Fig. 41

2. Ascent to the summit of Yuzhny Dombay-Ulgen via the southern ridge with crossing Dombay and Ptysh passes — cat. 2B (see Fig. 40–42)

From Ptysh bivouac, up the moraine of Ptysh glacier (15–20 minutes) and left — towards Dombay pass. Ascend via the couloir (or its right side) and reach the eastern edge of Kruzhevoy glacier. Then:

• Ascend the snowy slope
• Ascend the wide couloir
• Traverse on the right side of the rocky ridge
• Reach Dombay pass — bivouac

From Dombay clearing 7–8 hours.

From Dombay pass (in teams) descend 30 m via the couloir (rockfall!). Then right-down along the glacier to a steep drop, traverse the drop from the left and then right-down to the end of the eastern spur of Yuzhny Dombay. Behind the spur right-up along the steep slope (40–45°) and right of the rocky ridge — reach the saddle on the southern ridge (rockfall hazard!). From the saddle left-up along the snowy slope 40–45 m, reach steep rocks and via ledges (rockfall, belay!) to the gentle part of the ridge. Then directly along the damaged ridge (belay!) to the drop. From the drop — ascend via the inner corner of the wall 4–5 m (hook!), reach the rocky ridge and from it along the snowy ridge to the summit. From Dombay pass 6–7 hours. Descent to the saddle along the ascent route takes 3–4 hours. Bivouac.

From the bivouac traverse left — down along the steep snowy slope (belay!) to the glacier and along it near the northwestern ridge to the red scree. Bivouac spot. Then left — down to the "baranьи лбы" (see Fig. 40), cross the stream left and along the grassy rocky ledges with hook belay (handrail) 60 m down to the platform. From the platform (hook belay!) left — down along the wide crevice, reach the inclined ledge and along it to the snowy slope.

Along the snowy slope right — down to the scree and then along the conical moraine right — up to the glacier under Ptysh pass. Ascend to the pass via ledges to the left "window" (belay!), traverse to the north and descend to Severo-Ptyshsky glacier. Along the glacier near the slopes of the northwestern ridge of Yuzhny Dombay-Ulgen right — down to "baranьи лбы" and then along the conical moraine to Ptysh bivouac. From the bivouac on red scree to Ptysh bivouac — 5–6 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac — Dombay pass.
3. Time of departure from bivouac — 4–5 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable reepschnur — 2 m; c) rocky hooks — 6–7; d) ice hooks — 2; e) rocky hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons — 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac spots: 1st — on the saddle; 2nd — on the right scree; 3rd — on Ptysh pass.

Ascent variant to Yuzhny Dombay-Ulgen via the northwestern ridge (Fig. 42). From red scree along the ledges right-up (belay!) to the northwestern ridge before the big gendarme. Further route is described in the ascent to Yuzhny Dombay-Ulgen from the north via the counterforce.

From the bivouac near red scree to the summit 4–5 hours. Descent along the ascent route 3–4 hours.

Fig. 42