Fig. 53

3. Traverse of the Dottakh-kaya — Bu-Ulgen massif (see Fig. 53–56)

From Dombayskaya polyana to the Northern shelter by car. From the Northern shelter, across the river Khokel via a log, to Chotcha polyana - bivouac. From the Northern shelter, 1 hour.

From the bivouac, crossing the Chotcha gorge, to the right and further along the snows of avalanche depositions, approach to the first couloir on the slope of the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya.

Through the couloir, exit to the "ram's foreheads" and further ascent to the eastern ridge descending towards the Northern shelter. Without reaching the ridge, traverse left into the cirque of a small glacier.

Along the snowy slope of the cirque, diagonally upwards to a rocky outcrop, bypass the outcrop on the left and along a steep snowslope (belay!) - exit to the ridge.

Then along the ridge and, bypassing a rocky outcrop on the left via a ledge, - exit to the saddle between the main ridge of Dottakh-kaya and the rocky outcrop.

From the saddle, along the main ridge (steep rocks of medium difficulty, belay through outcrops, partly piton!) - exit to the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya.

Further path to the Western peak of Dottakh-kaya is described in the traverse description of Dottakh-kaya.

Descent from the Western peak of Dottakh-kaya to the saddle towards Maly Bu-Ulgen peak:

• From the Western peak, along a steep ridge, 90 m rappel to a gendarme;
• From the gendarme, left onto the wall and along an inner corner, 30 m rappel to a ledge;
• Then 150 m rappel (to individual ledges) and exit to a green ledge;
• Along the green ledge to the right and behind an overhanging chimney - exit to the saddle-bivouac.

From the bivouac before the Western peak of Dottakh-kaya, 9–10 hours.

Ascent from the saddle to the ridge of Maly Bu-Ulgen is done along a wall with a slope of 70 - partly 85° (rocks, mainly monolithic, few footholds; only in the upper part of the wall are loose stones; belay during ascent, mainly piton!).

From the saddle, ascent initially through a 45–50-meter crack in the lower part via a fissure, then along a narrow inclined ledge to the right - upwards to a platform (first without a backpack; belay only via pitons!).

From the platform:

• 300–320 m upwards to a snowslope (belay via pitons!);
• Under the snowslope, left 35–40 m and exit to black rocks;
• Along the black rocks, 150–170 m upwards-to the right (belay through outcrops, partly piton! Loose stones!).

Exit to the eastern ridge of Maly Bu-Ulgen peak. Along the sharp ridge, left 60–70 m, then descent from the ridge 15–20 m and along the right side of the ridge - exit to the saddle between Maly and Bolshoy Bu-Ulgen peaks - bivouac. From the saddle of Dottakh-kaya, 11–12 hours.

Further path is described in the traverse description of Bolshoy Bu-Ulgen from north to southeast - cat. diff. 4B.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group - not more than 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac - Chotcha polyana.
3. Departure time from bivouac - 4:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2×40 m; b) expendable reepschnur - 12–15 m; c) rock pitons - 20; d) ice pitons - 2–3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers - 2; f) carabiners - 12–14; g) crampons - 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations: 1st - on the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya; 2nd - behind a deep saddle; 3rd - before the Western peak of Dottakh-kaya; 4th - in the saddle between Maly Bu-Ulgen and Dottakh-kaya; 5th - on the saddle between Maly and Bolshoy Bu-Ulgen. Further see the description of the traverse of Bolshoy Bu-Ulgen - 4B cat. diff.