Ascent to the summit of BIVACHNAYA via S.–E. ridge, cat. 1B
The ascent to the summit starts from the "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac located below the summit of Bivachnaya. From the camp, follow the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsai, Ular, Khyrsa, and Kulay Djovanon up to the old moraine of the glacier, bypassing the north-eastern and eastern slopes of Bivachnaya.
Then, start ascending to the right up the grassy and talus slopes towards the S.–E. ridge of the summit. To the left of the summit remains a saddle on the southern ridge leading to Kulay Djovanon.
When ascending the lower and middle parts of the ridge, move to the left of the ridge, leaving rocks to the right. Small rocky ridges also protrude to the left.
Continuing the ascent to the left of the ridge, approach the walls descending from the ridge. To the right of the walls, there is a shoulder on the ridge that you should aim for. From here, further movement is along the ridge rocks. The rocks are of moderate difficulty with diverse relief forms. Protection is alternating through rock projections.
The final ascent to the summit is via easy rocks. Early in the season, there may be snow and cornices to the right, towards the north-east.
The descent from the summit follows the ascent route back to the "Zelyonaya polyana" valley.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants: 6–8 people
- Initial bivouac: "Zelyonaya polyana"
- Departure time: not later than 6:00
- Equipment for a group of 6: rock pitons — 2 pcs., hammer — 1 pc., carabiners — 2 pcs., main ropes 3 × 30 m.
Time calculation
"Zelyonaya polyana" — moraine — 1 h Ascent to the summit — 3 h Descent from the summit to "Zelyonaya polyana" — 2 h
Total 6 h
Bivachnaya from S–E
