4310 — Gestola, NE ridge, traverse, 4A cat. Route of ascent to the top. Gestola through Mt. Lyalver.
- Red dashed line — ascent route
- 4A route is indicated by a blue dashed line
- A possible emergency descent route, unclassified route, is indicated by a black dashed line
- Green labels — overnight stays
4 — Chyornye Osypi (Black Talus) stop.
1. Ascent to Gestola peak via Lyalver.
Gestola peak (4850 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge, in the Bezengi Wall.
The ascent to Gestola via Lyalver is classified as 3B cat. difficulty.
The route is mainly snowy.
Route description.
Day 1.
From the "Bezengi" alpine camp, the path goes up along the trail, along the right (orographically) moraine of the Bezengi glacier to Misses-Kosh. At the southern end of the Misses-Kosh clearing, descend to the glacier and cross it diagonally, exiting to the left-bank moraine.
Further movement:
- along the moraine to the lake;
- passing the lake, turn right;
- ascend the steep talus slopes of Kel-Bashi.
Approximately to the west, keeping direction towards the saddle in the ridge connecting Salynan-Bashi and Kel-Bashi. A bivouac is set up on this saddle. The journey from the "Bezengi" camp takes approximately 8 hours.
Day 2.
From the bivouac, descend to a small glacier and cross it, slightly deviating to the left along its course. Then cross the ridge bounding this glacier from the west and exit to the Tsanner Plateau of the northwestern branch of the Bezengi glacier.
The ascent to the N. Tsanner pass, north of the plateau, is made along a snowy slope. From here, the path to Lyalver begins. It passes along a snowy depression to the right of the ridge descending from the peak's rocks to the glacier. At the end of the ascent, easy rocks lead to the summit.
The descent from Lyalver and the ascent to Gestola occur along the ridge connecting both peaks.
When moving, one should stick to the right side of the ridge, but not too far to the right. The first ascent of the ridge with rocks is bypassed on the left, without exiting onto the rocks. The second steep ascent (the so-called Nameless peak) is overcome head-on. There is a snowy depression behind it. Here, it is advisable to set up a bivouac.
Day 3.
From the bivouac, depart lightly. The ascent goes along steep snow to Gestola's shoulder. Then follow:
- Traverse the slope to the right — upwards, exiting to the bergschrund
- Cross the bergschrund at its southern edge
- Continue along the snowy ridge and easy rocks to the summit from the south
The cairn is located in the rocks on the southern side, below the summit. The descent from Gestola is made along the ascent route. In the snowy depression, the bivouac is dismantled, and the group continues through Lyalver. On the same day, it is possible to reach the N. Tsanner pass, where a bivouac is organized.