Fig. 52

3. Ascent to Maly Dombai-Ulgen peak via the northern ridge — category 4A (Fig. 52)

From Dombai clearing along the trail to the left of Chuchkhur waterfalls to Chuchkhur pass — bivouac. From Dombai clearing — 4–5 hours.

From the pass along несложным разрушенным скалам (protection!) to the red rocks. First along the northern ridge, then exit to the rocks of the northeastern ridge and along narrow ledges on the eastern side of the ridge — exit to a wide crevice with a three-meter plug. Through this crevice via the plug — to the first ascent.

Ascent to the first ascent:

• straight up,
• or bypass to the right along the snowpatch, then ascent along the couloir to the slabs (protection, piton!).

Then:

• along steep slabs to the second ascent (piton protection!),
• through the second ascent along steep slabs to the third ascent (piton protection!).

After descending from the third ascent — bivouac site.

Alternative exit to the saddle between the third and fourth ascents. From the pass, exit to the first ascent, second and third ascents are bypassed on the left along grassy ledges 100–120 m — and then exit to the saddle before the fourth ascent. The path is simpler, but dangerous because it's difficult to organize reliable protection on grassy ledges. This path is especially unreliable in bad weather!

Ascent to the fourth ascent along a crevice with a plug (difficult spot!). The first climber goes without a backpack (piton protection!). Further along a несложному гребню to smooth rocks (protection!) to the "duck nose" жандарму. From it, 12 m rappel to the ridge and along rocks of medium difficulty to a steep (45–50°) ice-snow slope.

Up the slope to the western pre-summit ridge of Maly Dombai-Ulgen (thorough protection on the slope!) and along it to the summit.

From the fourth ascent — 5–6 hours.

Descent along the route of category 2A complexity.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac — Chuchkhur pass.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2×40 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2 m; c) rock pitons — 12–14; d) ice pitons — 6–7; e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 10–12; g) crampons — 4 pairs.
5. Possible bivouac sites: 1st — before the fourth ascent; 2nd — before the snow-rock ridge; 3rd — on descent from the summit along the route of category 2B complexity; 4th — on the snow-rock ridge.