Mramornaya Western, 4430 m, via the north-northeast face — first ascent Group from the "Alai" alpine camp:

• CHOCHIA Pavel Antonovich, Candidate Master of Sports, instructor
• GORDEEV Ivan Mikhailovich, Candidate Master of Sports, instructor
• RODIKOV Anatoly Petrovich, 1st sports category
• SAKHAROV Vladimir Nikolaevich, Candidate Master of Sports
• FRIZYUK Nelli Zakharovna, Candidate Master of Sports, instructor
• KHASKIN Vladimir Yakovlevich, 1st sports category Coach: KAVUNENKO Vladimir Dmitrievich, Master of Sports of the USSR Kyrgyz SSR, 1979

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: Southern spurs of the Alay mountain range, Kok-Su valley.
3. Peak Ossonaly, 4855 m, north face. (Peak height by altimeter 4807 m.)
4. Estimated difficulty category 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1005 m (by altimeter); length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 425 m; 6th cat. diff. — 105 m; average steepness — 65°.
6. Pitons driven for belaying: rock — 171; ice — 15.
7. Number of travel hours — 42.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: three overnight stays on artificial platforms laid on rock ledges; two overnight stays — for resting lying down, and one — for resting half-reclining.

Report

On the second ascent to the summit of Ossonali, 4855 m, category 5B, Alai ridge, Kok-Su gorge: by a team from the Odessa regional council of the "Avangard" sports society, as a duo. July 9-11, 1978 General view of the summit.

Map scheme of the Alai ridge (Kok-Su area)

Table of main route characteristics.

PASSPORT

Ascent to v.Yu.Ossonoli (4685 m)

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Southern spurs of the Alay ridge, Kok-Su valley.
3. Peak "4685" — the proposed name is South Ossonoli.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics. Height difference 4685–3910 = 775 m. Length of sections 5B cat. difficulty — 300 m, 6 cat. difficulty — 100 m. Average steepness — 60°.
6. Rock hooks hammered for belay — 78, for creating I.T.O. — 4. Ice and bolt hooks were not used.
7. Number of travel hours — 18.5.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, ridge — Pamir-Alai, southern spurs of the Alai ridge, Levin's glacier
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: 50 years of Uzbekistan, via the SE ridge, 4891 m
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections of category V difficulty — 430 m, average steepness — 40°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 49, ice — 3, bolted — none
7. Number of climbing hours — 11.5
8. Number of nights on the route: the route was completed without overnight stays, there are places on the route for organizing semi-reclined overnight stays
9. Full name of participants, their qualification:

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — southern spurs of the Alay mountain range, Levin'skaya Glacier.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 50 let Uzbekistana, 4650 m, via the "sickle" of the N–E wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B category, No. 453 dated February 28, 1978.
5. Route characteristics — rock climbing, height difference 850 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty 240 m, average steepness of the route 50°. Total length 1190 m.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial holds | | | For belaying | For creating artificial holds | | :---------- | :---- | :----------- | :----------------------------- | | rock | — | 88 | 4 |

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Alai Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 50 лет Узбекистана (50 Years of Uzbekistan), 4650 m, via the heart of the NW wall.
4. Difficulty category 5A.
5. Route characteristics — combined, height difference 850 m, length of 5th category sections 240 m, total 1190 m, average steepness 50°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • for belaying: rock — 85, ice — 3, bolted — none;
   • for creating initial points: rock — 10, ice — none, bolted — none.
7. Number of climbing hours — 25 hours.

Ascent Log

Ascents

Ascent category — technically challenging Ascent area — southern spurs of the Alay Ridge, Lenin Peak area Ascent route — center of the northeastern wall of Peak 50 Years of Uzbekistan, elevation 4650 m Ascent characteristics:

• Wall height difference — 1012 m
• Average steepness — 72°
• Length of main sections:
  • 4th difficulty category — 48 m

REPORT

Salt Route

On the ascent of Peak 4770 m via the East Ridge, category 3A complexity (ориентировочно). First ascent. Leader: Simakov N.V.

Brief description of the approach to the route

The base camp is located in the Koksu gorge, at the confluence of the Koksu and Koshkasu rivers, on the Koshdeba clearing. From the base camp:

• go up the Koshkasu river along the left bank (1 hour);
• then go along the dry stream bed (the western ridge of Peak 4770 m remains on the left side), which continues along the moraine (1.5 hours). The route begins at the base of the scree couloir descending from the East Ridge of Peak 4770 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Adai-Khoh ridge, Kozhu tract area, Koshkasu river area (canyon)
3. Peak, height, and ascent route — p. 4770 via Eastern ridge
4. Expected difficulty category — 3 × (difficulty 2A)
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, average steepness — 35°, section lengths — 1st category / ice 400 m, 2nd category / technical 390 m, 3rd category/technical 60 m, 4th category/technical 33 m
6. Pitons used: for belaying, for hooking, etc. — rock 3, ice screw pitons