyev-Blankovsky, departs. The second rope observes them and the route: in case of avalanches or ice collapses. Finally, Melentyev reaches above the bergschrund and accepts Blankovsky. They are safe. The second rope begins to move.

After the bergschrund, we pass an ice slope and move towards rock outcrops leading to the lower rock belt, which ominously overhangs us.

At the beginning of the slope, we insure ourselves through snow anchors, which are titanium plates with a cable. They hold very well. After two ropes, the snow turns into pure ice. We move alternately on the front teeth of crampons, insuring ourselves through ice screws. Ice axes come into play in the upper part. We approach the first rock outcrop and find a rappel loop and a feathered titanium piton left by the Saratov group led by Yu.S. Saratov, who suffered a setback here in 1970.

Along the outcrops, adhering to the left side, with piton insurance, we exit through one rope under the lower rock belt. Straight up the rock wall. To the right remains a small couloir, where avalanches periodically occur. The rocks are covered with ice accretion, and ledges are filled with snow. We don't remove our crampons. The first climber constantly works with the beak of an ice axe, chipping away ice and clearing cracks and holds. Climbing is difficult.

The wall turns into a steep, heavily snowed rock counterfort. For a long time, we have to search under the snow and ice for holds and cracks. The counterfort leads to a 10-meter snow ridge, where there is a very convenient place for a bivouac. Here, the lead changes. Blankovsky A.K. takes the lead.

The snow ridge abuts a monolithic 50-meter wall. It is all covered with ice accretion. Again, the ice axe comes into play. Climbing is very complex. The wall goes straight up towards a small yellow ledge. There's a ledge for one person, but if you chip away the ice, two people can somehow stand. Above this place, there's another monolithic wall about 70 m high, shielded on the right and left by completely smooth slabs, between which there's something like a groove with rocks protruding from the ice accretion. Climbing is extremely difficult, but we can still go without ladders. Despite the ice accretion, crampons hold well. The weather starts to deteriorate.

The wall leads to a snow-ice, relatively gentle ridge. The ice barrier blocking the entire North face of Western Shkhara is now visible. An impressive sight of the overhanging ice mass. We move along the relatively easy snow ridge towards the barrier. We discuss passage options. It turns out that the path to the barrier is not that simple. It is blocked by a steep ice wall with rocks like "ram's foreheads." The Blankovsky-Melentyev rope is ready to start processing the barrier, but the weather has finally deteriorated. Strong wind, fog, snow grains. This is Bezengi!

We descend to the beginning of the snow ridge and, removing the snow cover, start digging out a platform for the tent. The location is convenient and safe. Avalanches and ice collapses pass to the right and left of the ridge through deep and steep couloirs. We managed to complete the section planned according to the tactical plan for the day. However, we were unable to fully implement the tactical plan due to bad weather.

We install the tent on ice screws, all on self-arrest, and to the right and left, a rumble starts — avalanches are coming down. Sometimes we're hit by snow dust, and the air wave shakes the tent quite a bit. This is both reassuring and alarming, as such a rapid descent of avalanches means that there are no places for snow accumulation on the wall, and on the other hand, it indicates its very high steepness.

August 11. The night was filled with the rumble of avalanches and ice collapses. We slept poorly. The morning is overcast.

The first rope departs, and on approaching the barriers, they need to overcome an ice wall. The ice wall ends at the top with a rock belt covered in ice. The rocks are steep. Climbing is very difficult. Crampons hold poorly because the ice is hard.

We reach under the ice barrier. The tactics for passing the barrier are as follows. The lead rope, taking with them three ropes, ice pitons, ladders, and ice axes, begins to work on the barrier, leaving their backpacks at its base. Only after the lead rope has passed the first rope on the barrier does the second rope begin to move, having observed the situation until then. Climbing the barrier begins with climbing in crampons on a partner. Standing on a partner's shoulders, the first climber begins to move along the overhanging ice wall towards an ice corridor at the top of the barrier, which was formed as a result of a large mass of ice collapsing directly from the central part of the hanging glacier.

