St. Petersburg Alpinism Championship. Category — High-Altitude Technical 2024

Report on the Ascent to Dalar Peak (3988 m) via the Northeast Ridge (V. Stepanov Route, 1962), 5B Category of Difficulty, Combined Terrain

The route was completed by the team from the Alpine Club of St. Petersburg, "OGK" association. Team Captain: A.V. Kichurchak.

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1	Leader's Full Name, Sports Rank	Andrey Vladimirovich Kichurchak, 1st sports rank

Dalar

via the north wall of the bastion with exit to the summit along the eastern edge Team of MGS "SPARTAK" Coach and head MS USSR Kavunenko V.D.

Reconnaissance of the wall

The first acquaintance with the wall took place through photographs from different sides and detailed consultations. However, this allowed only a general impression to be formed. Therefore, one of the very important tasks was a detailed study of the wall. The first reconnaissance exit to the wall took place on June 15, 1964. The wall of the bastion is composed of gray granites, with an average steepness of 75°, and the wall's length is about 500 m. The first observations showed:

• Passing the wall directly along the corner would require a lot of piton work (150–200 m) without a combination with free climbing.
• A few tens of meters to the east (40–60 m), a logical exit was noted along a crack going vertically upwards to the upper part of the bastion, where a combination of free climbing with the need to use artificial support points is possible. From the upper part of the bastion to the eastern ridge of the pre-summit tower of Dalar leads a single snow-ice ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Gvandra region
3. Peak Dalar, 3979 m
4. Route — via the left part of the north-eastern wall of the bastion, first ascent, proposed 6A category of difficulty
5. Route elevation gain — 1430 m, route length — 1740 m, average slope — 68°, bastion wall elevation gain — 760 m, bastion wall length — 780 m, average slope — 80°. section lengths
   • category 5 — 800 m
   • category 6 — 320 m

TO THE MAIN JUDICIAL COMMISSION OF THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR Report on the ascent to the summit of Dalar via the northeastern wall with an exit to the summit tower via the northern edge, as entered in the 1969 USSR Alpine Championship by the team from the Leningrad Mountain Sports Committee.

Team captain and ascent leader — B. KORABLIN

Leningrad, 1969 Northeastern wall of Dalar peak. Due to various reasons, STEPANOV V.V. and CHERNOSLIVIN Yu.I. were unable to travel to the Caucasus this year, and therefore they did not join the assault group. KORSHUNOV D.M. could not be replaced at the time the team started the ascent (he was working as an instructor), and VELIKANOV V.P. was included in the main team.

27

USSR Climbing Federation

XXXIV USSR Climbing Championship, Rock Climbing Category

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Western Caucasus, from Nakhar pass to Chipperaza pass 3. Mt. Dalar, right part of the North Face (V. Shopin route) 4. Category 5B difficulty, third ascent 5. Route elevation gain — 760 m, route length — 1060 m, wall elevation gain — 500 m, wall length — 640 m, length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty — 370+280=650 m. Average steepness of the wall — 70° (3270–3720 m) 6. Pitons driven: rock bolt anchors 149/24 (0+7)/(–87/11) 7. Team's walking hours — 28 and days — 2. 8. Joint snow overnight stay.

Ascent Passport

I. Rock climbing category 2. Caucasus. From Nakhar pass to Chipperazau pass. 3. Dalar peak (3979 m) via the North-Eastern wall of the Eastern shoulder. 4. Difficulty category - 5B (third ascent of the route) 5. Route characteristics: height difference R0–R15 - 700 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 610 m, including 400 m on the shoulder wall R0–R12, average steepness of the shoulder wall R0–R12 - 81°. 6. Pitons hammered: for rock protection (including chocks) 99(35), for creating artificial support points 10(4), ice screws (on descent) - (4), bolt pitons - - 7. Total climbing hours - 23 hours 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: two good bivouacs in a tent.

CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE VOLGA AND URAL FEDERAL DISTRICTS IN ALPINISM TECHNICAL AND ALTITUDE CLASS

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT DALAR (3988 m) VIA THE NORTH-EAST FACE OF THE EASTERN SHOULDER, CATEGORY 5B COMPLEXITY (POROKHNI YU.I. ROUTE) BY THE TEAM FROM SAMARA REGION AND PERM TERRITORY FOR THE PERIOD FROM AUGUST 16 TO 17, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Zankina Daria Viktorovna, 1st sports rank

ST. PETERSBURG ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS HIGH-TECHNICAL CLASS 2024

Report on the ascent of Dalar peak (3988 m) via the North-Eastern wall of the Eastern shoulder (Yu. Porokhnya Route, 1978), 5B cat. diff., combined. July 29, 2024 – July 31, 2024.

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Danil A. Kadyrmaev, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, sports rank of participants	Mikhail D. Marakuev, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of coach, sports rank	O.A. Yakimenko MS, P.Yu. Fominykh CMS
1.4	Organization	St. Petersburg Alpine Federation, a/c "Gornyak", a/c "Voenmekh"

Ascent Certificate

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Region — Western Caucasus, Gvandra region.
3. Peak DALAR, 3979 m, via the north-eastern wall of the bastion.
4. Category of difficulty — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: total — 1200 m, bastion — 780 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 850 m, average steepness of the bastion — 76° (2780–3560 m), sections with 6 category difficulty — 85° (3010–3050 m).
6. Pitons hammered: | Type | Rock | Bolt | Chock | Ice | | :--------------- | :--- | :--- | :---- | :--- |