ASCENT LOG.

5.2.12

Climbing category — technical.

Climbing area — Gissar Ridge, Igizak area. Peak, its height, route — p. Bivachnaya, 3400–3320 m, via the West face. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 115 m, average steepness — 57°.

Pitons hammered in:

• rock — 92
• ice —
• bolt — Number of travel hours — 10 hours. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — none. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

1. Kozlov Pavel Vladimirovich — leader, 1st sports category.
2. Belyntsev Vyacheslav Timofeevich — participant, 1st sports category.
3. Solovyev Mikhail Alexandrovich — participant, 1st sports category.
4. Kraynov Viktor Vadimovich — participant, 1st sports category.

Team coach — Sogrin Sergey Nikolaevich — Master of Sports. Date of departure to the route and return — May 8, 1976.

Approach to the route

From the "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac, go upstream along the stream flowing from the cirque of the peak Bolshoy Igizak. At the mouth of the cirque, start traversing left along the snowy, and in summer — scree slope, with a simultaneous ascent to the western walls of the peak Bivachnaya. A characteristic landmark for the start of the route is a wide black vein of rocks cutting through the wall from right to left — upwards. The route begins several meters to the left of the lower boundary of the black vein and the main rocks forming the wall. The approach to the start of the route from the "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac takes about one and a half hours.

Brief explanation of the table

Section R0–R1. From the snowfield, through a cleft in the wall, several meters to the left of the contact between the light-colored rocks of the wall and the black vein, upwards 40 m (steepness 60°) to a small ledge.

Section R1–R2. From the ledge, along steep, smooth rocks with few holds and small, shallow cracks, 40 m upwards, bypassing large cornices on the right.

Section R2–R3. Along the lower boundary of the black rocks, two ropes (steepness 80°) of moderate difficulty climbing. Cracks are thin and shallow.

Section R3–R4. From the black rocks, left and upwards, crossing the wall to a wide cleft, 55 m of difficult climbing.

Section R4–R5. Along the wide cleft, going straight up, on wet, smooth rocks 90 m to the contact between light and black rocks. Steepness 65°.

Section R5–R6. Along the internal angle formed by light and black rocks, 30 m of difficult climbing. The right face of the internal angle slightly overhangs.

Section R6–R7. The internal angle becomes less pronounced, the rocks acquire a blocky structure: 45 m, 60°, climbing of moderate difficulty.

Section R7–R8. The internal angle turns into a chimney, with a steepness of 90°. The chimney walls are smooth, climbing is difficult. Total of about 30 m.

Section R8–R9. The chimney leads to wide, scree-covered ledges, along them straight up to a not clearly defined ridge on the left wall. On the ledges, there are many "live" stones, movement is simultaneous. Total of about 100 m at a steepness of 30°.

Section R9–R10. Along the ridge, bypassing a hanging block on the left, 75 m of moderate difficulty climbing to scree with the right (along the route) side.

Section R10–R11. Along the scree straight up to a saddle 45 m. Protection is via pitons and rock features. In some places, there are icy rocks.

Section R11–R12. From the saddle, along easy rocks of the summit ridge 200 m to the summit.

Descent from the summit to the east via a route of 1B category of difficulty. Descent to "Zelyonaya polyana" takes about 1 hour.

Table of main characteristics of the route to peak Bivachnaya via the West face — 4B category of difficulty:

PROFILE OF THE ROUTE TO P. BIVACHNAYA