The climbing is extremely difficult, using the entire arsenal of ice climbing techniques. During the passage of the first, most difficult 80 m of the barrier's base, it becomes clear that the ice is so hard that driving ice pitons is impossible; only ice screws are used.

Throughout the barrier, backpacks are hauled up. Ladders and loops are used. Finally, the barrier is passed, and we enter the ice corridor. Despite the great steepness, it's much easier here. We pass the ice corridor and exit under the 1st bergschrund. The barrier is taken! Yes, despite the significant experience of Bezengi ascents, none of us has ever climbed such ice walls before.

However, more time has been spent than planned, and fog is rolling in again. Oh, this weather!

We pass the 1st bergschrund already in the fog. Despite the upper edge of the bergschrund overhanging and being about 4 m high, it is passed quickly. Before us lies a snow slope bounded by avalanche gullies. In the breaks in the fog, the further path is visible. We move straight up towards the highest part of the 2nd bergschrund. On the snow, we insure ourselves through snow anchors. The snow gradually turns into ice. Again, ice screws. Already in complete fog, we enter the bergschrund. Yes, again the weather disrupts our plans. Processing the bergschrund and the ice slope above it is not possible today. Heavy snowfall, blizzard, but we are completely safe.

The bergschrund is enormous even by Bezengi standards. The overhanging ten-meter wall perfectly protects us from everything that falls from above. The bivouac is comfortable.

August 12. The weather is excellent in the morning. The Krainov-Melentyev rope departs to process the 2nd bergschrund and the ice slope leading to the base of the triangular wall.

The overhanging wall of the upper edge of the 2nd bergschrund is passed using ice screws and ladders. The exit to the ice slope was very difficult because it was blocked by a one-and-a-half-meter overhanging layer of heavily compacted snow.

Then, along the ice slope, in the direction of the middle part of the wall. Again, ice axes and ice screws come into play. Climbing is difficult because a 20-meter ice wall with ice accretion was encountered. We exit under the base of the triangular wall. Then, 35 meters of traverse along icy rocks to the right, and we see the path for further movement. Of course, it should go along the right part of the wall because the left part is swept by avalanches, and the central part starts from about a 100-meter internal angle, the passage of which is possible only with the use of pitons. This is not suitable for us.

All four ropes are fixed, and we descend to the bivouac. At night, there's a severe thunderstorm with a blizzard.

August 13. In the morning, it's overcast, but nothing is falling from the sky. About half a meter of snow fell overnight, but due to the great steepness of the route, it almost all slid down.

We depart. The ropes have to be dug out of the snow and, in some places, cut out of the ice. Nevertheless, we quickly pass the ropes installed yesterday, and Krainov begins to move further. Having passed along icy rocks on the left edge of the ice couloir, he reaches the right edge of the triangular wall and begins to move straight up along its center. Climbing is very difficult. Deviation from the route is impossible because it's limited on the left by a huge internal angle and on the right by an ice gully where the overnight snow continues to slide down. The rocks are slab-like, monolithic, covered with a thick layer of ice accretion. Ladders start to come into play.

Having passed three ropes, Krainov lets Blankovsky go ahead. Backpacks were abandoned long ago, and the wall becomes even steeper. The right edge of the triangular wall has a northeast exposure, so its icing is even more severe than on other sections of the North face of Western Shkhara.

Climbing becomes extremely difficult, and a thunderstorm with snowfall starts. We're hit by streams of snow grains that slide down unchecked. The entire wall is in waterfalls, or rather, "snowfalls." The sight is fantastic. Everything is flowing.

Nevertheless, we're forced to continue moving because there's not even a hint of a ledge. Overhang. Insurance is sometimes from ladders.

After a couple of hours, the snow stops falling. We continue to climb. We've already passed 6 ropes (not counting those processed yesterday), it's getting towards evening, and there's still no place for a bivouac.

Krainov goes ahead again. He passes a rope, overcoming a very complex ice chimney along the way, and at 19:00 reaches a semblance of a ledge where we hoped to organize a lying bivouac. But only four people can barely fit on it.

