Open Championship of Sverdlovsk Region on Alpinism

Report on the ascent to the peak Bivachnaya 3700 m via "diagonals" of the Western wall, approximately 5B cat. diff., made by the team of Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the DSO "Burevestnik"

Team leader and coach Igolkin V.I. 1987 Chelyabinsk Regional Council DSO "Burevestnik" Address: 454080, Chelyabinsk, Lenina ave., 78 Chairman of the Regional Council - Deyneko Sergey Ivanovich, work tel. 39–91–01 (transformed into the sector of student sports of the Regional DLSO of Trade Unions) Team leader and coach Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich

Ascent passport

1. Ascent class - rock
2. Ascent area - Igizaki, Gissar ridge
3. Peak - Bivachnaya (northern) - 3800 m, via the Western wall through the cave.
4. Proposed difficulty category - 5A
5. Route characteristics: Elevation difference - 600 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. - 240 m, average steepness of the wall part - 75–80°
6. Equipment used: rock pitons for belay - 61 pcs., for artificial climbing holds (ACH) - 16 pcs., chocks for belay - 26 pcs., for ACH - 11 pcs., bolt pitons for belay - 2 pcs., for ACH - 3 pcs.
7. Total hours of climbing: approach from "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac - 1 h, ascent to the summit - 18 h, descent from the summit to "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac - 1 h 30 min.
8. Possible overnight camping sites:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Igizaki, Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak — Bivachnaya (north) — 3800 m, via the cleft on the Western wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 60–70 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65°
6. Pitons driven:

ASCENT LOG.

5.2.12

Climbing category — technical. Climbing area — Gissar Ridge, Igizak area. Peak, its height, route — p. Bivachnaya, 3400–3320 m, via the West face. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 115 m, average steepness — 57°. Pitons hammered in:

• rock — 92
• ice —

¹

Route Description

From the "green meadow" bivouac, go upstream along the Igizak stream, approach the right

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Pamir-Alay, Hissar Range (section 5.2)
2. Peak: Bivachnaya Gissarskaya, 3700 m via the right part of the West Wall
3. Proposed difficulty category: 4A category route
4. Route type: Rock
5. Elevation gain: 400 m Route length: 850 m, including 110 m of 4th category difficulty sections. Average steepness of the main part of the route (R0–R8) is 68°. Average steepness of the entire route is 50°
6. "Kruch" left on the route: total — — including piton anchors
7. Team's travel time: 9 hours 30 minutes, 1 day*

The ascent class is technical. The ascent area is the Gissar Ridge, Igizak area. 3700 m. No. 10. Peak, its height, route - p. "Bivachnaya" 3320 m via the Southwest wall. Proposed difficulty category - 2B. Route characteristics:

• height difference - 300 m;
• average steepness - 50°. Driven pitons: rock - 16. Number of walking hours: - 7.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — technically challenging. 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge, Igizak area. 3. Ascent route — North ridge of Bivachnaya peak. 4. Ascent description: Height difference — 500 m Average slope — 35°–40° Length of complex section — 60 m Slope of complex section — 60°–75° 5. Pitons driven:

Ascent to the summit of BIVACHNAYA via S.–E. ridge, cat. 1B The ascent to the summit starts from the "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac located below the summit of Bivachnaya. From the camp, follow the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsai, Ular, Khyrsa, and Kulay Djovanon up to the old moraine of the glacier, bypassing the north-eastern and eastern slopes of Bivachnaya. Then, start ascending to the right up the grassy and talus slopes towards the S.–E. ridge of the summit. To the left of the summit remains a saddle on the southern ridge leading to Kulay Djovanon. When ascending the lower and middle parts of the ridge, move to the left of the ridge, leaving rocks to the right. Small rocky ridges also protrude to the left. Continuing the ascent to the left of the ridge, approach the walls descending from the ridge. To the right of the walls, there is a shoulder on the ridge that you should aim for. From here, further movement is along the ridge rocks. The rocks are of moderate difficulty with diverse relief forms. Protection is alternating through rock projections. The final ascent to the summit is via easy rocks. Early in the season, there may be snow and cornices to the right, towards the north-east. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route back to the "Zelyonaya polyana" valley.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants: 6–8 people

5. Белая Пирамида from the south-eastern cirque, route 2А cat. diff., fig. 3.

(— 1954)

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the Восточный ледник Белой Пирамиды glacier, move onto the glacier and head towards the base of the snow "tie" descending from the large pre-summit plateau of Белая Пирамида. By the end of summer, ice is possible. Overcome the bergschrund in the lower section and ascend to the snow plateau via a couloir alongside the rocks. The steepness of the couloir increases to 45° in its upper part. After reaching the plateau, it's better to stay close to the rocks and talus protruding from under the snow on the right. Ascend to the eastern ridge using these, where easy rocks are encountered in the upper part before the summit. From the Eastern summit, traverse to the Western summit via a snow ridge. The ascent to the Western summit is via a steep snow slope. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. In case of poor snow conditions in the couloir, a descent from the Eastern summit to the south towards Стажёрский pass is possible. In this case:

• From the summit, descend left of the southern ridge onto the plateau.
• Then follow the ridge to the pass.
• Descend from the pass onto the Восточный ледник Белой Пирамиды glacier.