For the championship of the Central Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society in the category of technically complex ascents.

DALAR PEAK

via the western wall

Team of the Spartak CS DSS Alpine Camp "Uzunkol"

St. Petersburg Championship in mountaineering 2009

Report

UTS FASIL St. Petersburg team on the ascent of Dalar peak via Tramontana route (northern buttress of the northern shoulder), first ascent.

Table of Contents

Contents

Route Passport Map of the area with the group's path Brief overview of the area and the ascent object Photograph of the summit with route lines

St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship 2020 (high-altitude technical class) Report on the ascent to Dalar peak (3979 m) via the north buttress of the north shoulder (Tramontana), category 5A. The route was completed by the team of the Alpine Federation of St. Petersburg. St. Petersburg 2020

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, from Nakhar Pass to Chiperezaou Pass. Section No. 2.3 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Dalar peak (3979 m), via the north buttress of the north shoulder (Tramontana).
3. Category of complexity — 5A.

EAAC Championship in the Rock Category

Report

On the ascent of Dalar peak via the center of the NE wall of the East shoulder (first ascent) by the Combined team of Moscow region 2010

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, section according to KMGV-2.3.
2. Dalar peak (3988 m) via the center of the NE wall of the East shoulder.
3. Proposed first ascent of 5B category.
4. Route type — rock climbing.

1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, 2.3
2. Peak name: Dalar, North-Eastern edge
3. Category 5B complexity
4. Route type: combined
5. Elevation gain: 1000 m Route length: 1422 Section lengths:

• Category V complexity: 830
• Category VI complexity: 10 Average steepness:

Team Composition

The MGS DSO "Spartak" team was formed in 1961. During 1961-1963, team members completed a series of climbs up to category 5B difficulty. Already in 1963, the team considered it possible to participate in the All-Union team competitions in the class of technically complex ascents. In July 1963, the team completed part of the declared route, but an earthquake forced the group to return. They completed a route on East Dombay-Ulgen via the south wall, which took 1st place in Moscow. The team composition, as per the application submitted to the judging committee, was determined to be 10 people. As a result of training ascents, the following group composition was determined:

• Kavunenko V. D. — Master of Sports of the USSR — leader
• Shataev V. N. — 1st sports category
• Polyakov L. D. — 1st sports category
• Magomedov Kh. K. — 1st sports category

Dalar

up the North-East wall. Team of “Trud” Sports Society Team leader: Master of Sports of the USSR Snesarev A. A. Team captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Stepanov V. V. The summit of “Dalar”, view from the North

Brief sports characteristic of Dalar peak

The year of the beginning of the development of the Gvandra region, where the Dalar peak is located, should be considered 1936, but already in 1937 most of the peaks in this region were conquered.

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. DALAR via north-eastern edge (Stepanov's route)
4. Category 5B, combined
5. Height difference: 1200 m, length 1500 m, length of category 5-6 sections – 840 m. Average steepness of main sections 80° (3000–3900), including category 5 sections 85° (3400–3600, 3750–3900)
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 94/16, bolted –/–, "friends" 36/4, ice 7/–
7. Team's travel hours: 28 and days – 2
8. Overnights: 1 – on moraine on the right side of North Dalar glacier, 2 – on "sheep's foreheads" above the third belt (sitting), 3 – on Dalar pass.
9. Leader: Timoshenko V.N. – 1st sports category, participants: Shuralev S., Prasol I., Zheleznyak S. – 1st sports category

Dalar via NE wall, cat. 5B

I. Brief Geographical Description

The Dalar peak, with an elevation of 3981 meters above sea level, is located in the western part of the Central Uplift of the Main Ridge, southwest of the Elbrus peak (Gvandra area, Kichkinokol arch).

II. Sporting Characteristics of the Route and Its Exploration

Dalar is one of the most beautiful peaks in the Caucasus. The slightly northward-leaning rocky pyramid has long attracted the attention of mountaineers. The northeast wall, rising to almost 4000 meters, seemed particularly challenging yet interesting. The sporty exploration of the walls began in 1956 when a group led by N.M. Semenov first traversed the NE wall up to the base of the tower and then deviated left from the route onto the relatively simple eastern ridge. In 1962, a group from the "Trud" sports society, led by V.V. Stepanov, repeated this path (up to the tower) and then straightened it, deviating from the original route in the last upper part (ascending directly up the tower to the summit). See photo #1. In 1964, a group of Spartakovites led by V.D. Kavunenko followed Stepanov's path. Tactical Plan and Route Description to Dalar Peak via the Northeast Wall, Cat. 5B (Combined) Photo #1

Ascent Passport:

1. Ascent class: technical
2. West Caucasus, Uzunkol. 3rd ascent of Dalar (3979 m) via the northeastern ridge, V. Stepanov's route (1962)
3. Route category: 5B
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1000 m

• Route length: 1410 m, including 775 m of 5th category difficulty and 60 m of 6th category difficulty
• Average route slope: 68°

6. Pitons left on the route: 1 закладка (chock)