At 20:00, the bivouac is ready. The tent hangs on a perlon double rope. We're hanging on it too. Our feet are in stirrups, and our chins and hands are on a second perlon rope. One consolation is that above us is a huge overhanging rock that protects us from everything.

The night passes in a semi-daze. We're constantly sliding down because we're sitting on icy rocks, and everything under you is sliding. We've decided to call this bivouac the "sliding bivouac."

There's another strong thunderstorm at night, with snowfall. Yes, the weather is not treating us kindly.

August 14. We get up before dawn. We try to warm our boots because they froze right on our feet. It's very cold. We feel that the "roof" of the triangular wall is nearby, but the exit to it on the left is blocked by an overhanging rock, and movement is possible only on the right along a very steep ice couloir.

We start working. Backpacks hang on pitons. Again, ladders are used because the front teeth of crampons almost don't hold. The ice is extremely hard. Additionally, the chimney is closed by a garland of huge icicles.

The lead goes to the right and, having passed a very complex 8-meter rock wall, reaches the "roof" of the triangular wall.

Well, it turns out that our bivouac spot is the only place on the wall suitable for a bivouac for four people, although it's a hanging one. After passing the triangular wall, the entire group experiences a certain emotional uplift, which greatly facilitates further movement, especially since we see the desired ridge of the Bezengi Wall and the summit of Western Shkhara. If the weather doesn't fail us, we should be able to reach the ridge today.

We work easily and quickly haul up backpacks, now moving in independent ropes. The first rope leaves pitons for the second. The route is extremely clear.

Along the ice slope, straight up to the snow-ice counterfort, along which we move towards the black wall blocking the exit to the snow-ice ridge leading to the Bezengi Wall.

After the triangular wall and the ice barrier, all sections seem simple. But in the end, the wall has prepared a small surprise for us — an 80-meter rock counterfort with an average steepness of 85°. We have to use all our skill to pass it.

From this counterfort, along a simple snow-ice ridge (with very loose snow), we exit under the cornices of the Bezengi Wall. The weather is noticeably deteriorating. The wind is so strong that it's hard to stand on our feet. We bypass the cornices on the left and, having driven two ice axes into the ridge, cross over to the southern side of the Bezengi Wall. That's it! The wall is passed!

After three ropes, at 14:30, we were on the summit. The wind was so strong that we had to crawl on all fours in some places. We don't linger on the summit and begin our descent along the West ridge of Western Shkhara towards the famous peak Shkhara. The weather has completely deteriorated.

Having found the first suitable place for a bivouac and with great difficulty cutting out a cornice and preparing a platform, we install the tent. The wind is so strong that we're forced to double all the guy lines with a main rope fixed on ice screws and rock pitons.

The night passed restlessly.

August 15. The weather is excellent. The wind has somewhat subsided. We move at a very good pace through peak Shkhara and, bypassing peak Shota Rustaveli, traverse the snow fields leading to the SE ridge of V. Jangi-Tau. We immediately begin our descent.

At 21:00 on August 15, we arrive at the Janghi-kosh hut, having completed one of the most problematic routes not only in Bezengi but also in the Caucasus.

Route Assessment and Group Actions

The route is combined (length of ice sections 795 m, rock sections 800 m, snow sections 400 m). There is a lot of ice accretion on the route.

The length, steepness, and condition of the most complex sections of the route, in our opinion, justify assessing it as a route of 6B category of difficulty. Comparison with routes of 5B and 6B categories of difficulty climbed by group members before this ascent confirms this conclusion. The route is logical and safe compared to other possible routes to the North face of Western Shkhara.

The actions of the participants on the route and their versatile preparation allowed them to successfully complete the route quickly and with a significant margin of safety. This is, in our view, one of the most complex routes in the Caucasus.

All participants worked as lead climbers on the route. The most complex snow, ice, and rock sections were climbed by three out of four team members:

• Blankovsky A.K.
• Krainov I.P.
• Melentyev V.I.

Levin A.S., working mostly last, performed a huge amount of work and to a greater extent contributed to the success of the ascent.